Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How much variation in shoulder from chamber to chamber?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="keithcandler" data-source="post: 1757593" data-attributes="member: 3728"><p>I always got best accuracy out of my various 7 Mags using a full length sizer. Neck sizing was helter skelter. The standard Forster neck sizer will bump shoulders, for those that are interested. </p><p></p><p>When adjusting your full length sizer, move it down in 1/16th turns or just barely move it. You will go from a point where the bolt is not closing easy, to a point to where it closes with resistance, then closes easy. You are working down the dimension at the web.</p><p></p><p>You have to remember that brass springs back. Using brass fired from other chambers invites problems as the brass springs back to the dimension that it was originally fired in. I have had loaded ammo that was purchased from a source that does testing, have the bullets fall back inside the case they expanded so much. Brass shot in huge chambers are a real problem. For this reason, with my brass fired from another rifle, I keep my ammo fresh, meaning that I will load what I think I may need for that season, then shoot it up and start fresh with the next season, 20-30 rounds max.</p><p></p><p>A guy is real smart to start off with new brass for a new barrel. I and family members have had to learn this several times with various problems arising from picking up range brass or buying once fired brass.</p><p></p><p>I shot registered Benchrest for a long time. Issues like this brass issue just drives us crazy.</p><p></p><p>Many of the responses to this would only apply with a custom reamer and custom dies made off the reamer print. Guys repeat what they have heard in good faith of trying to help others out. </p><p></p><p>It is not smart to try and save money by trying to shoot old brass in a new custom barrel. Now if you are going to one sloppy factory chamber to another sloppy factory chamber, you have some lee way. Factory reamers when they are new cut larger chambers, as they get worn, they cut smaller chambers...you take your chances...been down this road also.</p><p></p><p>Redding makes a body die, and while it is not intended to do so, I have full length sized my cases with a body die with loaded ammo.</p><p></p><p>If you can take a Cerro safe chamber cast of your chamber, and use a .0001 Mic, you can get some accurate measurements off the web dia on your brass. You need to size .002 below this dia and .003 is better.</p><p></p><p>Chambers are not always cut concentric, meaning some are slightly egg shaped. The most accurate factory 7 Mag that I had, had an egg shaped chamber. I full length sized that brass and never had a problem, Browning A bolt, Stainless stalker.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keithcandler, post: 1757593, member: 3728"] I always got best accuracy out of my various 7 Mags using a full length sizer. Neck sizing was helter skelter. The standard Forster neck sizer will bump shoulders, for those that are interested. When adjusting your full length sizer, move it down in 1/16th turns or just barely move it. You will go from a point where the bolt is not closing easy, to a point to where it closes with resistance, then closes easy. You are working down the dimension at the web. You have to remember that brass springs back. Using brass fired from other chambers invites problems as the brass springs back to the dimension that it was originally fired in. I have had loaded ammo that was purchased from a source that does testing, have the bullets fall back inside the case they expanded so much. Brass shot in huge chambers are a real problem. For this reason, with my brass fired from another rifle, I keep my ammo fresh, meaning that I will load what I think I may need for that season, then shoot it up and start fresh with the next season, 20-30 rounds max. A guy is real smart to start off with new brass for a new barrel. I and family members have had to learn this several times with various problems arising from picking up range brass or buying once fired brass. I shot registered Benchrest for a long time. Issues like this brass issue just drives us crazy. Many of the responses to this would only apply with a custom reamer and custom dies made off the reamer print. Guys repeat what they have heard in good faith of trying to help others out. It is not smart to try and save money by trying to shoot old brass in a new custom barrel. Now if you are going to one sloppy factory chamber to another sloppy factory chamber, you have some lee way. Factory reamers when they are new cut larger chambers, as they get worn, they cut smaller chambers...you take your chances...been down this road also. Redding makes a body die, and while it is not intended to do so, I have full length sized my cases with a body die with loaded ammo. If you can take a Cerro safe chamber cast of your chamber, and use a .0001 Mic, you can get some accurate measurements off the web dia on your brass. You need to size .002 below this dia and .003 is better. Chambers are not always cut concentric, meaning some are slightly egg shaped. The most accurate factory 7 Mag that I had, had an egg shaped chamber. I full length sized that brass and never had a problem, Browning A bolt, Stainless stalker. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How much variation in shoulder from chamber to chamber?
Top