Hornady OAL gauge - making my own modified case

[Left_to_ Lobster]

I've watched quite a few videos on the topic (really like Vaughn Precision if he's on here - kudos). I have access to a lathe I just need the tap. I have a couple of questions on this process:

I need a 5/16-36tpi tap and use a 19/64 drill bit to make it screw into the Hornady tool - right?

I won't have a problem making a once fired piece of brass. Do I put it through the resizing die/pop the primer out/trim the neck?

Thanks and in advance!

 

[JMW67]

I've watched quite a few videos on the topic (really like Vaughn Precision if he's on here - kudos). I have access to a lathe I just need the tap. I have a couple of questions on this process:

I need a 5/16-36tpi tap and use a 19/64 drill bit to make it screw into the Hornady tool - right?

I won't have a problem making a once fired piece of brass. Do I put it through the resizing die/pop the primer out/trim the neck?

Thanks and in advance!

no do not resize if you do the bullet will not slide in the neck just use a decapping die

 

[Carryacolt]

I've watched quite a few videos on the topic (really like Vaughn Precision if he's on here - kudos). I have access to a lathe I just need the tap. I have a couple of questions on this process:

I need a 5/16-36tpi tap and use a 19/64 drill bit to make it screw into the Hornady tool - right?

I won't have a problem making a once fired piece of brass. Do I put it through the resizing die/pop the primer out/trim the neck?

Thanks and in advance!

No resizing, and pop out the primer.
Just be sure its clean by wiping it down real good.

 

[Left_to_ Lobster]

Awesome thanks!

 

[David Malcom]

I have done it using a drill press several limes. Once you remove the primer the drill bit will self center in the primer hole.

 

[Blackhawk]

No resizing, and pop out the primer.
Just be sure its clean by wiping it down real good.

As brass is gummy by nature when you drill and tap remember to lubricate your drill point and clear your chips regularly.
Before you start make certain to secure your shell case tightly in a vise in order to prevent it spinning..
( I made a set of jaws out of oak for just this purpose by drilling a through hole 1/32" larger than my brass shell cases OD .)
Then cut the wood in 1/2 right trough the center of that hole, yielding two halves which clamp around my shell case )
Place the shell case with the head facing up into your oak Vise jaws while tightening your vise in order to prevent your shell case from turning .( Tighten It Well )
Lubricate your drill bit and remember to clear your chips and lubricate as needed until you have drilled through your case head.

Now lubricate your tap
Do not apply excess force on your tap and tap wrench while you are threading as you may break your tap.
Rather keep the tap and tap wrench as nearly vertical as possible in order to insure a good thread and not gall up any threads and slowly begin the tapping process..
While tapping back off on your tap wrench every so often in order to clear your shavings.
Keep tapping and clearing in this manner until you have tapped completely through making certain that the lead on the tap has completely entered your shell cases.

You now are the proud owner a a custom fire formed case which will be exclusive to only one and one weapons chamber tapped to a 5/16" X 36 TPI that will fit on a Stoney Point or Horandy OAL Gage.

 

[FEENIX]

As brass is gummy by nature when you drill and tap remember to lubricate your drill point and clear your chips regularly.
Before you start make certain to secure your shell case tightly in a vise in order to prevent it spinning..
( I made a set of jaws out of oak for just this purpose by drilling a through hole 1/32" larger than my brass shell cases OD .)
Then cut the wood in 1/2 right trough the center of that hole, yielding two halves which clamp around my shell case )
Place the shell case with the head facing up into your oak Vise jaws while tightening your vise in order to prevent your shell case from turning .( Tighten It Well )
Lubricate your drill bit and remember to clear your chips and lubricate as needed until you have drilled through your case head.

Now lubricate your tap
Do not apply excess force on your tap and tap wrench while you are threading as you may break your tap.
Rather keep the tap and tap wrench as nearly vertical as possible in order to insure a good thread and not gall up any threads and slowly begin the tapping process..
While tapping back off on your tap wrench every so often in order to clear your shavings.
Keep tapping and clearing in this manner until you have tapped completely through making certain that the lead on the tap has completely entered your shell cases.

You now are the proud owner a a custom fire formed case which will be exclusive to only one and one weapons chamber tapped to a 5/16" X 36 TPI that will fit on a Stoney Point or Horandy OAL Gage.

The OP has access to a lathe and his approach is towards Vaugh Precision's methodology ...

 

[Blackhawk]

The OP has access to a lathe and his approach is towards Vaugh Precision's methodology ...

I am a follower of Vaughn Precision and have used his methods on other projects. He is one of several people whos advise is solid !
I am simply presenting a way that you may use at home in order to make yourself a fireformed custom case that can be used in conjunction with your Horandy or older Stony Point straight O.A.L. gage if you don't have access to a lathe.
Yes I agree that Curt's way is correct !

 

[FEENIX]

I am a follower of Vaughn Precision and have used his methods on other projects. He is one of several people whos advise is solid !
I am simply presenting a way that you may use at home in order to make yourself a fireformed custom case that can be used in conjunction with your Horandy or older Stony Point straight O.A.L. gage if you don't have axis to a lathe.
Yes I agree that Curt's way is correct !

I read your post multiple times but did not get that from your original response that's why I responded as such.

 

[Blackhawk]

I read your post multiple times but did not get that from your original response that's why I responded as such.

I want to thank you for taking the time to read and respond in kind to my posts !
That's what makes this web site so important to me !
It is the balancing as well as the sharing of information between its subscribers.
Yes I have posted my personal results on how to proceed without the use of a lathe , and failed to indicate that the lathe method is certainly the preferred way to go.
Just offering another way to make a fireformed case to use in an O.A.L. gage is all!
As such I should have stated that beforehand.
Again Thank you

 

[FEENIX]

I want to thank you for taking the time to read and respond in kind to my posts !
That's what makes this web site so important to me !
It is the balancing as well as the sharing of information between its subscribers.
Yes I have posted my personal results on how to proceed without the use of a lathe , and failed to indicate that the lathe method is certainly the preferred way to go.
Just offering another way to make a fireformed case to use in an O.A.L. gage is all!
As such I should have stated that beforehand.
Again Thank you

Gotcha, cheers! Also, I appreciate the PM.

 

[P7M13]

Great thread. Thanks for posting it.
This is why I stopped lurking on this site -- lots of knowledge and mind share here.

 

[FEENIX]

I've watched quite a few videos on the topic (really like Vaughn Precision if he's on here - kudos). I have access to a lathe I just need the tap. I have a couple of questions on this process:

I need a 5/16-36tpi tap and use a 19/64 drill bit to make it screw into the Hornady tool - right?

I won't have a problem making a once fired piece of brass. Do I put it through the resizing die/pop the primer out/trim the neck?

Thanks and in advance!

Any luck/update(s)? I don't have a lathe or access to it but did one on a table drill press for my .30 Gibbs a couple of weeks ago or so.

 

[clemens]

Great information. Just learned something new. Sweet!