bigngreen
Well-Known Member
I think you've been your own worst enemy on this, best thing to do is take it to a competent smith like Kevin, leave it and don't call till it's done!!!
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How would you rate this chamber job?
- Thread starter Jinx-)
- Start date
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trebark
Well-Known Member
It is my understanding that f**ked-up barrels make great tomato stakes.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Jinx, I'm done trying to diagnose from a distance. I don't know for sure what your 'smith did or exactly what condition the barrel was in to begin with. I won't re-chamber 'factory' barrels. They're a waste of time from my point of view. If it's not right from the factory, send it back! When you alter it, it's yours. I totally agree with bigngreen, you've been you're own worst enemy with this thing. Gunsmiths/rifle builders 'kick' in lots of extras most don't see, but nobody with 40 years experience 'smithing, is goin' to do a re-chamber, that's not his to begin with, for "free".Shortgrass, so one complete turn shouldn't put my barrel looking like this?
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Jinx.
This has been an active post with many different comments and suggestions and I have one
more to add .
At this time I would abandon this project and move on. It's not going to get better.
So you learned some/many lessons, It happens to all of us.
I would re group and find the smith you want to use and spend some time/conversation with
him and make some decisions before moving on.
I would junk the barrel and replace it with a high quality custom stainless barrel to start with.
Next I would have the action trued for the new barrel, and the new barrel installed (With or
without the barrel nut). This is one of the things that have to be decided by you before you talk
to the smith.
Make a list of everything you want/expect and come to an agreement with your smith.(This includes
cost and schedule) And if there is an accuracy guarantee understand it and live with it.
The Smith may not want to do it your way but it is better to find out before the rifle is started.
There are three grades of rifles as far as I am concerned , Factory (The cheapest and with marginal
accuracy most of the time).
Next is the factory rifle that has all of the original parts but has been worked on by a smith and
has some rework (Clean up the chamber, set back the shoulder, true the action and bed and
float the factory/aftermarket stock).These are/can be expensive and accuracy is only as good
as the barrel and workmanship.
And then comes the custom rifle. New barrel, factory or custom action that has/is squair and true,
A good quality stock with full pillar bedding and floating, A quality trigger and last but not least
quality Smithing.
This is the best way to get the performance from a rifle and sometimes "NOT" the most expensive
considering the lack of problems that may be encountered with the other two types.
This is not a lecture (I had this happen to me twice so I started doing my own work) just a
suggestion to move on or this thing will drive you crazy.
I did not have a great web site like this to guide me through the minefield .hope it turns out well
for you.
J E CUSTOM
This has been an active post with many different comments and suggestions and I have one
more to add .
At this time I would abandon this project and move on. It's not going to get better.
So you learned some/many lessons, It happens to all of us.
I would re group and find the smith you want to use and spend some time/conversation with
him and make some decisions before moving on.
I would junk the barrel and replace it with a high quality custom stainless barrel to start with.
Next I would have the action trued for the new barrel, and the new barrel installed (With or
without the barrel nut). This is one of the things that have to be decided by you before you talk
to the smith.
Make a list of everything you want/expect and come to an agreement with your smith.(This includes
cost and schedule) And if there is an accuracy guarantee understand it and live with it.
The Smith may not want to do it your way but it is better to find out before the rifle is started.
There are three grades of rifles as far as I am concerned , Factory (The cheapest and with marginal
accuracy most of the time).
Next is the factory rifle that has all of the original parts but has been worked on by a smith and
has some rework (Clean up the chamber, set back the shoulder, true the action and bed and
float the factory/aftermarket stock).These are/can be expensive and accuracy is only as good
as the barrel and workmanship.
And then comes the custom rifle. New barrel, factory or custom action that has/is squair and true,
A good quality stock with full pillar bedding and floating, A quality trigger and last but not least
quality Smithing.
This is the best way to get the performance from a rifle and sometimes "NOT" the most expensive
considering the lack of problems that may be encountered with the other two types.
This is not a lecture (I had this happen to me twice so I started doing my own work) just a
suggestion to move on or this thing will drive you crazy.
I did not have a great web site like this to guide me through the minefield .hope it turns out well
for you.
J E CUSTOM
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WyoElk2Hunt
Well-Known Member
I agree with JECUSTOM Beat this poor rifle to death. Just cut your losses and go to next build.
time..., yeah loading for it I spent and lots more then it worth on bullets and powder to make it group...
got call from Savage today, thing was pointless... I send them pictures of original chamber, now they wanted to know why modifications were done to the barrel.
Guys do you know how in short words describe what was originally wrong with this barrel, just by looking at the pictures? Anyway I felt like I was interrogated not a pleasant talk I might expect from customer service... Wat difference does it make now, what is done is done...
got call from Savage today, thing was pointless... I send them pictures of original chamber, now they wanted to know why modifications were done to the barrel.
Guys do you know how in short words describe what was originally wrong with this barrel, just by looking at the pictures? Anyway I felt like I was interrogated not a pleasant talk I might expect from customer service... Wat difference does it make now, what is done is done...
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bigngreen
Well-Known Member
Doubled up.......
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bigngreen
Well-Known Member
It would depend if you got a good one, the F-class team has pulled some good barrels without a bore scope then others they've scoped and picked. Not as good of odds as a custom barrel fitted but a good smith.
I've had a couple factory heavy barrels that shot extremely well and you would be hard pressed to top them.
I've had a couple factory heavy barrels that shot extremely well and you would be hard pressed to top them.
Offer them the one that's buggered up for $100.
By the way, I talked to my smith and he recommend me wood dowel with fine grit sandpaper to finish shoulders in that chamber, so I I made wood dowel shaped like my chamber with 30 degree shoulders, and I used 320 grit sandpaper and I think he was right its getting better! He is an old-timer and retired, but I guess he build rifles for 40 years and knows something... Still far from perfection but that's how brass looks now:
maybe few more passes and I'll get rid of them rings...
maybe few more passes and I'll get rid of them rings...
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