G
Guest
Guest
Just got new 6.5wsm built set up for 1000yd.how far should I go on sorting brass by weight is + or - .5 gr. to much diffrence.I can see I should have started with 500rds. cause even at + or- .5 lost about half.
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Gunner
Think it depends on what level of accuracy you are expecting?
Some 1k BR guys sort to .1, most go to .5, some do not sort at all but they are rare. I subscribe to the .5 gr school if it is all over the place. However If I have less than 1% variance except ends of extreme spreads, I throw the ends of the bell curve out and use the whole lot. Lot of discussion as to what you are weighing anyway, ie wall thickness, case head etc.
Others take weighed brass normally within 1 gr in lots of 20 then shot over chrono and mark brass by uniformity of MV as whether record or sighter round.
If for hunting gun use 1% or one grain and just shoot it.
BH
Think it depends on what level of accuracy you are expecting?
Some 1k BR guys sort to .1, most go to .5, some do not sort at all but they are rare. I subscribe to the .5 gr school if it is all over the place. However If I have less than 1% variance except ends of extreme spreads, I throw the ends of the bell curve out and use the whole lot. Lot of discussion as to what you are weighing anyway, ie wall thickness, case head etc.
Others take weighed brass normally within 1 gr in lots of 20 then shot over chrono and mark brass by uniformity of MV as whether record or sighter round.
If for hunting gun use 1% or one grain and just shoot it.
BH
sniper2
Well-Known Member
try setting up 100 sticks of brass in tray
and dropping 60 gr. of ball powder in each
you will notice a different level in the cases. Take the brass with the most consistent levels of powder for your groups,
this method works pretty good.
and dropping 60 gr. of ball powder in each
you will notice a different level in the cases. Take the brass with the most consistent levels of powder for your groups,
this method works pretty good.
G
Guest
Guest
thank you for the info.not shooting any maches yet but you never know.but i am looking for all i can get out of this gun.so i geuss i better start changing my old ways.spent $5000 on the gun probely shouldnt try to skimp on details now.probley will shoot brass i got culled for break in.and go get some more and start culling.Anyone got anice warm place for me to start breaking this thing in?
a.JR
Well-Known Member
Gunner,The importance of qualifing your projectiles(shape) will far out way the finite matching of the brass any day ..I can find differences in the hand made L/R bench bullet that i use that will cause a variance in the vertical dispersion of the group and this will be even more so with the likes of a SMK..I have used a lot of 168 7mms for 1K ,the largest difference in weight i could find was 1 full grain and it DID NOT CHANGE THE GROUP one bit as long as the other measurements were equal ...I have shot AUS records with cases that have a 1 grain weight spread(220gns total) and i have checked primers as well but do not own a platform good enough to evaluate these...All that being said i still try to equalise all components as best as humanly possible but it's the bullets and the alignment of same that make the biggest gains for me..JR..Jeff Rogers..ps .. your right it's best to start with the largest nos of components 1st.
Boyd Heaton
Well-Known Member
All my match brass weighs 249.6gr...All my bullets weigh 210.0gr.And all my primers weigh 5.2gr.
