Hey Guys Help the Newbie out!!!

[AtownBcat]

Im sure every newbie shows up with this question, but I thought since the details for everyone is a little different....well you get it. I am a hunter first but am very interested in starting to compete in long range shoots. What i have so far is: A HS presicion stock, Im having a kreiger barrel made. Kreiger is doing a level 2 truing of the action and the barrel install. I have a badger rail and rings.Remington long action with a mag bolt face. I hope to have a nightforce 5-22 by the time the gun in ready..(14 weeks...ouch i have found since i placed the order there are faster ways to get this done but since the order has been placed i haven't made any changes) I also have a new Holland radial brake. So here is the question I have been leaning toward a 300WM mainly because that what i have been hunting with. Would the 300 RUM be a better choice. I have very limited knowledge about what the numbers really mean...what does a few FPS really get you. There are factors that i may not even know about yet and know that you guys will point me in the right direction...Also i will have to start with factory ammo until i can get the stuff to reload....sorry this is so long.
Thanks
ryan

 

[Topshot]

Welcome AtownBcat,

Sounds like you are starting out with some good gear. This should make a good first long range rifle.

As a "Newbie" you probably wont shoot as far as some of the more experienced hunters on this web site, so I would go for the 300WSM over the 300RUM.

As you are going to use factory ammo the 300WSM has a better range of factory ammunition that is suited to long range shooting. If you were going to reload right from the start I would go for the 300RUM.

With long range hunting accuracy is very important in order to place your first shot where it counts. But you still need velocity. The 300WSM will give you plenty of range for a first long range rifle. Latter when you have more experience you may wish to go to the 300RUM.

Good luck.

 

[AtownBcat]

Hey TopShot,

thanks for the reply. I wanted to bring out that because i have a long action, I will be going with a 300WM..and not a 300WSM.Just wanted to see if you still think the 300WM is the better option.

thanks

 

[MontanaRifleman]

If you are serious about LR shooting and hunting, handloading is really the only way to go. You can start out with factory ammo to break in your rifle and start learning to shoot mid ranges but handloads should give you more flexability, consistancy and accuracy.

The RUM will have about a 250 fps edge over the WM. To compare apples to apples... shooting a 200 AB you'll get about 2950 fps from the WM vs about 3200 fps from the RUM. In my book that equates to an 850 yd hunting range vs a 975 yd hunting range at sea level for those bullets and velocities. I use the bullets minimum expanding velocity of 1800 fps as my criteria, not KE.

The RUM will handle the bigger and longer high BC bullets better also.

So I would say that the RUM has a significant edge over the WM for LR shooting and hunting IMO.

Good shooting, let us know how you progress. I just got myself a 300 RUM.

Mark

 

[britz]

It depends on what you want to do with your rifle. The WSM will last longer than the wm and certainly the RUM as far as barrel life. If you are using it strictly as a long range big game rifle that that point is imaterial. The WM is a tried and true vet, the WSM is a good choice for competition shooters because it is efficient with the 190 grain on down. The RUM is the best choice if you are thinking of using the heaviest bullets. I shoot a WSM. I would say that if you are not worried about barrel life and intend to shoot the heavier bullets, and have the long action, then you should pick between the WM and the RUM.

Some say the wsm has less recoil. I question that because the WSM ususally is a little lighter than the wm. If memory serves right, then as far as brass quality goes, the wm has lapua available which is about as good as it gets. Norma makes brass for the WSM. And I believe the best available for the RUM is Nosler (unless you work from the parent case).

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Hey TopShot,

thanks for the reply. I wanted to bring out that because i have a long action, I will be going with a 300WM..and not a 300WSM.Just wanted to see if you still think the 300WM is the better option.

thanks

If I had to pick between the WM and WSM, I would go with the WSM for a few reasons. I would also not build it in the short action because if and when you start handloading the higher BC bullets, you will have to seat them deep and away from the lands to fit in your mag or shoot single shot. I have a WSM that I'm probably going to sell now that I'm going with the RUM. That's not a pitch, just mentioning it.

 

[AtownBcat]

See you learn something every day....i never thought of the fact that you could use a long action for a WSM.

 

[Topshot]

Hey TopShot,

thanks for the reply. I wanted to bring out that because i have a long action, I will be going with a 300WM..and not a 300WSM.Just wanted to see if you still think the 300WM is the better option.

thanks

AtownBcat I think I would still go for the 300WSM rather than the 300WM.

If I was going for a longer case I would go for the RUM, hand load and pick up the extra velocity.

You can make up a more lighter portable rifle in WSM but the RUM would be my pick for a heavy canon.

 

[britz]

If you want to know what difference velocity makes than punch in the numbers in a trajectory calculator like JMB JBM - Calculations - Trajectory

 

[AtownBcat]

hey Britz, thanks for the link. I have saved it in my Fav's...but honestly i don't know what half that stuff means yet...I will keep reading and learning.

 

[britz]

BC = Ballistic coefficient = shows how arrow dynamic a bullet is.

Use the standard G1 drag (G is the drag equation used to make the model)

Velocity speaks for itself.

sight height is the distance from center bore line to center scope line (@1.5")

Zero height is the distance above or below your point of aim the bullet actually hits at the target (IE: 1.5" high at 100 yards if your sight in distance is 100 yards)

Sight offset (only if your scope is not directly above your bore like in the case of lever action side mounted scopes)

Windage and Elevation (leave at zero.. I never play with that one)

Line of sight (leave alone unless you intend to calculate for shooting at extreme angles up or down a mountain)

Cant angle (leave alone unless you tilt your rifle drastically lol)

Wind speed is the crosswind that you want on your print out. 10 is a good round number since it is directly correlated to the amount the bullet is deflected (20 mph will do twice what 10mph and 4 times what 5mph...)

Min and max is self explanitory

Zero range is the distance you shot at when you sighted in (here is where you actually need to use the Zero height) SO if you shot at 200 yards and hit 1 inch high than you enter 200 in the zero range and a "1.0" in the zero height. IF you hit low at 200 than you enter a "-1.0" in the zero height.



Input your relative humidity, altitude, and temp.

The last options relate to your scope adjusts in ... MOA, 1/4" clicks, Mils... Most American scopes are based on the inch per hundred rather than the MOA. Only your best Leupolds Nightforce S$B... will be different.

Happy calculating!

 

[RockyMtnMT]

My opinion is to start w/ the 300rum. I think you can learn the long range game with any caliber. Some just go longer than others. You will have a quality rifle built, build it for the future.

Steve

 

[AtownBcat]

Thanks for the breakdown britz, the picture is starting to come into focus.

I called my local range and found out that the RUM factory ammo is about 15-20$ higher than the WM stuff. I do want to begin hand loading as soon as i can afford the stuff.

 

[britz]

All you "need" to load is a balance scale, decent press, die set. Everything else enhances accuracy and makes life easier. I'm sure you could get a great start for under $250