Help: .257 a.i. won't fireof doing such work

[wildcat westerner]

Hello,
In a remote area, I could use some professional help. I have a Remington bolt action with factory barrel in .257 A.I. I was given 300 rounds of brass for suitable fireforming to the improved case, but cannot since the weapon will not fire presently. I have disassembled bolt and cleaned it, and find firing pin protrusion to be .0365, which appears tiny,compared to most other bolt actions I have. The bolt interior is clean now. I have all this brass ready to be fireformed and gunsmiths near me (2 hrs) have waiting periods that can run over 6 months.
Does anybody have a common sense approach to solving this problem? I note the base of the pin that contacts the forward part of the spring is a full .250 thick. Would a gunsmith just chuck the firing pin into their lathe and Trim a few thousandths off this face, allowing more forward travel by he spring and thus more protrusion? I am asking this in ignorance, but do have a master tool and die maker within 1/2 mile of me, capable Of doing such work.What is normal protrusion for a Remington bolt?
Thanks, in advance.

WW

 

[Edd]

Are you getting a dimple in the primer?

Do you have a headspace gauge?

 

[ShtrRdy]

Since you need to fire form brass, you may as well put some lite load together with the bullet seated out long so that the bullet starts into the rifling and pushes the head of the case into the bolt face. I think this configuration will be able to fire with your 0.035" firing pin.

 

[wildcat westerner]

Hello,
Thanks for the well meant questions. I have loaded all 300 cases and their Bullets fit into the lands to the point closing the bolt meets some resistance. Even with this situation the firing pin does not even touch the primer, when I attempt to shoot the weapon.
I do not know what the OAL of what this firing pin mechanism should be, nor do I have a headspace gauge.
WW

 

[ShtrRdy]

Okay, how about this -- if this is a Remington 700, take the bolt out of the gun and press in on the ejector plunger. See if the plunger can be pressed into the bolt face all the way.

If the plunger test passes then take one of the cases, ( an unloaded one would be safest ), and see if you can press it into the bolt face by snapping it under the extractor. With this test we're checking to see if the extractor is preventing the head of the case to come in contact with the bolt face.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Looking at some online discussions it sounds like a Rem 700 firing pin should protrude 0.037" to 0.055". Some of that dimension has to cover a short headspace case length.

 

[Crunchy]

Could it be the J lock on the bolt shrowd?

 

[wildcat westerner]

Hello all, following suggestions here I have depressed the plunger and found I can push it below the surface of the bolt face.
Another factor: the bolt hasa Sako extractor. The depth from the inner "Claw" of the sako extractor is .0810 to the base of the bolt face. The rim of a cartidge meant to be encased by the extractoris .0415. Somehow the extra .040, the difference between the claw extractor and the case rim width, must be a part of the cause as to why this rifle is not firing. THe OAL of the complete firing pin spring assembly is 6.2325 as near as I can measure.

WW

 

[swat]

sounds like a headspace issue, or the chamber is cut to deep.
first thing make sure you clean out the firing pin hole, i had one that had a load of melted brass from a bad handload, that would slow the firing pin down enough that it would not shoot. also check that there is not carbon build up down deep inside the bolt body
you also need to make sure your primer's are not seated to deep in the pocket.
had a bad trigger one time that somehow was not letting the gun fire, police swat rifle with over 500 rds. in two days.
you need to go back to the basic's, and eliminate one thing at a time. will it shoot a factory loaded round.

 

[wildcat westerner]

D

sounds like a headspace issue, or the chamber is cut to deep.
first thing make sure you clean out the firing pin hole, i had one that had a load of melted brass from a bad handload, that would slow the firing pin down enough that it would not shoot. also check that there is not carbon build up down deep inside the bolt body
you also need to make sure your primer's are not seated to deep in the pocket.
had a bad trigger one time that somehow was not letting the gun fire, police swat rifle with over 500 rds. in two days.
you need to go back to the basic's, and eliminate one thing at a time. will it shoot a factory loaded round.

 

[wildcat westerner]

Hello ,
Chamber was recut to A.I. In 1978 and has worked well since. Primers seated not too deep.Bolt now clean as can be, but will not fire. Will be taking it to a gunsmith on Saturday.

Thanks

 

[swat]

good luck let us know the outcome. great caliber

 

[ultraedge]

Remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt and look inside the bolt body with a light for debris that may be preventing the firing pin from going fully forward. This commonly happens after piercing a primer. If there is debris it can be removed with a metal pick or a piece of wire.

 

[Edd]

Hello ,
Chamber was recut to A.I. In 1978 and has worked well since. Primers seated not too deep.Bolt now clean as can be, but will not fire. Will be taking it to a gunsmith on Saturday.

Thanks

What was done to the rifle between the time it was working and when it stopped working?