First Long Range Hunting Build

Joined
Aug 10, 2009
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19
I have came to a point were I am ready to really get into long range hunting, shooting, and ballistics and with that am starting to put together my first build. Wanted to lay it out to you guys and see what you think.

First of all, like most Im on a budget (raising a family) but at the same time want the best I can get for my money. I am planning on about 1k with out scope. The Rifle will be for long range deer, antelope, sheep (if ever drawn), and occasional elk if I had too (I have a .300 weatherby for serious elk hunting). I would like to learn and practice out to a 1000 yards on paper, but probably would consider this a max 800 yard hunting rifle. This is what I have came up with so far....

*6.5X284 Norma
*Stevens 200 short action ($200)
*ER Shaw Replacement barrel, threaded, chambered Varmit Contour .850" ($160.00)
*Savage 10 B&C Medalist Varmit/Tactical Stock, black w/ grey webbing ($230)
*Rifle Basix Trigger ($100)
*Gunsmith Labor, flute barrel, screw in, adjust/check head spacing, duracoat reciever and barrel matte black ($200)

That puts together a pretty nice rifle that should shoot good for about $900.00. I do plan on bedding and free floating myself as I have done this numerous times and know what Im doing.

I would like to shoot Berger 140 VLD bullets as I think this would work just fine on lighter boned deer, antelope, sheep type game. And with 26" of barrel should get good velocities.

Lastly would come scope rings and bases. I want to get the rifle built first and then move forward, but at this point I do really like the SWFA SS 10X42 scope for bout $300.00, but I am SO hesitant on a fixed power scope for a hunting rifle. Problem is I don't think I can clear more than about that price for my optic at this time.
 
What part of ID are you in? I know a guy in the Treasure valley that Cerakotes for $50 per barrelled action and it's way more durable than duracoat.
 
Im in Nampa, would be interested in cerakote and meeting the person you speak of.
I'm jealous. I love that part of Idaho. I've done a lot of bird hunting around Boise, Meridian, and Weiser.

You should be able to put together a decent rig as you describe above. My only question mark would be in using the Stevens action vs rem or savage as parts are going to likely be an issue for you at some point.

10x is adequate for most things out to about 500yds for a good shooter, but beyond that even a deer sized target starts looking pretty small.

If you watch the classifide ads here and keep an eye on ebay you can occasionally find a nice 6-18x vari x II for the same money you'll spend on the SWFA fixed power. Keep an eye on Cabela's as well as occasionally they run some great sales on Leupold.

BTW I've also seen some awesom Mulies and Elk along the River there, so good hunting.
 
Here is a question, what do you think of possibly designating this as a target, deer, antelope rifle only and switching it to a 6.5x47 lapua. with the 26' barrel, should be able to get 2900 FPS with 130 berger vld.
 
Here is a question, what do you think of possibly designating this as a target, deer, antelope rifle only and switching it to a 6.5x47 lapua. with the 26' barrel, should be able to get 2900 FPS with 130 berger vld.
If you are going that route I'd seriously suggest going with the .260 rem or 6.5 creedmore. Both will give you slightly better performance and be much cheaper to shoot in the long run.
 
I have came to a point were I am ready to really get into long range hunting, shooting, and ballistics and with that am starting to put together my first build. Wanted to lay it out to you guys and see what you think.

First of all, like most Im on a budget (raising a family) but at the same time want the best I can get for my money. I am planning on about 1k with out scope. The Rifle will be for long range deer, antelope, sheep (if ever drawn), and occasional elk if I had too (I have a .300 weatherby for serious elk hunting). I would like to learn and practice out to a 1000 yards on paper, but probably would consider this a max 800 yard hunting rifle. This is what I have came up with so far....

*6.5X284 Norma
*Stevens 200 short action ($200)
*ER Shaw Replacement barrel, threaded, chambered Varmit Contour .850" ($160.00)
*Savage 10 B&C Medalist Varmit/Tactical Stock, black w/ grey webbing ($230)
*Rifle Basix Trigger ($100)
*Gunsmith Labor, flute barrel, screw in, adjust/check head spacing, duracoat reciever and barrel matte black ($200)

That puts together a pretty nice rifle that should shoot good for about $900.00. I do plan on bedding and free floating myself as I have done this numerous times and know what Im doing.

I would like to shoot Berger 140 VLD bullets as I think this would work just fine on lighter boned deer, antelope, sheep type game. And with 26" of barrel should get good velocities.

