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FireNock on TAC15 arrow
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<blockquote data-quote="BKM" data-source="post: 861679" data-attributes="member: 71899"><p>OK, here is what I did. Cut the picatinny rail off back to where the HHA optimizer just has room to attach. You won't need it anyway as long as you intend to leave the optimizer on the bow. This will give you plenty of room for fletching clearance. Now strip your arrows and refletch them with 3 fletch low profile 3 inch vanes. Turn the cock feather up. You can also put a high degree of twist in the fletching. This will do wonders to stabilize your arrows. I did this to my Elite and it's working great. Paper tuned in only a few shots. No clearance problems between vanes and cables either. Not sure the 3 inch vanes will stabilize a fixed blade broadhead though. I shoot 85 gr mechanicals so I can't say about the fixed blades. I doubt it. I also have a drop away on my Elite. No more torn up shabby looking fletching. Hope this helps. Let me know.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BKM, post: 861679, member: 71899"] OK, here is what I did. Cut the picatinny rail off back to where the HHA optimizer just has room to attach. You won't need it anyway as long as you intend to leave the optimizer on the bow. This will give you plenty of room for fletching clearance. Now strip your arrows and refletch them with 3 fletch low profile 3 inch vanes. Turn the cock feather up. You can also put a high degree of twist in the fletching. This will do wonders to stabilize your arrows. I did this to my Elite and it's working great. Paper tuned in only a few shots. No clearance problems between vanes and cables either. Not sure the 3 inch vanes will stabilize a fixed blade broadhead though. I shoot 85 gr mechanicals so I can't say about the fixed blades. I doubt it. I also have a drop away on my Elite. No more torn up shabby looking fletching. Hope this helps. Let me know. [/QUOTE]
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FireNock on TAC15 arrow
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