Live round stuck in chamber Rem 700

[Browny1958]

I have a live round stuck in chamber of Rem 700 308 VLS ,it didnt close so i extracted round or tried to it was stuck too ? Finally bolt came out but live round stayed in chamber ?I dumped some release all (oil) down bore and for 2 days i left it alone and then sprayed chamber side for 2 days now what ???
> Dave
Need some help here my gunsmith is gone hunting for 2 weeks.????

 

[JUDD]

Cleaning rod....

Is your extractor broke?

 

[Derek M.]

put the rifle in a chest freezer for a day. works for me.

 

[Gunpoor]

All the above posts are good to try. I would use a brass gas brazing rod as near to bore size as possible and, with the bolt removed from rifle, put the rifle butt on the floor and drop the rod into the muzzle end of the barrel. Start with a short drop and if the cartridge doesn't move increase the amount of drop but I don't think it will require too much to get it out. Usually a light tap of the rod will romove them.

 

[BigSkyGP]

Carry a flexible cable cleaning rod just for that.

Did you forget to trim your brass? Did the rim get ripped off by the extractor?

I almost forgot, I've stuck a live round, I had reloaded a case that had case expanstion. Uncle almost did in his 1911, when he didn't trim the brass.

I've stuck cases, from overpressure. My fault!

 

[Buffalobob]

Carry a flexible cable cleaning rod just for that.

I can't say I've ever stuck a live round.

All plans are good plans but some times the execution is problematic.


Two things about the cleaning rod method

First make sure you do not have a tip on it and you get the nose of the bullet into the female end of the rod so the rod does not get between the bullet and the barrel and scratch up your barrel and jam the bullet even worse. If the bullet pushes down into the case then you have reduced the pressure but now need to pour water into the barrel to wet down the powder and primer before you do much more.

Secondly make sure the barrel is pointed in a safe direction and that your hand is the only thing above the barrel.

 

[Loner]

An old aluminum cleaning rod is what I have used, no tip. Don't use anything
that can splinter and jam around the bullet. (seen that on another thread) Stuff a
rag in the receiver so the case doesn't fly out and whack the primer on something. You
can pound on that rod pretty hard. I don't use my hand though. A foot or so of 2x4 makes
a safer hammer. Remember if it does blow (never heard of one doing it) the rod is going
to add enough weight that the main explosion is going to be out the chamber end. That
is where you want some protection. A nice thick piece of plywood between you and the
gun is not a bad idea.

 

[Buano]

Previous posts have covered most of what I would recommend;

• Remove the bolt & check to see if you still have an extractor. Broken extractors happen with the Model 700 rifle more than they should.

• Wrap the rifle with several towels or a blanket to contain and case fragments under the extremely remote chance the shell goes off. Stand the rifle on its' butt & secure it so you can work on it.

• Drive the shell out using a cleaning rod but DO NOT put your hand over the rod. (Although there's less than a 1 in a million chance of making a shell go off by driving the bullet, why risk serious injury?) Steel transmits shock much better than aluminum, so if a aluminum rod won't drive it out, use a steel one.

• When trying to break something free, "shock" does more good than steady pressure. Hold the cleaning rod by the sides with it against the bullet & hit it sharply. (The 2x4 recommended earlier is a good idea if you don't have a mallet available.) You should get it out easily.

•*If this doesn't work you can freeze the gun & try again. Freezing works since brass contracts more per degree cooled than steel does. (The coefficient of thermal expansion, the change in size per degree changed, for brass is about 30% higher than for steel.) That makes the case looser in the chamber.

•*If that doesn't work, and I would be shocked to get to this stage, you can pull the bullet with a screw-in bullet puller. These are used with black-powder rifles if the powder gets damp & won't fire. If you get to this stage I suspect there is A LOT more going on here than "just" a stuck shell. I would question whether it's the right caliber bullet.

I've only once had to drill out a bullet, but that's a long story for another time.

Let us know what happens!

 

[Browny1958]

Previous posts have covered most of what I would recommend;

• Remove the bolt & check to see if you still have an extractor. Broken extractors happen with the Model 700 rifle more than they should.

• Wrap the rifle with several towels or a blanket to contain and case fragments under the extremely remote chance the shell goes off. Stand the rifle on its' butt & secure it so you can work on it.

• Drive the shell out using a cleaning rod but DO NOT put your hand over the rod. (Although there's less than a 1 in a million chance of making a shell go off by driving the bullet, why risk serious injury?) Steel transmits shock much better than aluminum, so if a aluminum rod won't drive it out, use a steel one.

• When trying to break something free, "shock" does more good than steady pressure. Hold the cleaning rod by the sides with it against the bullet & hit it sharply. (The 2x4 recommended earlier is a good idea if you don't have a mallet available.) You should get it out easily.

•*If this doesn't work you can freeze the gun & try again. Freezing works since brass contracts more per degree cooled than steel does. (The coefficient of thermal expansion, the change in size per degree changed, for brass is about 30% higher than for steel.) That makes the case looser in the chamber.

•*If that doesn't work, and I would be shocked to get to this stage, you can pull the bullet with a screw-in bullet puller. These are used with black-powder rifles if the powder gets damp & won't fire. If you get to this stage I suspect there is A LOT more going on here than "just" a stuck shell. I would question whether it's the right caliber bullet.

I've only once had to drill out a bullet, but that's a long story for another time.

Let us know what happens!

Browny1958 Hey guys thanks for all those Ideas i jusy got the live round out yesterday,Sunday,I put oil in barrel for 1 week and then i put oil in chamber end for 1 week, i then used a steel rod and drove the round out it worked,yes i will check the extractor.When I took the live round apart the powder was compacted(powder) and wet with oil . Should i get gunsmith to install Sako type extractor ???Thanks Again
Dave

 

[Buffalobob]

Should i get gunsmith to install Sako type extractor ?

You should figure out why it got stuck and remedy that.

 

[Buano]

The Sako type extractor is preferable to the Remington version but don't worry about that until you know the cause of your stuck cartridge.

Is the shell out yet?
Is the extractor broken of bent?
If not, why did the shell get stuck?

Many, if not most, custom rifles built on a Remington action include an upgrade to the extractor. If yours is broken it's a good time for an upgrade but if you are selling the rifle anytime soon you may wish to skip it as you will likely get as much for it with a stock Remington extractor as with a Sako extractor.