Disappointed

bamadawg2009

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
350
Location
Florida
Well I finally got my 300WSM from the gunsmith Saturday after he told me it would be Monday, and he was still in the process of finishing it when I called him. So I went to pick it up and Im going to start with a list of things that is wrong with it.
Im going to take the rifle back and get him to fix all of these problems.

1) On the outside it is a great looking rifle 26.5" #5 shilen match barrel ceracoated black with a mini magnum muscle break from Jim at Center Shot Rifles, but when you look closer there is places that you can tell where rubbed against something while the ceracote was still wet and tried to fix, one of the rings is still showing a hint of silver under the ceracote, in one place the ceracote has a texture that looks like orange peel in it.

2) I dont know how he reamed the chamber but I know that I bought a brand new clymer reamer for this job. The fireformed brass looks like the chamber was reamed with a stop sign it comes out with chatter marks from the chamber all the way around the case.

3) After shooting even with factory loads to get it on paper it is showing signs of pressure i.e. Flattened primers and extremely hard to open bolt as in just before having to take a mallet to the handle. It almost looks like the neck was cut to short the burn marks on the case neck dont go all the way to the top of the shoulder like most do.

4) After getting it home I put the scope on the rifle and getting it just perfect, the bolt handle wouldnt clear the eyepiece bell to open so I had to file some of the bolt handle to get clearance and work the bolt so of course now there is a big bald spot on my bolt handle from filing of the ceracote. The bolt handle is also not the way I wanted it I told him to cut the original mauser handle off and just reshape it to fit but he put a aftermarket handle on it and welded it on to high for the scope clearance and this is even using high rings and mounts.

Now for the little things

5) I made sure to ask him if he was going to put on swivel studs and guess what no studs.

6) I used a boyds Pepper Laminate Stock and he would finish bed and clear it, well there is black bedding all around the top of the stock around the receiver and rough spots in the tru oil finish. Stock looks good until you put it in your hands and start to feel over it.

7) This gun was built as a repeater but it sits as a single shot for now. I guess it could be using a mauser action for a short magnum case but the bolt face doesnt catch the case rim before the cartridge just totally shoots out the side of the action.

8) While where talking bout the bolt face, I told him to true the action before he started the build, he did but he said the cases wouldnt fit into the bolt face so he put it back in the lathe and opened it up some more but this almost looks like it was done by hand with a dremel to open up the last little bit. I took a case today and there are space around the case head that have spaces between the bolt head and case head will wobble instead of sitting tight.

I went out and shot it this morning and was not impressed with accuracy at all. Im shooting 190gr bergers with H4895 and after 2 groups put it up and will take it back tomorow.
I bought all the parts for this build myself so I know what went into it, I gave the smith $400 for the work. Im taking the gun back to him and see what he says he can do to it, if something doesnt change Im taking it to my gunsmith that built my 280 that is the most accurate gun I own or have ever shot. This is what I wanted to do in the first place but he was sick when I began this build and said it was going to be 6-8 months before he started building again.

I want some suggestion on what i can get him to do to fix any of these problems sorry it is such a long thread but Im just very irritated at the way this build turned out for the money I have in it.
 
I think you made a mistake on your choice of Smiths.

Truing an action, threading and chambering a barrel, installing a brake, bedding and finishing a stock, and cerakoting is worth more than $400.

Anyone that prices that job for $400 isn't going to do a good job.
 
I did one similar to you supplying everything and the smith who I have known for years charged 500. He had a reamer or rented... I did not ask but the rifle turned out great and shoots bug holes.

I feel your pain but I think you made a bad decision and did not get a skilled smith. That bolt handle thingy really sucks!!
 
Man that sucks!! I would try to get your money back at least since the rifle is basically non functional, your list of bad stuff makes me sick to my stomach, really sorry to see that happen!!!
 
I know that feeling, I am still bitter to this day with a barrel maker whom I gave good money to and got a poor job in return, and he was not interested in rectifying anything.

I wish you luck with that.
 
Truing the action, forging the bolt, opening the bolt face, reworking the extractor, adjusting the rails to feed, barreling and chambering, and bedding / finishing the stock should cost at least $800. Installing a brake, about $75. If he had to install a low safety, drill and tap for scope bases, and cut the bolt handle relief in the stock, about $100 more. Don't know what a good Cerakote job costs, but it looks like the work should have cost at least $900 - $1000.

I imagine your $400 is gone. If it wasn't done right to begin with, I wouldn't expect all the rework to be done right either.

I would not let the same guy have the rifle back. If you can't get some or all of your money back, or some other kind of compensation, move on. If it's important enough, take it to a competent 'smith and get it done right. Probably still able to be salvaged, but not by this guy.

Sorry, I've been burned too.

Good luck, Tom
 
Sorry to hear it turned out this way. When you say you gave him $400 was that just for the action truing or for the entire job?
 
Hmmmmm I am struggling here!!!! The best way to put this is you need to go to someone else. This guy is a blacksmith. Sorry you did not get the product that you wanted but for that price I would have turned around and walked out.
 
Sad to here you have these problems..It makes me glad to know no matter how much I bitch about the length of time it takes for my rifle to be finished I always know the work is done with perfection. My gunsmith is a rifle DR to me.
 
When he charged me $400 for the job I didnt really think that much about it because most smith around here charge from $200 to $500 is the going price for assembly when you show up with all the parts, Ive had 3 other rfles built for around this same range and all of them are very sweet guns. The smith that built my 280AI only charged me parts plus $200 and that is the most accurate rifle I have ever owned or shot. When I take my other project to my 280 smith Im going to get him to look at the rifle and see what he can do to fix the problems with the rifle and hopefully get it shooting the way it should. I kick myself in the *** everytime I read this thread, but my original smith was in the hospital and didnt know when he would start building rifles again so I tried somebody new. LESSON LEARNED!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Bamadawg, I've thought about this problem from time to time and the only precaution I can come up with is getting references from people that have had work done by the person you're considering. Several jobs for several people, in fact. If that doesn't work, I don't have a plan B.

Tom
 
Bamadawg, I've thought about this problem from time to time and the only precaution I can come up with is getting references from people that have had work done by the person you're considering. Several jobs for several people, in fact. If that doesn't work, I don't have a plan B.

Tom

TOM, I had 4 or 5 buddys that have done business with him and all of them had nothing but good things to say about him. I even had him do a bunch of work on my 1911 and was extremely pleased but, I also forgot there is a differnce between parts changing and building.
 
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