Thescandinavian
Well-Known Member
Would not do?
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Mark V truing.
- Thread starter Thescandinavian
- Start date
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Darktimber
Well-Known Member
Lol ive been trying to figure this out for a while.
Thescandinavian
Well-Known Member
Do what? Turn it around in the lathe you mean? I turn the bolt in all kinds of directions whenever I take it out. I'm not referring to metal removing. Get it straight and then use a gauge on the bolt face while turning it to see if there is any deflection. If it's close to zero I probably need spend more time on the guy pulling the trigger than shipping the gun back and forth. Hunting starts in September and last until late December so I won't take it apart anyways until the season is over.
Thescandinavian
Well-Known Member
An fiberglass stock of unknown origin. Was on when I bought it.
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
Any chance of a picture to help ID it?
If it's fiberglass, and not plastic, you could still bed the rifle to the stock and improve it.
The bolt is not the main concern for accuracy the main concern is whether the receiver threads are concentric with the bolt raceway and if the front of the receiver is square once that is done you can check the bolt nose run out and the bolt face run out and then lap the lugs and check for bolt play and possibly have to sleeve the bolt
And then when installing a new barrel make sure your gunsmith knows how to time the barrel and make sure he cuts the chamber square to the bore
There is a lot that goes into making a very accurate hunting rifle
Don't take short cuts
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
JustMe2
Well-Known Member
Scandinavian you seem to be all over the place with your questions. First you talk about setting up your stock, then later you talk about bullet penetration, then whether the money is worth the effort for a hunting rifle. You sound very inexperienced.
Is it worth the effort?
What distance do you plan to shoot which determines what accuracy is required? Put some paper plates out in your hunting area every 100 yds. If you can't keep 3 out of 3 shots on the plate using your hunting positions, you've got 2 choices 1) limit your shooting distance to the plate all 3 shots are on the plate, 2) increase the accuracy of your rifle and your shooting techniques and do the plate test again.
Is it worth it? How much are you willing to pay to increase accuracy? If you're asking yourself that question, probably not worth the cost to you. See 1) above.
What bullet penetration do you need? What animals are you hunting, rabbits, deer, red stag, ??? Do some reading via google about bullet energy, bullet design and what is required for various game.
Is it worth the effort?
What distance do you plan to shoot which determines what accuracy is required? Put some paper plates out in your hunting area every 100 yds. If you can't keep 3 out of 3 shots on the plate using your hunting positions, you've got 2 choices 1) limit your shooting distance to the plate all 3 shots are on the plate, 2) increase the accuracy of your rifle and your shooting techniques and do the plate test again.
Is it worth it? How much are you willing to pay to increase accuracy? If you're asking yourself that question, probably not worth the cost to you. See 1) above.
What bullet penetration do you need? What animals are you hunting, rabbits, deer, red stag, ??? Do some reading via google about bullet energy, bullet design and what is required for various game.
Thescandinavian,
Owning many MK V's over the years and a few different actions sizes and calibers, the first thing I'd ask is; Are you having problems with it as it is?" if not, don't fix what's not broke. As I recall Weatherby's idea behind the 9 lugs; was more about safety it's extremely hard to get all 9 lugs locked up in an Mk V at the same time, the additional lugs (the ones not locked) were there in case one or more of the others failed, at least that's the way it was explained to me many years ago while talking to Weatherby. Good luck, Cheers.
I wouldn't touch it. I have 5 and they are excellent! My son's also have I each that I bought them....that makes 8
Have 3 Weatherby Mark V's. All purchased approximately 2005. Last one I worked on was a .240 WTH Lightweight. Bedded the action from rear tang forward to include first 2" of barrel. I reload but initially simply shot WTH factory loads. Rifle honestly shoots just under 1/2" 5 shot groups at 100 yds.........never started reloading for that rifle. Believe I would heed the advice of several of the above members and see what it will do. Might surprise you.
Thescandinavian
Well-Known Member
I can't remember bringing up penetration. I did mention expansion.
If a bullet won't open up and start expanding on a certain range there is no point in actually hitting any animal on that range either since the time for it to bleed out would be extended.
Ballistics of bullets, minimum velocity for expansion are two factors that make me question if it's really worth it. Is it really "going all over the place" to bring this variables into the equation?
The action has an lilja barrel and it has been bedded. I only skipped to have the action trued simply because there is no smiths here with experience in weatherbys
JustMe2
Well-Known Member
Expansion and penetration are inseparable.
Roeder
Active Member
Neck sizing only will not eliminate any problems and will likely cause some, especially in a magnum. A high quality full size die should be used every firing. I do not know of a single Benchrest competitor that neck sizes only in this day and age.
JustMe2
Well-Known Member
Be careful to measure your shoulder setback when using full size dies. Sometimes the setup instructions set the shoulder back too far causing brass separation. Shoulder should only be set back .0002-.0003. More is not better.
