Help with Tikka Build Questions

[nksmfamjp]

I have a friend looking at options for a Tikka T3X 270 WSM which is basically a good elk rifle, but has a bit too much felt recoil. Kind of thinking through what custom options could be proposed as a solution.

Action…I get it. They are all slick, don't really need tru'd. Cocking force is pretty good, not great. Bolt handles look weak, but are not a struggle, right? Prefits may or may not work, right? I get confused with length…..Is there one length, multiple? If I have a WSM, am I locked into magnum with that bolt….yea, I guess I am. Am I locked into a 3" magnum or how long can I go?

Trigger …..ok…2-2.75 lbs decent. Someone makes a spring, right? Who makes the spring? What do I get with that?

Stocks….it is a T3X now. What are The obvious stock upgrades to get some cheek height, decent recoil pad, ARCA or Pic rail, better stiffness and bedding. What is obvious? Is the recoil lug an issue for bedding and getting a solid rifle?

Barrel…the stock barrel shoots well or well enough. Is it worth threading the muzzle for a brake? I hate changing out a barrel to put a brake on when the barrel is sub-moa. What threads are needed to change to a nut system?

Other thoughts…..I wonder about changing to 6.8 Western and shooting like 140gr bullets….probably no change.

Would be nice to come out $600-$750 poorer with muzzle break, better fitting stock, good recoil pad, bedding, trigger adjust to 2lbs, etc.

Obviously, I'm thinking about more expensive ideas, but those may be outside the desires of my friend.

Thoughts?

 

[Ucsdryder]

I wouldn't touch the trigger. Turn it down and go shoot it. It's a hunting rifle. No need for a super light trigger.

I am a big fan of aftermarket stocks. I really don't like the factory stocks, especially on a magnum. I like the AG composite alpine hunter.

No need to replace the barrel unless you want to suppress it. the pencil barrels don't make a great platform for mounting a barrel.

All of the actions are the same length. The only thing that changes is the bolt stop. Long or short. You can replace either one in 60 seconds. Match the correct magazine to the correct cartridge and you're set. The only issue is a 223 remington which uses a different bolt face.

No need to mess with the bottom plastic, bolt handle, or anything else…unless you don't like your money.

 

[Aloeus]

I have a friend looking at options for a Tikka T3X 270 WSM which is basically a good elk rifle, but has a bit too much felt recoil. Kind of thinking through what custom options could be proposed as a solution.

Action…I get it. They are all slick, don't really need tru'd. Cocking force is pretty good, not great. Bolt handles look weak, but are not a struggle, right? Prefits may or may not work, right? I get confused with length…..Is there one length, multiple? If I have a WSM, am I locked into magnum with that bolt….yea, I guess I am. Am I locked into a 3" magnum or how long can I go?

Trigger …..ok…2-2.75 lbs decent. Someone makes a spring, right? Who makes the spring? What do I get with that?

Stocks….it is a T3X now. What are The obvious stock upgrades to get some cheek height, decent recoil pad, ARCA or Pic rail, better stiffness and bedding. What is obvious? Is the recoil lug an issue for bedding and getting a solid rifle?

Barrel…the stock barrel shoots well or well enough. Is it worth threading the muzzle for a brake? I hate changing out a barrel to put a brake on when the barrel is sub-moa. What threads are needed to change to a nut system?

Other thoughts…..I wonder about changing to 6.8 Western and shooting like 140gr bullets….probably no change.

Would be nice to come out $600-$750 poorer with muzzle break, better fitting stock, good recoil pad, bedding, trigger adjust to 2lbs, etc.

Obviously, I'm thinking about more expensive ideas, but those may be outside the desires of my friend.

Thoughts?

Some of this will reiterate what Ucsdryder said, but:

