Boltface Question
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NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
Yes a Remington will do it. The debate is over pressures and strength and yada yada.
This is what I know. I built a 338LM in an Ackley improved once for a buddy on a pawn shop Remington. John isn't known for being conservative on his handloads and this rifle is no exception. It's still in one piece and it still shoots well.
Take it for what it's worth.
Good luck.
C
This is what I know. I built a 338LM in an Ackley improved once for a buddy on a pawn shop Remington. John isn't known for being conservative on his handloads and this rifle is no exception. It's still in one piece and it still shoots well.
Take it for what it's worth.
Good luck.
C
Q
quicktimeracecars
Guest
You mean pimers aren't supposed to fall out of the pocket after two loadings ****-IT
338 LAIM still going strong
185 grain barnes at over 4000 fps
hi I need HELP it sounds like I am in the right place I am new at this gun smithing got a 721/700 rem in .06 trying to make it a accurate rifle here already did triger job and had the saftey fixed safty recall on the saftey and I glass beded it from the sight ring all the way to the back end of the recever right now it shoots a 1 1/2 moa at 89 yards (ranger finder thats all the room i had) maybe a bit tighter not mutch the ? I got is do I go to bolt faceing or head space need more input
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
So, how'd it shoot before you did all this work?
adam32
Well-Known Member
You mean pimers aren't supposed to fall out of the pocket after two loadings ****-IT
338 LAIM still going strong
185 grain barnes at over 4000 fps
Are you serious? 4000fps with a 185gr!!!! Tell me more!!!
Easy answer is buy a bolt from Pacific Tool and Guage, Dave Kiff. Ready to go, no mods needed and sell your old bolt. Pick your handle and order with bolt. Just needs to be welded on and timed.
BH
BH
This is off topic, but since the original posters question seems to have been answered.
If the bedding is right I would have it recrowned before I tried to have any other machine work done. Do a search here on how to check bedding. Are you handloading try some more ammo. Is everything tight? Do you have a known good scope that you can swap out. Good luck.
If the bedding is right I would have it recrowned before I tried to have any other machine work done. Do a search here on how to check bedding. Are you handloading try some more ammo. Is everything tight? Do you have a known good scope that you can swap out. Good luck.
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
David Kiff is a personal friend of mine and no doubt manufactures some of the nicest stuff in the gun industry. (The best for tooling/gauging IMO) Be that as it may, no one is going to pay much for a stock Remington bolt. The work that goes into modifying one is so simple and routine that there's no reason not to.
If you going to insist on spending money for flashy parts, I'd suggest just save a bit more and get a custom action. Nothing at all wrong with a Remington, but I equate them to much the same as a Camaro or Mustang. Everyone has had one at one time or another and we all put chrome valve covers on em and maybe a cam and set of heads.
It's still a Camaro/Mustang.
The better custom actions start at the level of a Corvette and can even progress to things like exotic sports cars.
Nesika - Manufacturer of World Class Bolt Actions and Rifles - Offical Site is a good one that I have had great success with if your interested.
If you going to insist on spending money for flashy parts, I'd suggest just save a bit more and get a custom action. Nothing at all wrong with a Remington, but I equate them to much the same as a Camaro or Mustang. Everyone has had one at one time or another and we all put chrome valve covers on em and maybe a cam and set of heads.
It's still a Camaro/Mustang.
The better custom actions start at the level of a Corvette and can even progress to things like exotic sports cars.
Nesika - Manufacturer of World Class Bolt Actions and Rifles - Offical Site is a good one that I have had great success with if your interested.
thats funny i am a mechanic for 26 years dont want to start a aggument here but Ive built a 67 fairlane 289 4 spd rock crusher DT locker rear end holly 4 bl that did 12 .4 in the 1/4 mile . They ALL laugh at my flat black rims and my rust holes and NO chrome till wraped it around a tree beatting thunder chickin yes I wone lots of races that 1 to then I got my old sporty 1st and 2nt gear wheelys 3dr SMOKEM 4gr see ya
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
5" @ 100 yards?
No offense, but the only place you have to go is up!
