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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
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<blockquote data-quote="eshorebwhntr" data-source="post: 1287924" data-attributes="member: 17112"><p>A good annealing machine can be pricey for sure. There are also a lot of differing opinions out there on how much, how often, and how important it is to do.</p><p></p><p>The only times I do it are when I'm reloading for myself or friends and I'm using a hard variety of brass like Winchester, Federal, or Remington. Nosler or Norma I usually don't worry with it. I've also never done it to improve accuracy. I've actually never seen it effect accuracy in all the reloading I've done. Not saying it doesn't matter. I've just never seen it. I've annealed to prevent the brass from cracking at the shoulder/body junction, neck/shoulder junction. I've also annealed to aid in the fireforming process...my thinking being softer brass will form better to the chamber and also reduce the chance for cracking.</p><p></p><p>Also to be noted I don't own an expensive annealing machine. I use the handheld drill with a socket and torch method and I've had good luck.</p><p></p><p>I do use tempilaq. This helps in making sure you're doing things correctly. When you heat your brass necks/shoulders inevitably some heat will flow to the case head where you don't want to soften things. Basically heat the necks until they reach the annealing state (assumed to be around 650-700 for most brass) and then remove from the heat. Some think you need to place it in water. You can do that, but it's not necessary. Air cooling is fine. Paint 4-5 necks and place them in the flame while spinning them. Count how long it took you to get the temilaq to activate and change. Usually 4-6 seconds depending on the variables. Then repeat that process for the rest of your lot.</p><p></p><p>Uniformity and consistency is what you're going for.</p><p></p><p>I don't know if he's still around or offering the service but there use to be a guy on SnipersHide (before it switched hands back and forth) that for like $0.20-$0.30 a piece would wet stainless tumble clean your brass and anneal it. I'll have to see if I can find any info on that for you if you're interested.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eshorebwhntr, post: 1287924, member: 17112"] A good annealing machine can be pricey for sure. There are also a lot of differing opinions out there on how much, how often, and how important it is to do. The only times I do it are when I'm reloading for myself or friends and I'm using a hard variety of brass like Winchester, Federal, or Remington. Nosler or Norma I usually don't worry with it. I've also never done it to improve accuracy. I've actually never seen it effect accuracy in all the reloading I've done. Not saying it doesn't matter. I've just never seen it. I've annealed to prevent the brass from cracking at the shoulder/body junction, neck/shoulder junction. I've also annealed to aid in the fireforming process...my thinking being softer brass will form better to the chamber and also reduce the chance for cracking. Also to be noted I don't own an expensive annealing machine. I use the handheld drill with a socket and torch method and I've had good luck. I do use tempilaq. This helps in making sure you're doing things correctly. When you heat your brass necks/shoulders inevitably some heat will flow to the case head where you don't want to soften things. Basically heat the necks until they reach the annealing state (assumed to be around 650-700 for most brass) and then remove from the heat. Some think you need to place it in water. You can do that, but it's not necessary. Air cooling is fine. Paint 4-5 necks and place them in the flame while spinning them. Count how long it took you to get the temilaq to activate and change. Usually 4-6 seconds depending on the variables. Then repeat that process for the rest of your lot. Uniformity and consistency is what you're going for. I don't know if he's still around or offering the service but there use to be a guy on SnipersHide (before it switched hands back and forth) that for like $0.20-$0.30 a piece would wet stainless tumble clean your brass and anneal it. I'll have to see if I can find any info on that for you if you're interested. [/QUOTE]
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