1. Actions are all the same length (3.4" with factory mags, 3.56" with aics conversions, there's some fringe stuff that will get you more). Short mags like the 270 wsm do really well in a tikka with the bolt stop modded (how I have mine set up). Prefits come shouldered or with a barrel nut. Off the top of my head preferred, X-Cal, McGowan, carbon 6, proof, PVA, and Oregon mountain all do prefits, but I know there are probably 5 more names to add to that list.
2. For a hunting gun I would just adjust it down and call it good, but there's a good number of trigger springs out there, just google it and pick the one you like/is cheapest to ship, they all do about the same thing.
3. The factory stocks are pretty stiff, so there isn't a huge need to upgrade (except the recoil pad, seriously a limbsaver recoil pad is a must for a tikka factory stock, I put one on my 270wsm and it made it quite tolerable, although I did later move to a brake since mine was threaded from factory. There are some cheek risers you can drill your factory stock for, a long with a more vertical grip. Salmon river makes a fantastic arca rail that bolts right in using the existing mounting points on the stock. That's all just factory, there are a solid number of manufacturers who make stocks and chassis for tikka.
4. If it shoots good, I'd wait to at least put a good recoil pad on the factory stock, if not get a new stock, before deciding to replace the barrel. But like I said in #1, plenty of barrel makers. You can also look for take off barrels that are threaded from factory, my roughtech 270wsm was threaded, although its a 1-10 twist.
5. If you're changing barrels, I'd stick with a 270wsm and go with a faster twist and some freebore (that's my plan at least). It'll give you a bit more powder over the 6.8 and with the long action length you don't need to care about COAL.
6. For less than 100$ you can get a good recoil pad, a cheek rest (if you don't mind drilling), a 2lb or less trigger, and you can bed the factory stock. But for a brake you're looking at least 200 ish for a take off 270 wsm roughtech barrel (if you can find one), or 400+ for a prefit barrel. And for a nice aftermarket stock you're probably looking at 500+

Metal bottom metals (lol) exist, and are on my upgrade list at some point, but are not really necessary especially with the factory stock. Look at the mountain tactical magazines for a good metal mag with a touch more space for loading. And if your friend wants to reload, the 128gr Badlands bulldozer bullet (.272 g7 BC) is very hard to beat in a 1-10 twist.

 

[kickemall]

Replace the recoil pad with a Limbsaver although I hear their new pads are pretty good., Turn the trigger down and go kill an elk. And maybe get it in 300wm.

 

[tahoe1305]

I think for the money (especially on sale) the stockys tikka stocks are good if you care about saving some weight (it will effect balance though).

I have both variants. The sporter is 21.5 oz and 23oz if I recall for the VG. The fit isn't perfect (BM sits out 1/8" or so) but functions fine and looks good with a bit of paint on them.

Fwiw, the original stocks with limbsaver are just fine IMO.

 

[Outlaw6.0]

I might as well add my .002. First, at least the way i'm reading it is; your friend is ho-hum with the rifle & kinda wants to upgrade? (I'm totally that dude).

1. Actions don't need trued at all & are all the same length; just change the bolt stop. Bolt handles are upgradable, offered by a handful of manufacturers. Heck, LRI in Sturgis, SD make 100% complete replacement bolts....

Tikka T3 Threaded Bolt Handle Upgrade

Looking for an upgraded Tikka T3 Bolt Handle? Check out the Anarchy Outdoors Tikka Bolt Handle designed for optimal strength and durability. Available in Stainless Steel and Black Nitride.

www.anarchyoutdoors.com

2. Yodave Products makes spring kits for your trigger, AND they are really cheap. I despise heavy triggers & generally immediately replace or tune them to acceptable weights (<1.5lbs). Most are substantially lighter than that (each to their own).

Tikka T3, T3X and T1X spring

cz 452 trigger kits and spring

www.yodaveproducts.com

3. For almost every rifle I own, the factory stock is the first thing that gets removed and tossed in the garbage. I have little to no use for them. The most affordable & usable stock i've found is the KRG Bravo. It's robust (chassis), allows AICS mags, adjustable, upgradable, & did I mention affordable? At $399... and in stock. Though I do think the X-Ray & Whiskey-3 are better looking...

Bravo Chassis – Kinetic Research Group

kineticresearchgroup.com

4. Depending on the barrel contour, it might not be threadable. Tikka barrels are known to perform very well albeit, they are also known to be on the slow side. Like noticeably slower. As stated, you can get one with the nut or without. I prefer without, grab one from a barrel maker you like (along with a vise & action wrench) & screw it on. Here's a shouldered prefit in 6.8 from PBB, $500 (threaded, blued). Not bad.

Tikka T3 / T3x - Prefit Barrel -1"x16P

Prefit barrels for Tikka actions

preferredbarrelblanks.com

This day and age, Tikka is like the Savages of old; you can do pretty much every upgrade imaginable at home. Plus, you start with a smoother, more reliable action.




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