Unless the machine work on the bolt face is done horribly bad, no it won't affect accuracy.
I say that knowing its a half truth. If you were for instance going from a 6mm PPC to a 600 nitro then yes, accuracy is definitely going to change, but it has nothing to do with the bolt face diameter, it'd be due to caliber selection.
Regarding bedding:
There's an infinite number of ways to bed a rifle and with that comes an equally large number of ways to screw it up. I've written about this before, but for easy reference I'll say it again. If your interested in what my views are on it, just search and you'll see what I mean.
Bedding really doesn't do all that much for accuracy. It's not quite that simple. A well done bedding job is going to make a rifle perform reliably and predictably in a broader variety of conditions. Simply meaning cold/hot/dry/wet weather won't affect your group center as much.
Group center is the term to pay attention to. This is point of impact in relation to point of aim. This is where bedding really comes into play.
Group size is different all together and it does affect it as well, but its NOT the main reason for it. A rifle that shoots well (we'll use 1/2 moa as a baseline) will benefit from a good bedding job. It'll tighten things up a bit. What I mean is if the group is good, but suffers from a little vertical or maybe has a flier, bedding will tend to tame that down some. Again, a half truth as you also need to ensure the ammunition is working. Poor quality ammo (whether commercial or "home grown") is also going to cause these same characteristics.
Basically it's like this:
Accuracy starts with a great barrel. If there is one single thing to spend money on its the tube the bullet travels down. All the other tricks and wigits (properly done) will only improve from there.
My background involves professional drag racing. Look at a Pro Stock car from the NHRA. Everyone has a specific set of rules to run by in terms of engine specifications. By and large the power development from one car to another is not all that different. Within 20hp typically. So, the majority of them have it done "right". That last final 20hp is the "bedding", "trigger job", "blue printed" action, etc. In a competitive arena bound by common rules the little things add up quickly and when in capable hands yields a winning car.
Rifles are no different.
What I hope you take from this is that you first must ensure the meat and potatoes of your rifle are "right" (great barrel) before you start fiddling with the other things.
No offense, but the only place you have to go is up!
Unless the machine work on the bolt face is done horribly bad, no it won't affect accuracy.
I say that knowing its a half truth. If you were for instance going from a 6mm PPC to a 600 nitro then yes, accuracy is definitely going to change, but it has nothing to do with the bolt face diameter, it'd be due to caliber selection.
Regarding bedding:
There's an infinite number of ways to bed a rifle and with that comes an equally large number of ways to screw it up. I've written about this before, but for easy reference I'll say it again. If your interested in what my views are on it, just search and you'll see what I mean.
Bedding really doesn't do all that much for accuracy. It's not quite that simple. A well done bedding job is going to make a rifle perform reliably and predictably in a broader variety of conditions. Simply meaning cold/hot/dry/wet weather won't affect your group center as much.
Group center is the term to pay attention to. This is point of impact in relation to point of aim. This is where bedding really comes into play.
Group size is different all together and it does affect it as well, but its NOT the main reason for it. A rifle that shoots well (we'll use 1/2 moa as a baseline) will benefit from a good bedding job. It'll tighten things up a bit. What I mean is if the group is good, but suffers from a little vertical or maybe has a flier, bedding will tend to tame that down some. Again, a half truth as you also need to ensure the ammunition is working. Poor quality ammo (whether commercial or "home grown") is also going to cause these same characteristics.
Basically it's like this:
Accuracy starts with a great barrel. If there is one single thing to spend money on its the tube the bullet travels down. All the other tricks and wigits (properly done) will only improve from there.
My background involves professional drag racing. Look at a Pro Stock car from the NHRA. Everyone has a specific set of rules to run by in terms of engine specifications. By and large the power development from one car to another is not all that different. Within 20hp typically. So, the majority of them have it done "right". That last final 20hp is the "bedding", "trigger job", "blue printed" action, etc. In a competitive arena bound by common rules the little things add up quickly and when in capable hands yields a winning car.
Rifles are no different.
What I hope you take from this is that you first must ensure the meat and potatoes of your rifle are "right" (great barrel) before you start fiddling with the other things.
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