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Is there a way to tighten up velocity, ES, & SD?
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<blockquote data-quote="Ragnarnar" data-source="post: 1334490" data-attributes="member: 98218"><p>I don't see any mention of how you clean your brass. I've gone back to using Walnut shell because it's been pointed out that the fine layer of carbon that gets removed by other stainless or ultrasonics actually helps SD/ES by keeping the bullets from sticking to the brass.</p><p></p><p>I've also had to neck turn on bad lots of brass to even out the es and sd.</p><p></p><p>It's already been said but annealing (correctly and evenly) helped me out too. I'm doing induction annealing now, so I'm able to consistently achieve the same hardness on each case every single time, without worrying about tank pressure or flame temperature. </p><p></p><p>Also primers. I like magnum primers in most rifles regardless of the charges or powder. I've found those to have the best sd's and es's because (I think) the larger spark ignites the powder more consistently. I do realize you're probably using magnums already but different brands might be "hotter."</p><p></p><p>And make sure your primers are all the same depth. You can seat on the top of a coax press if you have one, or buy one of the fancy priming tools from 21st century or primal rights. My primers are always at the same depth thanks to Greg.</p><p></p><p>And flash holes. Trim the crap in there, out of them if it's there. It literally actually like a flash hider on an AR with the primer spark so it helps to even them out on most brass.</p><p></p><p>Also upgrading to a better scale so my charges were more consistent. Larger case volumes seem to be more forgiving too, so take heart in that.</p><p></p><p>And I generally use premium brass unless I'm forced to use otherwise. I learned this the hard way. I don't think lapua does anything for your particular chambering, but one of the first observations I made when I started reloading for .223 back in the beginning was the groups shot with lapua brass were far superior to my other groups shot with lesser brass. Maybe buy a box of nosler or Norma and see if that helps?</p><p></p><p>And I suppose component sorting will help. Same weight brass/bullets. I've never had to do it though.</p><p></p><p>I've got my .223 bolt gun to 9fps es (using ball powder, if you can believe that) and my .308 bolt gun to 5fps using the ideas above. Both of those are with lapua brass and 20 shot strings. I'm expecting to be able to accomplish the same thing on my 7LRM with hornady brass, but I'm prepared to put in some extra work.</p><p></p><p>I went on way longer than I wanted to, sorry for that.</p><p>Good luck</p><p></p><p>Edit: oh and maybe either crimping or jamming bullets. It will let the powder get a more complete burn started before the bullet starts to move. Thus a more even burn. Entropy is a cruel mistress some days.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ragnarnar, post: 1334490, member: 98218"] I don't see any mention of how you clean your brass. I've gone back to using Walnut shell because it's been pointed out that the fine layer of carbon that gets removed by other stainless or ultrasonics actually helps SD/ES by keeping the bullets from sticking to the brass. I've also had to neck turn on bad lots of brass to even out the es and sd. It's already been said but annealing (correctly and evenly) helped me out too. I'm doing induction annealing now, so I'm able to consistently achieve the same hardness on each case every single time, without worrying about tank pressure or flame temperature. Also primers. I like magnum primers in most rifles regardless of the charges or powder. I've found those to have the best sd's and es's because (I think) the larger spark ignites the powder more consistently. I do realize you're probably using magnums already but different brands might be "hotter." And make sure your primers are all the same depth. You can seat on the top of a coax press if you have one, or buy one of the fancy priming tools from 21st century or primal rights. My primers are always at the same depth thanks to Greg. And flash holes. Trim the crap in there, out of them if it's there. It literally actually like a flash hider on an AR with the primer spark so it helps to even them out on most brass. Also upgrading to a better scale so my charges were more consistent. Larger case volumes seem to be more forgiving too, so take heart in that. And I generally use premium brass unless I'm forced to use otherwise. I learned this the hard way. I don't think lapua does anything for your particular chambering, but one of the first observations I made when I started reloading for .223 back in the beginning was the groups shot with lapua brass were far superior to my other groups shot with lesser brass. Maybe buy a box of nosler or Norma and see if that helps? And I suppose component sorting will help. Same weight brass/bullets. I've never had to do it though. I've got my .223 bolt gun to 9fps es (using ball powder, if you can believe that) and my .308 bolt gun to 5fps using the ideas above. Both of those are with lapua brass and 20 shot strings. I'm expecting to be able to accomplish the same thing on my 7LRM with hornady brass, but I'm prepared to put in some extra work. I went on way longer than I wanted to, sorry for that. Good luck Edit: oh and maybe either crimping or jamming bullets. It will let the powder get a more complete burn started before the bullet starts to move. Thus a more even burn. Entropy is a cruel mistress some days. [/QUOTE]
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Is there a way to tighten up velocity, ES, & SD?
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