Ckgworks
Well-Known Member
I have a HS Precision stock on a rifle that someone had done a rough job inletting a new DBM bottom metal prior to me obtaining it. I started out just planning to redo the shape/fit around the mag, and like many of my quick projects, one thing leads to another.........and another.....After cleaning up the bottom metal fit, I re-bed the action, which led to adding grip with epoxy, and buying a cheap airbrush and playing with paint. Sitting waiting for paint to dry, I started thinking about adding a cheek rest, of course I didn't think about it until it was painted and if you did it prior to paint, you could end up with a much smoother transition on the imbeded studs......Anyway I'm sure someone has done one this way before, but I thought I'd throw it out there as an idea....time will tell how it holds up, but I can't see why it won't work. I like the "floating" look, and the no knob smoothness. I shoot left hand, so this allows either right (kids) or left hand shooting without anything to catch.
Basically, I installed two threaded inserts into the top of the stock with epoxy and contoured when dry. I formed the cheek piece and two small strips over an old shotgun stock before epoxing the whole mess together. This was just to build a little mass to counter sink the screws into, and you could probably get away without it if you used thicker Kydex, but I was using what I had on hand. Shim to height with neoprene rubber, or metal spacers and tighten down. I used a couple of firm rubber automotive spacers from the local ACE Hardware, and the rubber squished a little for a nice tight pad.
Now....if only I would have added flush cups prior to painting...
View attachment 99733
View attachment 99738 View attachment 99739
Basically, I installed two threaded inserts into the top of the stock with epoxy and contoured when dry. I formed the cheek piece and two small strips over an old shotgun stock before epoxing the whole mess together. This was just to build a little mass to counter sink the screws into, and you could probably get away without it if you used thicker Kydex, but I was using what I had on hand. Shim to height with neoprene rubber, or metal spacers and tighten down. I used a couple of firm rubber automotive spacers from the local ACE Hardware, and the rubber squished a little for a nice tight pad.
Now....if only I would have added flush cups prior to painting...
View attachment 99733
View attachment 99738 View attachment 99739