Lastly would come scope rings and bases. I want to get the rifle built first and then move forward, but at this point I do really like the SWFA SS 10X42 scope for bout $300.00, but I am SO hesitant on a fixed power scope for a hunting rifle. Problem is I don't think I can clear more than about that price for my optic at this time.
Found this link over and Sniper's Hide.

Extensive SWFA-SS Group Buy. Incredible Savings!!! - Sniper's Hide Forums

If you want to go with the SWFA scope this would save you considerable money on a nice package deal.
 
I'd say you are spot in with your choices of cartridge, parts and pieces. Having raised 7 curtain climbers I understand the budget thing.:)

One recommendation and one consideration:

I'd consider running a Tubb's Final Finish process through the Shaw barrel. I understand they are not lapped though not positive. The Shaw barrels I have had were performers. I mention the Final Finish thought as I did it on a new Remmy 338 RUM barrel which shoots lights out. My sin of omission was that I didn't check accuracy prior to the Final Finish. Note: I ran half the process not using the two courser bullets.

Secondly: The SuperSniper will do you well. 10X is enough to make those long shots. I had a SS and loved it, that is, until I got into the steep mountains with their shadows. Things went to hell in a hand basket quite quickly. Light conditions rendered my extreme magnum useless. I was in the north-south running mountains along the North Fork of the Salmon. The East-West tendency :rolleyes: of the sun made shooting LR to the east undoable until after 10 AM. Sun set was bad also.

Just some things to ponder.

Have fun and good shooting.....
 
Im in Nampa, would be interested in cerakote and meeting the person you speak of.


Practically neighbors. I'd like to invite you to join us at Boise Shooters I go by the same handle there and am the reloading forum moderator. I'd be happy to introduce you to my friend and you might be shocked at what he is doing with the .260 Rem.

I think your on the right track with the 6.5 bore, but there are alot of great 6.5 cartridges. The 6.5x47 seems like it runs at rather high pressure in order ot get those high velocities. I'd lean towards a little larger chamber and get into the 2900fps range with 130s and less pressure.
 
nice to know there are a few more local boys out there that like to stretch the distance. sounds like a nice build project. you could put the money set asside for the gunsmith part and buy a barrel nut tool, headspacing guage, and barrel blocks and do the install yourself. it is really easy. I put my Savage Model 16 action on a 30 in barrel and built my 338 edge. I did all of the work myself and found I really enjoyed it. the gun shoots outstanding. good luck with the build. I am really liking the 6.5 cartridges more and more. my next build will be a 6.5 284.

By the way I just replaced my accutrigger with rifle basics Sav 2. what a great trigger. very easy to understand instructional video on how to install yourself also. great little project within the project.

take care and good luck on your build
 
dont be afraid of the SS 10X......great scope and not just for the money. i have made side by side comparisons with several name brands IE: nightforce/leopold/bushnell/ and it was never found wanting. the 10X is plenty of power to hold for head shots @ 1000yds on game. also think your choice of caliber is perfect for what you plan to hunt and i agree with the above poster that you should consider doing the work yourself. gives you a great feeling to know you have built your own precision rifle. read Jerry Teo's article about longrange rifle on a budget. AJ
 
I'm going to put in for the Nikon Buckmaster 4.5x14x40. It is a really nice scope for the money. I've owned one for about 5yrs now and love it.

Tank
 
ER Shaw barrels are hit and miss. I have used them for years and have some top shooters and some tomato stakes. More bad ones than other barrel makers. I would spend the gunsmith money truing your action and getting your action perfect and square. Pac-Nor does excellent work threading barrels to screw in recievers. They have excellent barrels and can send you one that you can screw in yourself saving money. Go with the 6.5-284 or 6.5-06 AI. the '06 AI is faster and nearly the equal of the 264 win mag while still being easy to shoot and load for. I like it better than the 284 case for the extra velocity but either is fine. Do not go below these two in performance if you want to shoot big game to 1000 yards.

As far as scopes I have a couple 4-16 Nikon Monarchs with mil dot reticles for $359 shipped to you. These are new in the box. They are a much better scope than the one you mentioned. Or there are several other better ones in that price range.
 
Just to through this out there but you can have a Savage model 10 predator hunter max 1 in a 260 for less money and no parts swapping. It's a heavy fluted varmint barrel, Accutrigger and stock, add some Lapua brass and 140 Bergers and your GTG.

I would look at the Stockade Gun stocks p-dog special, a very little finish work if you buy the money saver for $235. I have both the B&C and P-Dog in hand and the B&C is just a club compared to the P-Dog, only kicker is a 16 week wait but its worth it IMO.
 
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