Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Getting sharp lines when bedding the action?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 1998985" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>Hello Bob, I am curious about what you are trying to show in the first photo? As for the dremel grabbing and destroying, I use a sanding bob, 1/2 inch diameter, and when I sand I always sand so the rotation of the bob is always sanding up towards the area that you are sanding. I understand what you are saying as I have a very nice Ruger stock that has one of those grabs in it at the fore end; that's called experience. I filled the gouge in with epoxy, unless you are looking for it's not really noticeable, and....it's a hunting rifle. When sanding up it takes some practice because although it may be easier to sand into the material, it only takes one grab and you are in trouble. When I mark for the clearance on the barrel channel where the stock meets the barrel (steel), I use a fine pointed magic marker that I run up against the barrel and mark the stock. I have tried the best of masking tape, but have found that the tape will move or come unstuck. From that point I sand out until there's very little of the mark left from the magic marker. After I have the stock material removed, I then run a piece of masking tape so that it masks the stock right up the stock where it has been clearanced. Any tape that laps over into the barrel channel I remove with a sharp Exacto knife, a razor blade from a razor knife should also work. From that point I "ALWAYS" cover the entire stock from the back of the floor plate forward to the end of the fore end. I have found that epoxy "will" always find its way onto that stock, especially if you have a blow out where your hands end up getting into the epoxy. So......always tape the entire stock from the grip forward. Then I place putty for a dam I always set the putty before setting the barrel into the stock, pull the barrel out of the stock to make sure the putty will hold when you seat the barrel into the epoxied stock. Put a piece of tape over the putty on the fore end to hold the dam in place, shouldn't have to, but just a precaution to prevent a blow out there. When everything is ready to bed, I then take a small paint brush like one that is used to paint model cars (like when we were kids) and put a couple of coats on the tape where the tape meets the barrel channel, this will make peeling the tape off easier after the epoxy has cured. I have a woodworking shop and will make some wooden putty knifes that are about 1 inch wide, 1/8th inch thick and about 6 inches long. I then sharpen the end like a chisel and use this to spread the epoxy where the barrel meets the stock, and also to remove as much excess, run out as I possibly can. And......one last trick that I use is an "irrigation syringe" filled with epoxy so that epoxy can be forced into the barrel channel/recoil lug recess or places where you have to fill in. An irrigation syringe will save you a lot of time and help make a really nice job. Irrigation syringes look just like a large needle, plastic syringe, they can be purchased at any prescription center/drug store. The irrigation syringe acts like a miniature calking gun that you can fill up. They can be reused for future bedding jobs once the epoxy cures. Use two layers of plumber tape starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug all the way out at least 3/4 inches past the fore end, then I give all of the steep a couple of coats of Brownells release agent. I have read where guys put a couple of coats of auto wax on the steel before they bed, I have never done this but will try it on my next bedding job, it certainly cannot hurt. I have also read where tape is place on the front of the recoil lug, this I have never done either. Also make certain that you have filled any indents or holes that epoxy can flow into before setting any steel into the epoxy, if you don't take precautions here getting the barrel out of the stock "will" be a challenge. I found this out when I missed a small indent on a Ruger 77 receiver that has the Ruger logo in it. The indent was about 3/16ths in diameter and may .020 thousands deep, it was challenging to get out. If there's a hole that it questionable fill it with putty, putty is a whole lot easier than epoxy to get out. This dissertation is over!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 1998985, member: 69192"] Hello Bob, I am curious about what you are trying to show in the first photo? As for the dremel grabbing and destroying, I use a sanding bob, 1/2 inch diameter, and when I sand I always sand so the rotation of the bob is always sanding up towards the area that you are sanding. I understand what you are saying as I have a very nice Ruger stock that has one of those grabs in it at the fore end; that's called experience. I filled the gouge in with epoxy, unless you are looking for it's not really noticeable, and....it's a hunting rifle. When sanding up it takes some practice because although it may be easier to sand into the material, it only takes one grab and you are in trouble. When I mark for the clearance on the barrel channel where the stock meets the barrel (steel), I use a fine pointed magic marker that I run up against the barrel and mark the stock. I have tried the best of masking tape, but have found that the tape will move or come unstuck. From that point I sand out until there's very little of the mark left from the magic marker. After I have the stock material removed, I then run a piece of masking tape so that it masks the stock right up the stock where it has been clearanced. Any tape that laps over into the barrel channel I remove with a sharp Exacto knife, a razor blade from a razor knife should also work. From that point I "ALWAYS" cover the entire stock from the back of the floor plate forward to the end of the fore end. I have found that epoxy "will" always find its way onto that stock, especially if you have a blow out where your hands end up getting into the epoxy. So......always tape the entire stock from the grip forward. Then I place putty for a dam I always set the putty before setting the barrel into the stock, pull the barrel out of the stock to make sure the putty will hold when you seat the barrel into the epoxied stock. Put a piece of tape over the putty on the fore end to hold the dam in place, shouldn't have to, but just a precaution to prevent a blow out there. When everything is ready to bed, I then take a small paint brush like one that is used to paint model cars (like when we were kids) and put a couple of coats on the tape where the tape meets the barrel channel, this will make peeling the tape off easier after the epoxy has cured. I have a woodworking shop and will make some wooden putty knifes that are about 1 inch wide, 1/8th inch thick and about 6 inches long. I then sharpen the end like a chisel and use this to spread the epoxy where the barrel meets the stock, and also to remove as much excess, run out as I possibly can. And......one last trick that I use is an "irrigation syringe" filled with epoxy so that epoxy can be forced into the barrel channel/recoil lug recess or places where you have to fill in. An irrigation syringe will save you a lot of time and help make a really nice job. Irrigation syringes look just like a large needle, plastic syringe, they can be purchased at any prescription center/drug store. The irrigation syringe acts like a miniature calking gun that you can fill up. They can be reused for future bedding jobs once the epoxy cures. Use two layers of plumber tape starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug all the way out at least 3/4 inches past the fore end, then I give all of the steep a couple of coats of Brownells release agent. I have read where guys put a couple of coats of auto wax on the steel before they bed, I have never done this but will try it on my next bedding job, it certainly cannot hurt. I have also read where tape is place on the front of the recoil lug, this I have never done either. Also make certain that you have filled any indents or holes that epoxy can flow into before setting any steel into the epoxy, if you don't take precautions here getting the barrel out of the stock "will" be a challenge. I found this out when I missed a small indent on a Ruger 77 receiver that has the Ruger logo in it. The indent was about 3/16ths in diameter and may .020 thousands deep, it was challenging to get out. If there's a hole that it questionable fill it with putty, putty is a whole lot easier than epoxy to get out. This dissertation is over!! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Getting sharp lines when bedding the action?
Top