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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Help me build my first Long Rnage Rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="trebark" data-source="post: 291905" data-attributes="member: 19172"><p>One of the great things about the Stevens and Savage rifles is that you can change barrels yourself. I'm not familiar with Pac Nor barrels, but generally speaking after-market barrels tend to perform better than factory barrels. </p><p> </p><p>Before I changed barrels though, I would encourage you to get a better stock than what comes from the factory on a Stevens. Then I would have the action bedded.</p><p> </p><p>The rationale being that you have a pretty good chance of getting a decent factory barrel that will shoot 1moa or less.</p><p> </p><p>I can almost promise you though that the factory stock is a piece of tupperware - meaning you will be able to twist it. That's not a stable platform.</p><p> </p><p>A decent stock, like an HS Precision, will cost you $200~$300 dollars. </p><p> </p><p>Here's a write-up of another rifle of mine: <a href="http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/" target="_blank">http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/</a> It has an HS Precision stock.</p><p> </p><p>As an FYI, I've given you links to my rifles because both projects started out much like you are. I wanted a rifle that got me into the game right out of the box. From there I built and built...</p><p> </p><p>Here's the break-down on my 308.</p><p> </p><p>Rem700SPS: $500</p><p>SSS Stock: $300</p><p>Bedding, crown, trigger: $250</p><p>Scope: $165</p><p>Bases/Rings: $50</p><p> </p><p>Total: $1265 (holy crap...this is the first time I've added it up)</p><p> </p><p>I now have plans to add a muzzle brake and have the lugs lapped and bolt face squared. </p><p> </p><p>Like I said before, it's an addiction.</p><p> </p><p>In terms of a rate of twist for a 308, Remington cuts their barrels 1:12, Savage cuts 1:10 and not long ago I read about a rifle with a custom barrel that was 1:11. Generally speaking, the heavier the bullet, the faster you need to twist the barrel.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="trebark, post: 291905, member: 19172"] One of the great things about the Stevens and Savage rifles is that you can change barrels yourself. I'm not familiar with Pac Nor barrels, but generally speaking after-market barrels tend to perform better than factory barrels. Before I changed barrels though, I would encourage you to get a better stock than what comes from the factory on a Stevens. Then I would have the action bedded. The rationale being that you have a pretty good chance of getting a decent factory barrel that will shoot 1moa or less. I can almost promise you though that the factory stock is a piece of tupperware - meaning you will be able to twist it. That's not a stable platform. A decent stock, like an HS Precision, will cost you $200~$300 dollars. Here's a write-up of another rifle of mine: [URL]http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/[/URL] It has an HS Precision stock. As an FYI, I've given you links to my rifles because both projects started out much like you are. I wanted a rifle that got me into the game right out of the box. From there I built and built... Here's the break-down on my 308. Rem700SPS: $500 SSS Stock: $300 Bedding, crown, trigger: $250 Scope: $165 Bases/Rings: $50 Total: $1265 (holy crap...this is the first time I've added it up) I now have plans to add a muzzle brake and have the lugs lapped and bolt face squared. Like I said before, it's an addiction. In terms of a rate of twist for a 308, Remington cuts their barrels 1:12, Savage cuts 1:10 and not long ago I read about a rifle with a custom barrel that was 1:11. Generally speaking, the heavier the bullet, the faster you need to twist the barrel. [/QUOTE]
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Help me build my first Long Rnage Rifle
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