looking to cheat the Nikon BDC reticle system.

Southernfryedyankee

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Lets say I buy a Nikon Monarch with the BDC reticle and I sight in for 200 yds for a magnum cartridge WITHOUT using much of the adjustments but just for sighting in at 200yds. The rings according to Nikon are 200 (crosshair) 300, 400, 500 and 600 yds for the magnums. Can I then use the remaining vertical adjustments to go past 600 yds utilizing the 600yd ring to get me to say 800-1000+ yds? If I can keep accurate click counts could this method work?

Nikon-bdc-reticle-Full.gif
 
Better than that, spend $75 and buy Exbal software with the reticle tool. It allows you to use the reticle tool, plug in a zero range and power setting to get drops at that power.

I took a 7mm 08 with 120 Btip at 3039 MV, zero'd at 200 and by changing power only I can with first bar below the center X from 280 to 354 and 4th bar from 591 to 909 yds.

I was using 6X, 8X and 14 X on my 4-14 with BDC.

BH
 
Better than that, spend $75 and buy Exbal software with the reticle tool. It allows you to use the reticle tool, plug in a zero range and power setting to get drops at that power.

I took a 7mm 08 with 120 Btip at 3039 MV, zero'd at 200 and by changing power only I can with first bar below the center X from 280 to 354 and 4th bar from 591 to 909 yds.

I was using 6X, 8X and 14 X on my 4-14 with BDC.

BH

But wont I be limited to a specific scope reticle.The bigest issue I was having was the scopes I like either didnt have the adjustment capability for the range I wanted or the reticles I liked were not offered. I didnt really understand tapered bases. I saw something awhile back on how one of the scope manufacturers BDC reticle was used by adjusting the power ring and it made sense but I think it had to stay within the parameters of the scopes range capability
 
Short answer is yes you will have to stay with the reticle you choose, but as long as it has any type of multiple aiming points such as the Burris BPlex, Swaro/Kahles TDS reticle, Nikon BDC, all you need is the distance in inches between the different aim points and you put that into the reticle tool. If you do not have the info in the instructions, simply call the company tech rep and ask for "distance in inches" between each aim point.

The exbal reticle tool lists max power and power blocks and you simply plug those in with zero and hit calculate and it will show you the distances of POI for each bar/aim point at that power. Go back in put in the new operationg power, calculate and write those POIs down.

Yes you will have to stay within the practical limits of the ranging and POIs for your respective scope, but lets be honest. If I can take a scope and have preset POIs to over 600-800, then that is great and will work.

Now as to your lack of knowledge on tapered bases. It is really quite simple.

If your scope has 60 MOA of elevation, that is from absolute bottom to top. If you are shooting a bullet that needs 30 MOA in elevation to go to 1000, then if your zero is the optical center of the scope, then you have only 30 MOA up and 30 MOA down.

Scopes almost always are off a MOA or two on the top and bottom one way or the other. The use of a tapered base (which is expressed in MOA) is to allow you to zero your rifle at 100 and have more MOA going up.

Lets say we used a 20 MOA tapered base which is the most common. In our example before, our 100 yd zefo theoretically would be 10 MOA from the bottom of the scope and still give us 50 MOA going up.

You can get 25 MOA, 30 and 40 MOA on tapered bases. Burris signature rings in 30 mm allow you to set 20 MOA in the rings with inserts and up to 40 MOA with the 1" rings.

Hope this helps.

BH
 
To expound on what Bountyhunter stated in his excellent explanation of tapered bases.
You can also use the Burris offset rings to sight in your scope so that it is optically centered . I had a 25-06 that the holes in the receiver were not drilled on center of the bore, and used up all my windage adjustment to get sighted in at 100 yards. Using the offset rings from Burris, I was able to bring the scope back on target and not use the windage adjustment up.
 
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