SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
Anyone done your own fiberglass stock? Been reading up on it and can't decide if I wanna do a glass over foam.. Or a mold.. Any ideas? As always input is appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
DIY fiberglass stock
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kiwi3006
Well-Known Member
Have a look at this thread http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/homemade-fibreglass-stock-58325/
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
Fantastic! I've been kicking the idea around for a little while. Was planning on doing an aluminum block at the action milled out to accept it. And run a rolled stock frame up the for end and also off the back to the butt. Was thinking I'd use expanding foam and wet set it in a box and envelope it. Wait for it to dry and shape it. Then lay up over that. Do you think all the metal is over kill? For a 300 wsm..
Also can you apply the epoxy and silica as a top coat to hide the glass?
Also can you apply the epoxy and silica as a top coat to hide the glass?
kiwi3006
Well-Known Member
I don't use any metal work in my actions and have made a number of 7mm mags and one 300 wsm. There have been no problems with the actions.
Yes you can apply the epoxy and silica as a top coat.
Yes you can apply the epoxy and silica as a top coat.
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
I apologize for asking if you had mentioned it already but did you completely fill the for end with glass and resin? If so do your swivel studs stay in? Or did you back it up with wood? Also (don't mean to be a pain) when you bedded your action how much of a void did you have to fill? Was it pretty much completely open through the trigger area and bottom metal?
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
Thought I was done didn't ya? When you made the silicone mold in two pieces? Did you mean top and bottom? And joining the two halves of the stock. You laid three layers of glass and resin did you sandwich them in there when you bolted the mold together?
kiwi3006
Well-Known Member
To put the swivel studs in I drill the hole for the studs, insert the studs and use plasticene around the stud to hold it in place.
I have already made a dam around the hole on the inside of the stock, then pour thickened resin around the stud.
I use a machine screw stud with the nut on the fore-end ( you will need to cut some of the screw off to shorten it) and a 3/4" wood screw on the but.
I use expanding polyurethane foam in the fore-end and butt to deaden the hollow sound there is no mechanical support from the foam.
Yes the action cast is two piece, top and bottom. The action area is completely hollow and the action cast is put in and then taped in place. I just wrap completely around it. You may need to put plasticene in places to seal the actioncast onto the stock properly before taping. Then stand the stock on the but and pour in thickened resin. It takes about 100g Z105 and 20g Z206 to fill the action area give or take. Don't mix it in one lot or the heat will make it go off real fast, plus it gets REALLY hot. I cast the action in the evening for this reason and use the Z206 slow hardener fro this reason as well.
Joining the two halves together. Bolt the two halves of the mold together then lay the cloth over the join lines. Doing the but is tricky. I use a thin piece of plastic to get the cloth into the but and a bent wire to push the cloth down into the pistol grip etc. Be prepared to take several goes at it the first time. It can be really frustrating.
I have already made a dam around the hole on the inside of the stock, then pour thickened resin around the stud.
I use a machine screw stud with the nut on the fore-end ( you will need to cut some of the screw off to shorten it) and a 3/4" wood screw on the but.
I use expanding polyurethane foam in the fore-end and butt to deaden the hollow sound there is no mechanical support from the foam.
Yes the action cast is two piece, top and bottom. The action area is completely hollow and the action cast is put in and then taped in place. I just wrap completely around it. You may need to put plasticene in places to seal the actioncast onto the stock properly before taping. Then stand the stock on the but and pour in thickened resin. It takes about 100g Z105 and 20g Z206 to fill the action area give or take. Don't mix it in one lot or the heat will make it go off real fast, plus it gets REALLY hot. I cast the action in the evening for this reason and use the Z206 slow hardener fro this reason as well.
Joining the two halves together. Bolt the two halves of the mold together then lay the cloth over the join lines. Doing the but is tricky. I use a thin piece of plastic to get the cloth into the but and a bent wire to push the cloth down into the pistol grip etc. Be prepared to take several goes at it the first time. It can be really frustrating.
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
Ok man! I think I'm ready to get into trouble! Thank you..
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
started working on my stock. Didn't have a stock to copy so I'm shaping my own outa Styrofoam.
I know some of you guys are gonna look at this and say man that looks terrible! Give me a brake its my first one.
Kinda what I'm looking for
Decided to extend the rib on the front further back
Still kinda rough but not lookin bad for a rookie. Now any suggestions on what to seal it with? As always your input is appreciated..
I know some of you guys are gonna look at this and say man that looks terrible! Give me a brake its my first one.
Kinda what I'm looking for
Decided to extend the rib on the front further back
Still kinda rough but not lookin bad for a rookie. Now any suggestions on what to seal it with? As always your input is appreciated..
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
Had one more but ran outa room. Here it is with my Browning X bolt behind it.
kiwi3006
Well-Known Member
Lookin good! You could use some sort of builders bog to seal the styrofoam and then sand it smooth. Are you going to make a mold from it or just put cloth straight over it?
SteveAreno
Well-Known Member
A friend of mine said an epoxy resin would do the trick. Only thing i worry about with that is the solvent I'd use to lean it down so I could spray it. Might eat the styrofoam. But an epoxy would give it a nice hard sand able wax able shell. And yep I'm gonna make a mold.
kiwi3006
Well-Known Member
Don't use a solvent to thin down the epoxy. Epoxy is cheap. No need to thin it down. Mix in some 207(?) microballoons with the epoxy it will make sanding easier.
ICANHITHIMMAN
Well-Known Member
I'm following this with great interest, I have researched this on the net before but I still don't understand the process. I wish there was a video, please keep us posted with lots of details.
Jon
Jon
