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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
How critical is scope level?
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<blockquote data-quote="edward hogan" data-source="post: 1547858" data-attributes="member: 1341"><p>Scope "level"....</p><p>Not nearly as critical as orienting the scope perfectly on the cernter-bore line and crosshair aligned perfectly on both axes.</p><p></p><p>Canted base systems have been used for years to enable longrange adjustments. The cant varies depending on how much "gain" in vertical travel you require for the distance you expect to be shooting. </p><p></p><p>What you want to know for longrange is the total remaining come-ups on your reticle movement. Without a heavily canted scope base like a 40min Picatinny Rail, it's pretty hard to shoot 1000 yds or longer, unless you zero your rifle at 500-600 yds. So... you might find that your scope has 60 MOA or 58 Mils of total elevation. If zeroed at 100yds, it might take 35 moa without the canted base. With a 40min cant, you'd have a zero of 150-200yds and FULL 60 moa of come-ups available. You check a ballistics calculator and chart your trajectory and plot or write-out elevation gain for your possible distances. Then you check it at the range.</p><p></p><p>The Bushnell #74-3333 boresighter-collimator tool is especially handy to verify that your turrets move consistently the same value. It is great for mounting verification also as it has a 160 moa grid etched within. Great for diagnosing problems and inconsistencies.</p><p></p><p>A hashmark reticle is also excellent for hold-unders at close range and fast reaction holdovers at moderate to medium (600yd) ranges.</p><p></p><p>Everything depends on your scope base and rings. The Boresighter should be very close to centerline before any adjustments are considered. Your scope ought also be reticle-centered when dialed at mid-point of both elevation and windage adjustments. Often, setting the scope at mid-point might result in your being Off a couple clicks. If using a Big Money scope, so-called Great Glass, if it's off, you have a lemon. Boresighter can save your bacon, and another reason to check every scope you buy immediately upon delivery.</p><p></p><p>Lots of corrections might be necessary before you have a dependable, reliable platform for longrange... Barrel shoulder might be off-square to the receiver shoulder. Chamber might be cut off-axis. Base mounting holes might be off-center. Barrel may be bored out of center. Stock may have a poor inlet or stress the barrel.</p><p></p><p>Unless you are shooting F-Class or from some mechanical rest like a weighted tripod, a magnum is likely to present recoil problems which can only be solved by taking the punishment or employing a recoil relief system.</p><p></p><p>The BEST tool I ever bought for precision rifle shooting is the Bushnell 74-3333. Without one, or something better, you are flying in the dark w/o instruments, and every correction you make will likely only exacerbate your problems.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="edward hogan, post: 1547858, member: 1341"] Scope "level".... Not nearly as critical as orienting the scope perfectly on the cernter-bore line and crosshair aligned perfectly on both axes. Canted base systems have been used for years to enable longrange adjustments. The cant varies depending on how much "gain" in vertical travel you require for the distance you expect to be shooting. What you want to know for longrange is the total remaining come-ups on your reticle movement. Without a heavily canted scope base like a 40min Picatinny Rail, it's pretty hard to shoot 1000 yds or longer, unless you zero your rifle at 500-600 yds. So... you might find that your scope has 60 MOA or 58 Mils of total elevation. If zeroed at 100yds, it might take 35 moa without the canted base. With a 40min cant, you'd have a zero of 150-200yds and FULL 60 moa of come-ups available. You check a ballistics calculator and chart your trajectory and plot or write-out elevation gain for your possible distances. Then you check it at the range. The Bushnell #74-3333 boresighter-collimator tool is especially handy to verify that your turrets move consistently the same value. It is great for mounting verification also as it has a 160 moa grid etched within. Great for diagnosing problems and inconsistencies. A hashmark reticle is also excellent for hold-unders at close range and fast reaction holdovers at moderate to medium (600yd) ranges. Everything depends on your scope base and rings. The Boresighter should be very close to centerline before any adjustments are considered. Your scope ought also be reticle-centered when dialed at mid-point of both elevation and windage adjustments. Often, setting the scope at mid-point might result in your being Off a couple clicks. If using a Big Money scope, so-called Great Glass, if it's off, you have a lemon. Boresighter can save your bacon, and another reason to check every scope you buy immediately upon delivery. Lots of corrections might be necessary before you have a dependable, reliable platform for longrange... Barrel shoulder might be off-square to the receiver shoulder. Chamber might be cut off-axis. Base mounting holes might be off-center. Barrel may be bored out of center. Stock may have a poor inlet or stress the barrel. Unless you are shooting F-Class or from some mechanical rest like a weighted tripod, a magnum is likely to present recoil problems which can only be solved by taking the punishment or employing a recoil relief system. The BEST tool I ever bought for precision rifle shooting is the Bushnell 74-3333. Without one, or something better, you are flying in the dark w/o instruments, and every correction you make will likely only exacerbate your problems. [/QUOTE]
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