Inletting Mauser '98 ?

[Shubey]

Never ceases to amaze me that paying $150 to$300 to gunsmith for Machine turning into semi-inletted stock, things that are necessary to accomplish. Just fitting a Timney Trigger with side safe is about as time consuming as the bottom metal itself! Anyone building a Custom Rifle is going to replace Military Trigger so this wood removal should be in the pattern itself! Anyone with tips on this procedure do not hesitate to contact me please.

 

[std7mag]

When I built my daughter's Mauser, I used a Timney without the safety.
For the safety I got a Dakota 3 position on the bolt.
Some light clearancing was needed on the Boyd's AT-One stock.
I used a 1/8" carbide endmill in a Dremel. Made quick work of it.

 

[Shubey]

When I built my daughter's Mauser, I used a Timney without the safety.
For the safety I got a Dakota 3 position on the bolt.
Some light clearancing was needed on the Boyd's AT-One stock.
I used a 1/8" carbide endmill in a Dremel. Made quick work of it.

I have a dremel& I have hollowed out a lot of wood! When I tighten stock bolts, safety will not move to safe position. Tough situation as you are working blind. Somewhere wood is placing pressure on timney & causing this woe! This is about my 15th project...not my 1st Rodeo!

 

[AkleyFan]

The bottom of the Timney and the Bold side safety triggers may come into contact with your bottom metal. I have to cut a relief for the safety's slide plate where the trigger passes through (the side plate travels/rocks back and forth when actuating) - I usually grind away carefully with my dremel since I don't have a mill. Some, but not all, of the commercial bottom metal will have this cut already as they used a wide range of trigger types. I can send pics if desired. Mausers are my platform of choice.

Also, ensure that the trigger shoe has enough clearance on each side of the bottom metal when torqued into place - I usually end up filing this area a bit wider as the shoe drags on the side for various reasons.

 

[Shubey]

The bottom of the Timney and the Bold side safety triggers may come into contact with your bottom metal. I have to cut a relief for the safety's slide plate where the trigger passes through (the side plate travels/rocks back and forth when actuating) - I usually grind away carefully with my dremel since I don't have a mill. Some, but not all, of the commercial bottom metal will have this cut already as they used a wide range of trigger types. I can send pics if desired. Mausers are my platform of choice.

Also, ensure that the trigger shoe has enough clearance on each side of the bottom metal when torqued into place - I usually end up filing this area a bit wider as the shoe drags on the side for various reasons.

My gunsmith used his mill to allow trigger to pass through. Safe is still frozen so far. Pix would be appreciated ! D.

 

[Shubey]

My gunsmith used his mill to allow trigger to pass through. Safe is still frozen so far. Pix would be appreciated ! D.

Just where do you cut this relief?

 

[AkleyFan]

I can post some pics tomorrow, but first some troubleshooting.

If you set the action in the stock without the bottom metal in place and use your hand to apply some clamping force to the action/stock, does the saftey move freely? If it does, it's the bottom metal interfering with the safety. If it doesn't move freely without the bottom metal in place, the stock is interfering with the safety.

 

[Mike Matteson]

What type of Mauser action are you using? The Mauser action that I have, and converted the safety is on the bolt. I used them in several of my rifles. I have changed to Rem 700 action now because of the triggerTech triggers. I wish TriggerTeck would build triggers for the Mauser actions.

 

[Dean2]

Being a old timer who learned to inlet stocks long before there was an internet, I have always used Prussian Blue to find out where things are touching. Works great, all the old custom stock makers used it.

 

[Rotten]

You can also use a candle or a lighter to smoke the metal like smoking a bullet mold. The black soot should be seen on the wood or metal where it's coming into contact. But bluing works much better.

 

[Shubey]

What type of Mauser action are you using? The Mauser action that I have, and converted the safety is on the bolt. I used them in several of my rifles. I have changed to Rem 700 action now because of the triggerTech triggers. I wish TriggerTeck would build triggers for the Mauser actions.

Mexican small ring action.

 

[Shubey]

I can post some pics tomorrow, but first some troubleshooting.

If you set the action in the stock without the bottom metal in place and use your hand to apply some clamping force to the action/stock, does the saftey move freely? If it does, it's the bottom metal interfering with the safety. If it doesn't move freely without the bottom metal in place, the stock is interfering with the safety.

Update: I used Jerrows inletting paste again& I am getting high spots here &there. Trigger housing seems to be touching stock in back,towards tang. A frustrating process,As I am working blind. The key is to keep my patience in a very frustrating scenario.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Being a old timer who learned to inlet stocks long before there was an internet, I have always used Prussian Blue to find out where things are touching. Works great, all the old custom stock makers used it.

I don't know abut prussian blue, but I do use black oil paint and mix in motor oil to thin it out some. We problem both apply the mix the same, remove what is touching and do it again until done. I have a lot of tools for that. I never tried to checker the stocks. Then the sanding and finishing with True-oil.