Mauser build 338-06 or 338 Win mag

RBlevins

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I have a 1908 Mauser action that I'd like to build my next rifle on. I have about one of everything but what I do not have in the safe is any 338 cartridge. I'm between a 338-06, 338-06AI or opening it up and going with the 338 Win Mag, I plan on this being my "Alaskan" rifle. What's the pros and cons and your thoughts? and I will be reloading either of this so factory ammo isn't a huge concern.
 
In my experience you may want to make sure you have an action that can take 338wm pressures... I'm not sure if an 08 (small ring?) is in that category. The 338-06 (AI?) is a great cartridge but even that may be pushing it, although should be close to the 8mm Mauser
 
Mixed thoughts here. While personally, I like my 338WM's, my brother was a die hard 338-06 guy. Both worked well at shorter ranges, but I always liked the velocity edge my 338WM had over his for the longer shots. Though, the 338-06AI version does intrigue.
 
My very first build when I learned gunsmithing was a Mauser '98 switch barrel. It is a Brno VZ24 action in 257AI & 338-06, both barrels being 24".
I absolutely adore my Mauser, and either cartridge, but for our large Sambar deer, the 338-06 with 210g Partitions gets the nod most of the time.
I thought about a 338-06AI, but didn't see much difference in capacity, so kept it standard. Totally up to you which one you choose, but the dies for the AI version were quite a bit more expensive.

Cheers.
 
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I have a 1908 Mauser action that I'd like to build my next rifle on. I have about one of everything but what I do not have in the safe is any 338 cartridge. I'm between a 338-06, 338-06AI or opening it up and going with the 338 Win Mag, I plan on this being my "Alaskan" rifle. What's the pros and cons and your thoughts? and I will be reloading either of this so factory ammo isn't a huge concern.
The cost difference between the .338-06/AI die might be a wash to the cost of opening up the bolt head to accommodate the .338 WM. As @MagnumManiac noted, it is a personal choice. My choice would be the .338 WM. Good luck!
 
@FEENIX, the cost of going from 3.25" mag length to 3.4" on a Mauser '98 is another consideration if you want to go 338WM, the bolt face, feed rails and bolt stop/ejector all need alteration to feed the 338WM case correctly.
Another reason to stick with the 338-06/AI.

Cheers.
Good point, Tony! If OP is willing and able to absorb the additional cost, the .338 WSM (dies are pricey) resolves the COAL/mag length issue. As you noted, the .338-06 AI is the most cost-effective conversion.
 
Good point, Tony! If OP is willing and able to absorb the additional cost, the .338 WSM (dies are pricey) resolves the COAL/mag length issue. As you noted, the .338-06 AI is the most cost-effective conversion.
I was leaning towards a 338-06 any way due to less work, I'm the gunsmith who will be doing the work to my own gun, was just kind of looking for that extra assurance that I didn't need to go up to a Win Mag.
I looked at a 338 WSM before when I built my 358WSM. The 358WSM has given me great results thus far and is more reason I probably don't need any 338 cartridge other than I want one. ;)
 
I was leaning towards a 338-06 any way due to less work, I'm the gunsmith who will be doing the work to my own gun, was just kind of looking for that extra assurance that I didn't need to go up to a Win Mag.
I looked at a 338 WSM before when I built my 358WSM. The 358WSM has given me great results thus far and is more reason I probably don't need any 338 cartridge other than I want one. ;)
LOL! Often, that want is the driving factor. I have a Kimber 84L in .30-06 that I could have left alone, but I wanted to AI it because I already have a -06. However, I ended up re-chambering it to .30 Gibbs because I wanted it. Good luck!
 
I was planning to buy a Husqvarna Mauser 98 in 30-06 rebarrel it to a 338 RPM Weatherby.
No hassel fire forming brass(you can buy once fired brass from Weatherby for $1. each + shipping.
I came to my senses when I realized I don't need a 338 !
 
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