Help with Model 700 build please

[crittergitter]

I'm reworking my 338 edge. It has a 34" barrel that is around 8 pounds. I have it bedded about 5" in front of the lug to take pressure off the action screws. I have noticed some scuff marks developing in the last inch of that bedding job. I want to free float it completely, but I'm not sure how much stress that will put on the action screws. Can anyone tell me if it would be a mistake to try a free floated setup with that barrel length and weight?

 

[aitrble]

If your tube is that long, a barrel block would be the way to go.

 

[trueblue]

My recommendation would be to cut the barrel to 30" and free float it.

 

[RockZ]

How does it shoot the way it is now?

 

[Kevin Cram]

A 34" 8 lbs. barrel hanging off a Remington is alot for the action screws to handle. But I've seen full 1.250" barrels 30" long hanging off a Remington and they shot just great. Remove the chamber bedding and see how it shoots and go from there.

 

[crittergitter]

It was shooting great until here recently. I have blamed the issue on the scope and am sending it back to Bushnell (Elite 4200 tactical), but I found these pressure points in the bedding while I was diagnosing the problem. I thought I might try free floating the whole thing, but I don't want to over stress the action screws in the process.

 

[specweldtom]

I would leave about 1" of bedding in front of the recoil lug, and relieve the rest so the barrel floats from there out. I would also cut and crown at 30 - 31 inches. If the stock is pillar blocked, I would torque the action screws to 75 inch/lbs. If you want to leave the barrel at 34", the barrel block sounds like a good idea.

Just what I would do if it was mine. Tom

 

[crittergitter]

I would leave about 1" of bedding in front of the recoil lug, and relieve the rest so the barrel floats from there out. I would also cut and crown at 30 - 31 inches. If the stock is pillar blocked, I would torque the action screws to 75 inch/lbs. If you want to leave the barrel at 34", the barrel block sounds like a good idea.

Just what I would do if it was mine. Tom

I have a stubborn drive to be unique. I want to leave it at 34". That only adds about 9 ounces on my particular contour. I may split the difference and just grind out the last inch where the scuff marks are; then try to stiffen the fore end a little for insurance sake. I do have an aluminum bedding block under the action.

Thanks for the help.

 

[trueblue]

I understand your desire to be unique, but that extra 4" of barrel hanging out there only gains you about 60 fps with the 300gr SMK. Be practical and cut it to 30" and be done with it.

 

[alf]

If you're getting marks on only the last inch, I guess I'd question a stress free bedding job.

 

[crittergitter]

If you're getting marks on only the last inch, I guess I'd question a stress free bedding job.

Well, before the scope went south, I was shooting under 2 inch groups at 600 yards with it (300 grain SMK @ 3030 fps). After looking at the bedding, stock design, and marks, I think the marks are the result of twist on the forend when I tote the 20 # rig around by the sling. The marks are 2 horizontal lines, 180 degrees apart on the sides of the bedding job. I've got the crossbolt swivel studs and a barrel heavy gun. I put a long, wide sling on it this year and started carrying it on my right hip with the barrel forward and my right hand using the bipod leg as a handle. I suppose I have put a lot of side to side torque on the forend hiking up the steep hills where I hunt. I think I can fill the bottom of the forend with bedding compound and firm it up some. I was exploring the option of changing stocks to a lighter weight design that has to be completely free floated, but I think that adequately supporting my oversized tube is probably of greatest importance after looking over the responses.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[jarnold37]

With that much of a pry bar-there is a lot of leverage on those 1/4" screws. they can flex and it permits the action to wallow out the bedding. I had that problem with a 30-378 Hall express G action with 1.5" straight taper 30" barrel. It gradually shot worse and I tried to restore accuracy-recrowned and even rechambered-nothing helped. In desperation I tried only thing left-bedding. Didnt think that would help but it did. I rebedded with bisonite (was originally bedded with bisonite with 2" extended in front of recoil lug) and accuracy returned. This was with a big action with no hole in the bottom-the remington 700 has a big hole in bottom and when trigger is pulled your action hooves in the middle (even with bedding out front for support) and wallows out the bedding. By the way-got to noticing the action screws on my Hall G-they were 10-32-way to small-drilled and tapped to 1/4-28. stopped most of my flexing. Your scuff marks may be caused by your action "bending" in the middle. A ramp epoxied in magazine hole will stiffen considerably and a one piece scope base will help a little. Long range hunting guns dont need a magazine anyway.

 

[wvcountryboy]

originally posted by jarnold37: the remington 700 has a big hole in bottom and when trigger is pulled your action hooves in the middle (even with bedding out front for support) and wallows out the bedding.

If you dont mind not being able to find a case long enough to carry your gun in I would keep the 34" I agree, I would say your action is flexing. A davidson ramp is cheap and with a edge you are too long for the magazine anyhow. I would epoxy in a ramp, go with a 1 piece scope base and rebed. If 4" only gives you an extra 60fps (i would be more likely to guess 150fps) thats 60fps, take it if you can.

 

[crittergitter]

If you dont mind not being able to find a case long enough to carry your gun in I would keep the 34" I agree, I would say your action is flexing. A davidson ramp is cheap and with a edge you are too long for the magazine anyhow. I would epoxy in a ramp, go with a 1 piece scope base and rebed. If 4" only gives you an extra 60fps (i would be more likely to guess 150fps) thats 60fps, take it if you can.

I installed a 4" Wyatt magazine box, so I can use the mag. Loaded rounds are 3.97", but they work. You may be right about the flexing action though. I do have a 20 MOA NightForce rail on the top, and a one piece bedding block. If all that is flexing, that might be what wrecked my scope!
I'll see how she shoots when I reassemble everything.

Incidentally, I got a $6 foam camping mat at Wally World and a closeout snowboard case from Sierra for $25. Fold the mat in half, trim the end, slide it in the case, instant oversized gun case!