Howa Mini Barrel Removal

ntsqd

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I have heard that these barrels are tight in the action. Looking for an idea of what I've gotten myself into. Is this a "secure the barrel and then LEAN on the action wrench" situation, or a "secure the barrel and use a Hy-Torq" situation? Or worse?

Thinking to order Brownell's barrel vise with the #7 inserts. The Wheeler action wrench that I have for a Savage might be adaptable. If not I will probably have to make a tool to turn the action as I'm not (yet) finding one specifically for it.

Going with McGowen's "Howage" barrel nut system on the new barrel. Initial measurements say that the barrel threads need only be .400" longer than normal and that the barrel forward of the threads be no larger in OD than 1.150" for roughly .500" past the end of the threads.
 
It's on my to-do list to turn a .223 one into a 6.8 for a buddy. Haven't touched it, yet.
 
All you can do is try it! Barrel vise that fits the contour of the barrel good. An action wrench that fits the action, and a secure bench to mount the vise on. Some of the Howas will give up the barrel and some won't. When they won't, chuck it up in the lathe and make a relief on the barrel next to the action to remove some of the 'torque'. It'll come off then. Ain't nothin' special about it!
 
Assuming that the LW version that I do have in my hands is the same OD at the chamber as the donor rifle's std wt. barrel (that I don't yet have in my hands) the #7 insert from Brownell's is a perfect fit.

The flat bottom to the Howa Mini action messes with the Savage wrench fitting very well. I may have to either make an insert or make a whole wrench. More investigation needed.
 
I removed a barrel off a Howa 1500 awhile ago. I heard of rumors of how tight some have been so it was a concern of mine also. It came off no problem but was tighter than it needed to be. On the positive side, it didn't have any of that thread sealant/locker that Remington uses. Once the barrel broke loose it spun right off by hand.

John
 
Some will 'spin right off', and some won't. Might be the vintage of manufacture, Specs are changed sometimes. Early manufacture , like the S&W and earlier Howa branded, seem to come right off, no more difficult than a Rem. 700.
 
I've taken off a half dozen of the minis now and it no issue. The Brownell wrench works well with a flat bottom and 1.350" diameter contour for the top. Tighten it all up and give it a whack. I use a 3 Ft 1.25" square bar of brass to swing/hit the handle....it works ten times better than any type of leverage/pulling.
 
Tried pulling mine off last night. Couldn't apply enough force to get it to budge. Took to my smith to have him rip it off. Some easy, some not.
 
Tried pulling mine off last night. Couldn't apply enough force to get it to budge. Took to my smith to have him rip it off. Some easy, some not.

You can pull till the cows come home and not budge it...you need impact. Once good whack with the proper instrument and you'd have had it off in a flash. That doesn't mean a really big hammer either...those are more of a dull thud and don't provide the necessary shock. Think lighter and faster swing.
 
The Howa is one of those that may give you a problem. They have been the toughest actions to remove over the years. I like to use a 4# rubber hammer to impact the wrench, If that doesn't do it i don't want to chance damaging the action so I set it up in the lathe and cut a relief close to the action face and normally they will un-screw by hand, if not very little force will be needed to remove it.

Just don't beat on it or over torque it while removing it. A little finesse goes a long way.

J E CUSTOM
 
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