Brass buildup in sizing die causing scratching.

[Greasegun]

What brand of die is that?

What kind of case lube are you using?


I had same trouble in a wilson die and it actually scratched the die, was unrepairable. Wilson replaced. It was from inadequate lube, the cases were sticking and galling slightly in the die. It started happening again in my new die, so I polished it out and started using a heavier application of lube, switched to a lanolin/alcohol mixture. I spray a little in the die before starting as well.

 

[emp1953]

Early in my reloading experience I ruined a sizing die by sizing dirty brass. That was 1971. Since then I always clean my brass in a vibrating cleaner with polish treated media. Have never had a marred or scored die since. Once a year I run the dies, one at a time, in the cleaner overnight to get any crap out that my old eyes can't see.

 

[Pointman]

I totally agree dirty brass is a leading cause of die problems. I dry tumble my brass before each session. I also do not let my brass hit the floor or the dirt. Same process with range brass I sometimes purchase from my range. Sometimes after checking the range brass, I'll use a bore brush in a drill to clean the inside of the necks. Take care of your brass and your dies will thank you.

 

[entoptics]

What brand of die is that?

What kind of case lube are you using?

I use lanolin or One Shot, in this case it was lanolin. They were running in/out pretty slick, but it's plausible the lube didn't get all the way to the web, which is where the problem was mostly.

 

[foul bore]

I HAD SAME PROBLEM. I polished the die, from then on cleaned all dies and cleaned brass before resizing. no problem since.

 

[Greasegun]

I use lanolin or One Shot, in this case it was lanolin. They were running in/out pretty slick, but it's plausible the lube didn't get all the way to the web, which is where the problem was mostly.

What kind of die? If its scratched, after you clean/polish it out the scratches will just start accumulating brass again. At least thats what I experienced.

 

[entoptics]

What kind of die? If its scratched, after you clean/polish it out the scratches will just start accumulating brass again. At least thats what I experienced.

This one is an RCBS. I don't think it was a scratched die, although the interior finish wasn't exactly mirror like.

I chucked up a bore brush with a Simichrome lubed patch wrapped around it, and that removed the brass like butter, and shined up the inside as well. Hopefully problem solved.

I'll likely start making the Simichrome treatment a regular maintenance item for all my dies going forward. I don't think it's too aggressive, and shouldn't reduce the ID significantly, even after several applications.

 

[Greasegun]

This one is an RCBS. I don't think it was a scratched die, although the interior finish wasn't exactly mirror like.

I chucked up a bore brush with a Simichrome lubed patch wrapped around it, and that removed the brass like butter, and shined up the inside as well. Hopefully problem solved.

I'll likely start making the Simichrome treatment a regular maintenance item for all my dies going forward. I don't think it's too aggressive, and shouldn't reduce the ID significantly, even after several applications.

The inside being shiny should help alleviate the problem. I started going heavier on the lanolin lube and that helped me

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

clean brass BEFORE sizing

This seems like the logical solution. I have always done this, and never had a problem with dies scratching my brass.
It seems very unlikely that the dies were shipped scratched, but that carbon on dirty brass scratched the die, then the scratches started picking up brass.

 

[Greyfox]

I agree with comments about cleaning brass and periodic cleaning of dyes. Not all dyes are created equal when it cones to the finish of the interior surface. I prefer mine to have a "mirror finish". The difference between a Redding "competition" dye and the '"standard" offering is quite noticeable and shows up in the "standard" dyes ability to develop scratched cases. Additionally, while the lighter consistency case lubes like Imperial Wax and One-Shot work fine with my smaller cartridges, the possibility of a scratched, or even stuck case runs high. I prefer a heavier lube like the RCBS for my +308 sized cases. IMO.

 

[Alibiiv]

I'd be curious about what you are using for lube?? I have been using Hornady, "One Shot" and have been very happy with it. And...if your die is not a custom die, I'd be looking to replace it. And.....of course it would not hurt to get something to clean your brass. I use a Frankfort Arsenal tumbler ($90) that does a good job. I know there are better ones out there, however this works for me

 

[emp1953]

It's a precarious balance between "enough" case lube and too much case lube. Not enough results in stuck cases (another tool to buy) too much results in dented cases. Denting of the shoulder usually results from build up of excess lube in the die, which is another reason to clean your dies from time to time.

 

[Alibiiv]

It's a precarious balance between "enough" case lube and too much case lube. Not enough results in stuck cases (another tool to buy) too much results in dented cases. Denting of the shoulder usually results from build up of excess lube in the die, which is another reason to clean your dies from time to time.

Try the Hornady "One Shot", been reloading a very long time, have never found anything quite like this lubricant; no real buildup and won't use anything else.

 

[Greasegun]

It's a precarious balance between "enough" case lube and too much case lube. Not enough results in stuck cases (another tool to buy) too much results in dented cases. Denting of the shoulder usually results from build up of excess lube in the die, which is another reason to clean your dies from time to time.

The nice advantage to the Lanolin case lube the OP is using is that it doesnt build up and cause denting or inconsistent shoulder bump like imperial wax does. Look up DIY Lanolin case lube on you-tube.