Realy you should remove the barrel, screw in the bolt lapping tool then smear the rear of the bolt lugs, or front of the action lugs with lapping paste( valve grinding paste will surfice). but as i suspect you don't have the means to remove the barrel or have a bolt lapping tool what i suggest you do is, remove the firing pin assy, drive out the pin that locates the ejector and remove the ejector, place a fired case into the chamber and begin lapping, after a few strokes of the bolt handel, remove the bolt and case, clean out the excess lapping compound, cut a brass shim to fit in the bolt face, masking tape will surfice, then put the thing back together again with a little more lapping paste on the lugs, work the bult up and down some more. clean the whole thing out, now get some engineers blue, coat the rear of the bolt lugs, close the bolt on the case and shim, then check out what you have achieved in contact area, if sattsifeid you can stop your lapping process there if not carry on. Its a good idea to try the engineers blue (permanent marker pen will also do) before you begin the lapping, this way you can see the improvement.
The idea is that rearward pressure from the case and shim (or from the spring loaded bolt lapping tool) cause the lugs to be lapped evenly and inline with the bore. If you just lapp with no rearward pressure the tendency is for the one lug to get more of a lapping than the other, due to thebolt handle bieng on the one side of the bolt.
you can't beat having the barrel off and the action worked over, then you know all is squared up.
Pete
