M77 Mark 2 triggers

[Tgunz64]

Looking to upgrade my M77 Mark 2 trigger. So far the only options I can find are from Timney, Rifle Basix, and Jard. Anyone here use any of these in their Ruger? If do what did you think? I know Gimney is good but you have to grind away material from it to fit properly with the safety. If I screw it up then I'm out $150.

 

[Ross1147]

I have a timney on my m77 mark 2, I did have to grind a little off the safety to get it to fit. This was 10 years ago so maybe they've fixed that issue? Just go slow and check constantly. I didn't and probably took a little too much off. Safety still works, but trigger does move ever so slightly when on safety. It doesn't move enough to move the sear, but it's always in the back of my mind when I use it.

 

[Hugnot]

I have installed both Timney & Rifle Basix.

The Timney has both sear & trigger and as noted the contact point where the trigger contacts the Ruger rotating safety needs to be fit - best done with a small file vs. Dremel as the amount removed to assure a light touch fit can be slowly and surely done without grinding an excessive amount off. The Timney trigger can be adjusted for overtravel. A .050 Allen wrench is used to adjust trigger pull. I set mine at 2 pounds. The over-travel is adjusted with the Allen wrench then locked in place with a small hex nut. The Timney is either a right or left hand, like 2 triggers.

The Rifle Basix has only the trigger and uses the Ruger sear. The contact with the Ruger safety is done with an eccentric projection at the end of a small screw passing thru trigger. The screw is rotated until the eccentric projection/pin contacts the rotating safety then locked into place using a small hex nut. A larger, 5/64 Allen wrench is used for adjustments - easier. The Rifle Basix costs almost 1/2 as much as the Timney. Some fussing needs to be done to get the tiny little eccentric pin just touching rotating safety but when done it works. I cleaned up rifle & trigger with carb. cleaner & put a drop of blue loctite on the hex lock nut. The Rifle Basix may be used on either right or left handed actions.

Installation for either Timney or Rifle Basix might need some opening up of inside stock to assure adequate clearance, like nothing is jammed in.

 

[Tgunz64]

So both are good triggers and both need some tinkering. Just a little more with timney. Ok thanks for the info guys. I'll have to scratch my head some more and choose one.

 

[Mountain Sloth]

I wouldn't hesitate to put a Timney in a Ruger, for the M77 Mark II I actually ended up going with a different spring. It cost more for shipping than the spring actually cost but it was a major upgrade. A more cost effective route that is less money "wasted" if you don't like and end up going to an aftermarket trigger.

 

[Tgunz64]

I wouldn't hesitate to put a Timney in a Ruger, for the M77 Mark II I actually ended up going with a different spring. It cost more for shipping than the spring actually cost but it was a major upgrade. A more cost effective route that is less money "wasted" if you don't like and end up going to an aftermarket trigger.

Thanks. I'll look into that as well.

 

[Mountain Sloth]

Thanks. I'll look into that as well.

The spring was less than $10.00 and with shipping it was under $20.00, I believe it was the Ernie the Gunsmith spring

 

[std7mag]

My 3 Ruger 77 MKIIs have Wolfe Springs installed.
Light honing also helped.
Huge improvement!!

 

[MagnumManiac]

Looking to upgrade my M77 Mark 2 trigger. So far the only options I can find are from Timney, Rifle Basix, and Jard. Anyone here use any of these in their Ruger? If do what did you think? I know Gimney is good but you have to grind away material from it to fit properly with the safety. If I screw it up then I'm out $150.

All of my Rugers have had Timney's put in, but just be aware that they are grind to fit and do not drop in.

Easy to fit with careful grinding of the safety post.

Cheers.

 

[Hugnot]

I just stocked a Ruger M77 MKII with a stock that had been used on another M77 MKII. Upon closing the bolt the sear would not catch the striker. The problem was the inside of the stock pushed up against the trigger and prevented engagement of trigger & sear. A few strokes with a small wood rasp followed by a dab of stock finish fixed the problem. The same kind of situation is more likely to occur with the Timney trigger as the over travel adjustment projects further out from the trigger. This was a Ruger factory trigger that had been tuned up - engagement surfaces polished & squared up with light spring replacement, about 3 pounds

I won't grind parts that only need a small amount of removal. I have a set of diamond files that I use for this. They do a relatively quick clean job & produce a smooth flat surface. Select a replacement spring having the same length & diameter. Be aware of even a moderate amount of torque applied on an action bolt can generate 500 pounds of more compressive force.

Installation of the Rifle Basix trigger also requires some stock work.