load developement

trueblue

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What procedure to you use for load developement ? I was thinking of trying a couple of powders and load in .5 gr increments to check velocities and pressure signs. Then after establishing a good velocity, then work on seating depth for accuracy. Is this the best way, or is there something better. I will be getting my new 7 STW next week, and want to do some load developement while breaking in the barrel. It was a build that was started about 5 months ago,and am ready to get started.
 
I've reloaded for two 7STW's and both did well with 7828. I just followed the load manual for the particular bullet and starting load. For Accubonds and such I start with a .010 jump and concentrate on powder first. My 7STW Sendero drives tacks with 160gn TSX with max charge of 7828 or RL-22 with .040 jump. This is the basic method and works for me. I had an Accumark that drove me nuts trying to develope an accurate load. The Sendero was instant success.

Good luck.
 
I'd start at 20K off the lands then when you find a bullet powder combo that the barrel likes at longrange you can go in 10K and and be 10K off the lands ,then go to 30K off with another test group.
That way you'll know if it likes very close or 30K off the lands.

Myself i shoot two shot groups during load developement one right behind the next.
My concentration drops off too much for multiple five shot groups ,if i pull a shot -i shoot another one simple as that.

I do my real load developement at 300yds -and only on very light to wind at all days- 300yds is far enough to really see what she's doing.
I'm not a benchrest or competitive shooter -i'm a longrange hunter so i try to developement and tune my rifle to shoot as accurately as possible under what would be considered a hunting senario.
Good luck w/ your new STW =great cartridge for sure.ME
 
I guess I go against the grain on this one. IMO, you should ALWAYS break-in a barrel, or at least the first 20 or so rounds, with the bullet seated INTO the lands. American made custom barrels have a higher sulfur content which makes them a little "softer" than others, like the Walther, which has a very low sulfur content. You can check with a smith on this but you can probably cut a chamber in about an hour using a Broughton, Shilen, Lilja, Hart, etc. It can take about 4x that amount of time to cut into the German made steel.

Having a bullet jump during initial shooting increases the risk of creating porosity at the intial rifling. You don't want to do that. Do yourself a favor and seat into the lands for break-in, or at least 20 rounds, then start backing off the lands for devepmnet.
 
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