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Dead soft brass!
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<blockquote data-quote="DartonJager" data-source="post: 1588420" data-attributes="member: 95733"><p>To answer your questions about cleaning prior to and after annealing, prior to annealing fired un-processed cases, I always clean them in my vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut hull) till bright and shiny, give them a quick bath in a tumbler with stainless pins and dawn fallowed by a good rinsing with straight hot tap water, dry with hair dryer then de-prim with Lee universal de-primer. Once annealed I then prep my brass as usual which includes polishing the inside case neck/mouth with 0000 steel wool and cleaning out the primer pocket.</p><p>I have no idea if this is the best order to do things it just makes sense to me to have clean brass prior to annealing.</p><p>I do one thing a bit differently after I remove each piece of brass from the molten salt I dip it into water to remove any residual liquid salt that might have stuck to the case.</p><p>Keep in mind at this point I am in my opinion a low volume shooter and reloader. I have never prepped more than 50 pieces of brass at a time. I never process more brass at any time that I cannot for 100% certain finish to where they are ready to be reloaded. Except for unifying the primer pockets and trimming the brass, I use the same exact brass preparation steps every time I reload. I will add I have stopped neck sizing and went to using Redding BO sizing dies and Lee Collet dies.</p><p>I didn't see a dramatic increase in accuracy but I did see an increase in consistent accuracy with unexplained flyers all but eliminated. I'm going to give Norma brass a try this summer to see if that helps my accuracy. </p><p></p><p>Please by all means if anyone sees fault with or can suggest improvement to my method by all means say so as I would appreciate it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DartonJager, post: 1588420, member: 95733"] To answer your questions about cleaning prior to and after annealing, prior to annealing fired un-processed cases, I always clean them in my vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut hull) till bright and shiny, give them a quick bath in a tumbler with stainless pins and dawn fallowed by a good rinsing with straight hot tap water, dry with hair dryer then de-prim with Lee universal de-primer. Once annealed I then prep my brass as usual which includes polishing the inside case neck/mouth with 0000 steel wool and cleaning out the primer pocket. I have no idea if this is the best order to do things it just makes sense to me to have clean brass prior to annealing. I do one thing a bit differently after I remove each piece of brass from the molten salt I dip it into water to remove any residual liquid salt that might have stuck to the case. Keep in mind at this point I am in my opinion a low volume shooter and reloader. I have never prepped more than 50 pieces of brass at a time. I never process more brass at any time that I cannot for 100% certain finish to where they are ready to be reloaded. Except for unifying the primer pockets and trimming the brass, I use the same exact brass preparation steps every time I reload. I will add I have stopped neck sizing and went to using Redding BO sizing dies and Lee Collet dies. I didn't see a dramatic increase in accuracy but I did see an increase in consistent accuracy with unexplained flyers all but eliminated. I'm going to give Norma brass a try this summer to see if that helps my accuracy. Please by all means if anyone sees fault with or can suggest improvement to my method by all means say so as I would appreciate it. [/QUOTE]
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Dead soft brass!
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