To answer your question regarding the 'simple way' to determine the origins of your rifling, these 2 methods are the easiest.
If you have a cleaning rod, do this, close the bolt in the rifle, put the cleaning rod all way down the barrel from the muzzle end until it touches the bolt face, mark the cleaning rod shaft flush with the muzzle, remove it and the bolt from the rifle. Take the bullet you want to use, hold the rifle muzzle DOWN and drop it in the chamber, using a biro pen or similar, hold the bullet in place, carefully put the cleaning rod into the muzzle until it just touches the bullet tip, mark flush with the muzzle again. The measurement between the 2 marks is the distance to the rifling on the OGIVE of the bullet, it is NOT the COL measurement from base to tip.
The other method will give you the COL measurement for each bullet style quicker and easier.
Take an empty case, using a dremel cut off wheel, or a hacksaw, cut 2 slots in the case neck opposite each other, clean any burrs off, size the neck, place a bullet in it and carefully chamber it, once chambered, lift and turn down the bolt a few times, this stops any stickyness of the bullet.
Carefully remove the round, if the rifle has a plunger ejector, use your thumb to hold it centred as you pull back on the bolt, this will stop it dragging on the chamber walls, completely remove the round and measure from base to tip. Record the measurement, repeat several times to make sure you're getting an accurate measurement.
Once this is determined, I keep a record of the throat length, this is done by seating a bullet backwards in the above modified case and measuring it, then for each bullet, I keep a dummy round at the length it is to be loaded.
As long as you set your seater die stem tight, whether you measure by base to tip or base to ogive, the seater plug seats by the ogive. I have never seen a complete box of bullets that have had the same base to tip or base to ogive length, they all differ by a few thou.
Cheers.
lightbulb