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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Duplicate Chronograph results
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<blockquote data-quote="MNbogboy" data-source="post: 662735" data-attributes="member: 18849"><p>I agree that a cheap digital is a castrophy waiting to happen....I have always used beam scales (even in the prototype auto loading scales I built in the eighties)...Accuracy of any scale is the care you put into operation, calibration and maintenance...I have had several beams including a nice 1010 that I used in my auto scales but that one disappeared long ago.....My $11.95(70s price) Bonanza Model C is accurate as I will ever need I can set it to tenths and easily weigh to the a half of kernal everytime....Proper care of the knife and blocks will help it last a lifetime....I had to "stone" the knife once after it was dropped....keep them clean and don't leave bouncing on zero...The nice thing about a free scale is you can trickle slowly up to zero and still read a "kernal"....those magnetic dampened scales will normally not bounce right back into motion after a "kernal" drop once they are laying on zero...Thats why it works best for me to read the "bounce" with a magnetically damped scale.....BTW I had a large electro-magnet that I was able to demagnetize most of the dampening effect on the 10-10...made it far easier for me to maintain precision when I had it.....</p><p> </p><p>Dust on any part of the beam will change its calibration as well as its operation...Keep them covered and make sure they are dust free before use...</p><p>Always keep the knife & blocks clean....</p><p> </p><p>Any scale including some of the better digitals can give you "false" readings which are actually stray air movement barely or almost not detectable by a person....This gave me fits for a while when I was younger when I had electric baseboard heat in one of my reloading rooms.....A forced air furnace will make any scale wander no matter what part of the room you are in....</p><p> </p><p>One must also pay attention to the side thrust bearings and the relationship with the beam...Any "stray" drag will affect the reading...When checking calibration with check weights pay attention to this....Use more than one check weight and also check operation at extreme ends of the beam movement. </p><p> </p><p>My need for speed has long past along with my youth and now it seems my joints too...It gets tedious and downright uncomfortable sitting at the bench for hours weighing each load down to the kernal without the help of my automatic powder scale...I am only shooting once or twice a week now (10-20 rnds/session)...So my bench time is only 2 to 3 hours a week.....Hopefully my upcoming hip replacement will cure that....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MNbogboy, post: 662735, member: 18849"] I agree that a cheap digital is a castrophy waiting to happen....I have always used beam scales (even in the prototype auto loading scales I built in the eighties)...Accuracy of any scale is the care you put into operation, calibration and maintenance...I have had several beams including a nice 1010 that I used in my auto scales but that one disappeared long ago.....My $11.95(70s price) Bonanza Model C is accurate as I will ever need I can set it to tenths and easily weigh to the a half of kernal everytime....Proper care of the knife and blocks will help it last a lifetime....I had to "stone" the knife once after it was dropped....keep them clean and don't leave bouncing on zero...The nice thing about a free scale is you can trickle slowly up to zero and still read a "kernal"....those magnetic dampened scales will normally not bounce right back into motion after a "kernal" drop once they are laying on zero...Thats why it works best for me to read the "bounce" with a magnetically damped scale.....BTW I had a large electro-magnet that I was able to demagnetize most of the dampening effect on the 10-10...made it far easier for me to maintain precision when I had it..... Dust on any part of the beam will change its calibration as well as its operation...Keep them covered and make sure they are dust free before use... Always keep the knife & blocks clean.... Any scale including some of the better digitals can give you "false" readings which are actually stray air movement barely or almost not detectable by a person....This gave me fits for a while when I was younger when I had electric baseboard heat in one of my reloading rooms.....A forced air furnace will make any scale wander no matter what part of the room you are in.... One must also pay attention to the side thrust bearings and the relationship with the beam...Any "stray" drag will affect the reading...When checking calibration with check weights pay attention to this....Use more than one check weight and also check operation at extreme ends of the beam movement. My need for speed has long past along with my youth and now it seems my joints too...It gets tedious and downright uncomfortable sitting at the bench for hours weighing each load down to the kernal without the help of my automatic powder scale...I am only shooting once or twice a week now (10-20 rnds/session)...So my bench time is only 2 to 3 hours a week.....Hopefully my upcoming hip replacement will cure that.... [/QUOTE]
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