FN PBR?

mattj

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Jun 27, 2007
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I've been lurking here for a while, but this is my first post. I'm starting to think seriously about putting together my first "precision" deer/elk/long range target rifle, and thought I'd get your collective thoughts.

I've pretty much decided on .300 WSM for a variety of reasons, and am shooting for a rifle-only weight of around 9 lbs (don't want to lug much more than that around). My target budget will be about $1500 for the rifle itself.

I've been looking into what rifle to start with, and I keep coming back to the FN PBR XP in .300 WSM. The weight is right, I've heard decent things about the full-aluminum bed hogue stocks, and I like the pre-64 style action. Plus, I have kind of a soft spot for FN, as I love my FAL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It looks like you can get these things for around $800-900, then I'd give it to a smith to true, glass bed, etc. with the remainder of my rifle budget.

Am I on the right rack here? I've read one pretty positive review on the PBR (albeit in .308). I know their SPR is probably a better gun, but it's also 12+ lbs, and would leave me less money to give the smithy. Once concern I do have about the PBR is that the twist rate is 1 in 12" -- will that be enough to stabilize say a 180gr bullet at longer ranges with the 24" barrel?

Appreciate any feedback!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I My target budget will be about $1500 for the rifle itself.


It looks like you can get these things for around $800-900, then I'd give it to a smith to true, glass bed, etc. with the remainder of my rifle budget.

Am I on the right rack here? I've read one pretty positive review on the PBR (albeit in .308). I know their SPR is probably a better gun, but it's also 12+ lbs, and would leave me less money to give the smithy. Once concern I do have about the PBR is that the twist rate is 1 in 12" -- will that be enough to stabilize say a 180gr bullet at longer ranges with the 24" barrel?


[/ QUOTE ]

Welcome aboard. First thing is sooner or later youll have to forget the "target budget" unless you have a very stong willed comptroller. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Re more money for the smithy. I'd get the rifle and wring it out well to see how it does "out of the box" before even thinking about truing etc. Hey, it may not need it. However, pillar, skim bedding and floating the barrel may be a good initial thing to do.

If it doesn't then don't start the smithy work until that barrel is shot out. That will allow more money to be put into glass and stuff.

I know nothing about the 12 twist and 180s. There are those that do hangin' around here someplace.

I'd say you are headed in a decent direction.

Good luck.
 
you'll be fine with a 12 twist and 180's. it'll shoot a 200 with your combo, maybe a 210 but you'll be on the edge around there.
 
Appreciate your replies and advice gentlemen -- it's good to know I'm looking in a sane direction.

- Matt
 
I just bought a Tikka 300 wsm and I like it, but I have to say that you will likely have a hard time loading anything heavier than 180 because of the short action and limited case capacity.

As far as accuracy goes, the rifle makes much more difference than the cal.

I also agree with the other post, try the gun out before you start spending lots of money on it. It all depends on what kind of accuracy you want to get. My out of the box rifle will get half inch groups with certain loads.
 
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