Help with technique

[52449]

I have a Savage bvss-s in 308 that has had some weight added to it. 1.25 # in the fore stock, 1.25 # in the butt and 1.5 # under the action. The hole thing weighs about 16.5 #. My question results from the typical groups I get with this rifle. It will put 6-7 in less than 1/2" and I manage to through 3-4 out of the group. Usually opening up to 1"+. On a rest or with a Harris it always recoils away from my face to the left (left handed). Is this typical or should it be coming straight back? It has a Farrell 20 MOA base so the scope is a ittle high. Is "cheek weld" critical? I'm shooting it semi free recoil. My cheek is just tickling the comb. What should I be paying attention to with grip? Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. I'll attach a picture so you can see what I'm dealing with.

Thanks!

 

[Buffalobob]

There is a certain amount of barrel torque from the bullet and the lands. This will try to rotate the gun at the same time as the forward movement of the bullet exerts a rearward force.

I would experiment with different placement of the shooting hand fingers and thumb.

It is difficult to determine from what you say if the group size increase is just the normal statistical distribution or if there is a problem with your loading technique, shooting form and or gun.

I assume you have the paralax adjusted properly.

 

[52449]

Thanks for the reply,
I'm trying to be very consistant with the reloading. I'm using Lapua 308 brass, 44.0 grains of Varget, 175 SMK, Redding comp. dies, RCBS balance for every round. I adjust the paralax out by moving my head around behind the scope to see if the cross hairs are moving on the target. The groups I'm shooting seem to have a tight spot in the middle with 3-4 way out side. Usually left or right. I should post a picture. Are there any good books on the subject?

 

[Ian M]

I get best accuracy with my .308 rifles when I hold them very firmly, maintain uniform control of the rifle. Lighter recoiling rifles shoot with less firm stock grip and cheekweld, I have to really hold firmly or I get flyers. Secret is to do it with same rearward pull, handgrip, cheekweld each shot. I concentrate on control, check for what feels like uniform contact before releasing the trigger.

Tried less control and groups opened up significantly. That works for me, you might shoot differently but would be easy to compare firm vs lighter grips.
Nice rifle, good luck with your shooting. David Tubb has some books that cover marksmanship I believe.

 

[overbore]

If your cheek comes off the stock as you cycle the bolt, some of the better types use a small piece of tape on the stock as an anchor point for, say the corner of your mouth. If that tape touches the same location on your face shot to shot, you have eliminated that sight change variable. If your rings are high or very high, you need an adjustble comb for prone. Overbore

 

[52449]

Do I want to put side pressure on the grip to offset the jump the rifle takes to the left or just staight back into my shoulder? When it comes to Davis Tubb, I heard he tests his loads at 300 yards using a sling. I know a high power shooter that swears he can shoot better with a sling than off a bench or bipod. It always impresses me seeing a highpower shooter do their stuff.

 

[zingdingo]

I definately want a hard hold (on grip, shoulder, and cheek).

If you haven't read this article, it's decent advice on bipod shooting technique:

http://www.6mmbr.com/TacticalFroggyA1.html

 

[52449]

OK an update with a picture. I loaded up some 175 smk's
with 4.o gr of varget. Velocity was 2700 give or take a
few fps. I payed more attention to a consistent hold and
trigger pull. The rife still jumped to the left but the
group didn't have many odd ball fliers.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m277/52449/PICT0036.jpg
The two in the upper left were the first of 10. Much better
I think. No it's off to confirm load at a much greater
distance. Thanks for the articles and advice!