Laminate Stock Repair

[shooter0610]

I have a stock that had 2" cut off of it, for my son to use the gun. I'm having a hard time finding a replacement stock for this gun. So I am wanting to reattach the piece I cut off, years ago. It is laminate if that matters, Has anyone ever successfully reattached one that was cut?

I was thinking of pinning with maybe an old carbon arrow (cutting 2" piece) in a couple spots with a good wood epoxy, thoughts?

 

[Orange Dust]

Use epoxy bedding compound and pin it with wood dowels. brownells Acraglas Gel is tops for this.

 

[Dosh]

Won't look very attractive unless you fill the "wound" and paint the stock. My son got a .270 win with a crack in the stock, we drilled a 1/4" hole and used a stainless wood screw with the hole full of epoxy. He painted the stock which looks great. Still a strong as new.

 

[shortgrass]

What about the 'wood' the saw blade turned to saw dust when the stock was cut off? With that 'wood' gone there'll be no 'perfect match-up' of the 2 pieces.

 

[shooter0610]

What about the 'wood' the saw blade turned to saw dust when the stock was cut off? With that 'wood' gone there'll be no 'perfect match-up' of the 2 pieces.

Used a band saw so almost as small a difference as possible. When just sticking the 2 pieces together therr is maybe a 1/32 differenc, all the way around and the grain matches pretty **** good. Little sanding and refinishI got and I think it will turn out pretty good.
Don't get me wrong I'll always know what happened but if I can join and it hold, from 10' away it'll look right.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

I would use stainless screws like Dosh mentioned. I would also use a GOOD Glue make sure that you "Score" both sides of the cut parts when gluing together so there is a place for the glue to bond. Don't Score next to the edges. You can then sand and paint or Tru Oil the whole stock. If you do it right you make never notice the difference.

 

[shortgrass]

If you can stand "from 10' away", have at it!

 

[sp6x6]

Use the dowel idea Or wood screw threw the butt are,countersink and plug hole.They make bits for this,also could put a couple wood bisquits in it ,ask a finish carpenter friend. I ve buit houses,furniture,knives,lots of stuff.That be easy to do.

 

[CDFrom]

I second the biscuit idea, if you have access to anyone with a biscuit cutter. Measure twice cut once, use #20 biscuits. I think I would use a slow cure epoxy for that procedure trying to keep the exposed edges as dry as possible.
For finishing sand with boiled linseed oil and 400grit wet sand paper, following with 600. The oil carries sanding dust into the crevices and fills them with a matching color and type of wood.
I sanded my 03 Springfield several times this way and finished with truoil/ wax. Beautiful finish on a 70 Y/O weapon, a bit slick in the first rain though.

 

[Alibiiv]

Used a band saw so almost as small a difference as possible. When just sticking the 2 pieces together therr is maybe a 1/32 differenc, all the way around and the grain matches pretty **** good. Little sanding and refinishI got and I think it will turn out pretty good.
Don't get me wrong I'll always know what happened but if I can join and it hold, from 10' away it'll look right.

What is the make and the model of the rifle this stock is on? If it were my rifle I would be locating the cutoff piece in place where I want it to be and drill two 7/16th inch holes through the cut-off piece and into the stock. I would drill the 7/16ths in holes in the stock at least 3/4 inches deep in an area where there's no chance for a break through to the outside of the stock. I would then cut two pieces of 3/8th inch "all thread" rod and cut the rod to a length where they are just below the back of the stock when they are pieced together. I would use Brownell's acraglas epoxy to epoxy the all-thread rod in place in the stock as well as spread the epoxy over the two, end-grained pieces of stock that you are affixing together. I would clean up end grain pieces with some course sandpaper before epoxying them together, and wipe off the all-thread with lacquer thinner or some type of cleaner to make sure there is not oil of film on the all-thread. I would also mask off the entire area around where the repair is getting done because in all likelihood it's going to be messy. Once everything is ready to be epoxied together I would spread a generous amount of epoxy into the two 7/16th inch holes, a generous amount of epoxy on the all-thread and a skim on both sides of the cut areas of the stock where they will be joined together. Join the two pieces together with the all-thread inside of the holes and then clamp/hold the two pieces in place with some long pieces of masking tape or duct tape until the epoxy cures. Only minimal pressure is needed on the tape holding the stock and cut-off piece is necessary as it dries because you do not want to squeeze out the epoxy from the two mating areas. I hope that all makes sense to you. Essentially you are going to be holding the cutoff piece onto the original stock with two pieces of all-thread rod. I repaired a stock that was broken at the pistol grip with this same process. When I did the repair I made sure there was enough epoxy inside of the hole so that it had to be forced out of the hole to ensure that the epoxy was force in and around the all-thread rod. I can assure you that this stock will never break in the pistol grip area again. Good luck with your repair.

 

[blvette75]

Not knowing what type of rifle I would recommend going to Boyds and seeing if they have new stock they are fairly reasonable, they do make an At-One laminate fully adjustable stock that fits a lot of rifles.

Other option is go to the manufacturer of the rifle, I had purchased a youth stock shotgun for my daughter a few years ago, knowing she was going to grow into a full length stock soon enough had purchased that as well. She already requires the full length stock for almost a year now.

 

[TRexF16]

What brand and model of rifle? Folks might can help you find a full sized stock. You might want to hang on to that short stock as you might need it for a grandson before you know it!

If you decide to reattach the cut-off, you do have more options with the laminated stock than a standard wood stock. With a wood stock, you'd not get real good performance with screws into end grain, but with the laminate, screws would hold much better.
Try just "tacking the stock on temporarily perfectly lined up, with a couple drops of glue. Then drill through the tacked on cut-off into the shortened stock, using a bit sized for the screws to "bite." Pop off the tacked on cut-off and then drill out the holes through the cut-off to completely clear the threads on your screws, letting the smaller holes guide the drill bit for the clearance holes. Counter-sink the holes for the screw heads. Spread epoxy on the two parts and "wang 'er down", allowing the squeeze-out to just sit. When it's hardened, file it down flush and refinish as desired.

HINT: If you're going to have a recoil pad, make sure the holes you drill to reattach the cut-off are out of the way of the screws for the pad.

Hope this helps. Dowels or biscuits will still work but I think this'll be easier and more secure.

Rex

 

[SEGARE]

2 or 3 deck screws.

Fusor Panel Bond 208B.

It's used to glue dually wheel flares to the body.

It will pull chunks of the stock out bf the bond fails.

 

[Mmac52280]

I have my own company, and I specialize in restoring churches and Victorian homes. I build period doors from scratch, as well as carving replacement trim pieces. I would recommend you visit Abatron's website. Their wood epoxy kits are outstanding, and the best I have found in 35 years of work experience. Even when it looks like termites holding hands, I can fix it with their products.