Headspace Question

[Stammster]

^^^ unnecessary if you have a fired case in that chamber and a comparator - which the OP has.
He didn't set up his die wrong, the seller he bought the brass from did.

 

[Footsie80]

You guys do realize the OP is in remote Canada, just starting out reloading. The solutions you are proposing to remedy qty 100 previously fired brass (presumably standard factory grade) will cost 2-4X what he paid ($50) - by blowing out the shoulders, buying extra dies, annealing, etc.

It may already have the start of case head separation issues if the seller sold him more than 1X brass already - which has no way to correct.

Yeah, I have a fair bit of kit for a beginner and a precision machining background so I'm no stranger to accuracy. That said, I didn't buy high-end dies because I wanted to ensure I'd enjoy the hobby and my shooting volume is fairly low.

The cases in question are Federal. 50 brass and 50 nickel plated. I've reached out to the vendor and will likely hear back Monday. I'd be happy if they gave me a store credit to spend on some new brass.

 

[Stammster]

If you don't get a credit, I personally would junk that brass. Otherwise you'll be looking for YouTube video or searching this site on how to remove a separated case from your chamber - at best. At worse, a serious safety issue with high pressure gas escaping right near your face.

 

[Footsie80]

If you don't get a credit, I personally would junk that brass. Otherwise you'll be looking for YouTube video or searching this site on how to remove a separated case from your chamber - at best. At worse, a serious safety issue with high pressure gas escaping right near your face.

Yeah, I'm leaning that way. I'll chalk it up to a life lesson and buy new brass when needed.

 

[sawzall]

Federal brass is crap anyway. Factory once fired usually has loose primer pockets. I'd turf it and buy new.

 

[SSgt G Cody]

If it's only .010" undersize, I wouldn't worry about it! Working up loads and matching chambers, I've used up to .030" undersize brass many times with no problem. I would anneal it first. Fire-forming in a Bolt Action chamber is pretty safe, and closely matches your gun's size! Do this in a bolt action, NOT in an autoloader though!

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

You can safely salvage the brass by sizing the neck up one calibre, then sizing back to normal calibre leaving a false shoulder which the case will headspace off.

How does one "size up?" Doesn't this require a die for the larger caliber?

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

Yeah, I'm leaning that way. I'll chalk it up to a life lesson and buy new brass when needed.

And don't buy anymore nickel plated brass.

 

[MagnumManiac]

How does one "size up?" Doesn't this require a die for the larger caliber?

Many die makers sell tapered expanders, you just fit that, size your brass and remove the larger expander or use a larger die to expand the necks.
I use tapered expanders in many of my forming dies, so this is simple for me.
Going from 30-06 to 338-06 is done in one pass, but going from 30 to 375 requires 3 steps to do it without hurting the necks.
Anyway, it's your choice, I have given you the safe option.

Cheers.

 

[MagnumManiac]

You guys do realize the OP is in remote Canada, just starting out reloading. The solutions you are proposing to remedy qty 100 previously fired brass (presumably standard factory grade) will cost 2-4X what he paid ($50) - by blowing out the shoulders, buying extra dies, annealing, etc.

It may already have the start of case head separation issues if the seller sold him more than 1X brass already - which has no way to correct.

You do realise I have given the safe remedy for salvaging brass with excessive headspace?
There is NO WAY that I would even fire those brass cases in ANY of my rifles. A head separation is almost guaranteed, not just a possibility.

Cheers.
P.S.
Head separations are no where near as dangerous as the interweb makes out. The case pulls in two right at the end of the burn as the case shrinks away from the bolt face. It is almost a non event pressure wise, which is why you rarely see sooting anywhere but around the crack/separation point. Most cases come out quite easily too. Jam the next round in and the front section comes out with it.

 

[nealm66]

I wouldn't jump too soon on the guy that sold the brass to you. Waiting on some 30-378 dies but this is 2 different brands of brass never fired I was given to work with from a friend I'm doing load work up for

 

[nealm66]

Those are from the guy he paid to do load work up. The brand he chose to use is 11-13 thousands shorter than the other brand as near as I can tell without a good way of measuring from the belt. The longer brand once fired only grew 1k. The shorter brand once fired was still 6-8k away from longer. Sad thing, he purchased a bunch of the short brass. Going to call the manufacturer and see if it's a bad run but might be in spec with min max of chamber, haven't looked it up yet

 

[FEENIX]

You guys do realize the OP is in remote Canada, just starting out reloading. The solutions you are proposing to remedy qty 100 previously fired brass (presumably standard factory grade) will cost 2-4X what he paid ($50) - by blowing out the shoulders, buying extra dies, annealing, etc.

It may already have the start of case head separation issues if the seller sold him more than 1X brass already - which has no way to correct.

This is why "I" do not buy previously fired brass unless I know my sources. My non-reloader friends usually give them to me.

 

[TRexF16]

Ask around among your shooting friends in your remote area and see if anyone has a .35 Whelen or .338-06 die they will loan you. (I reckon a .358 Win or .338 Federal die would work too.
Anneal your case necks (all you need is a propane torch or even a candle - plenty of online instructions).
Then run the whole hundred cases over the expander ball in the borrowed die to neck them up to .358 or .338, and give the die back to its owner.
Now you can carefully sneak up on the perfect fit in your chamber by sizing them back down to a crush fit with your 30-06 die.
This is the no-cost option that will save all these cases for you. From there, you can fire-form them without even needing a bullet using the "Cream of Wheat" (COW) method. Google that too for instructions - I do all my .35 Whelen Improved cases using the COW method.
Jamming a bullet in the lands with the cases as is would work too.
I know all the above has already been suggested, I just wanted to expand a little on it.

Good luck with it.
Rex