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The Basics, Starting Out
Crimp removal and other advice needed
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<blockquote data-quote="VinceMule" data-source="post: 3023957" data-attributes="member: 122164"><p>Processing LC brass is a labor of love. I use the Lee Universal decapping tool to de-cap the brass that has crimped-in primers, then use the Dillon Swagger. The first stage is to grab brass by the hand full with the primer pocket facing you:</p><p></p><p>A. Examine for off-center flash holes, and cull those into one small bucket. Then: </p><p></p><p>B. cull those that seem to have a piece of piece of shard on the side of the primer pocket, those go in another bucket. I use a case-mouth deburring tool to gently cut this piece of shard off at a later time.</p><p></p><p>C. I will de burr the inside of the flash hole on all brass, some have an incredible burr where the flash hole was punched.</p><p></p><p>It is amazing how much of the "Match" brass is screwed up. The Lake City 308 and 30/06 brass is tough brass for high-end pressure loads, but it is work to process.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="VinceMule, post: 3023957, member: 122164"] Processing LC brass is a labor of love. I use the Lee Universal decapping tool to de-cap the brass that has crimped-in primers, then use the Dillon Swagger. The first stage is to grab brass by the hand full with the primer pocket facing you: A. Examine for off-center flash holes, and cull those into one small bucket. Then: B. cull those that seem to have a piece of piece of shard on the side of the primer pocket, those go in another bucket. I use a case-mouth deburring tool to gently cut this piece of shard off at a later time. C. I will de burr the inside of the flash hole on all brass, some have an incredible burr where the flash hole was punched. It is amazing how much of the "Match" brass is screwed up. The Lake City 308 and 30/06 brass is tough brass for high-end pressure loads, but it is work to process. [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
Crimp removal and other advice needed
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