Bluing Question

[hnts4fun]

I will never forget the bluing jobs that came on factory Colt Pythons back in the 60s. They looked like you could just step into the finish and disappear. I have a classic shooter project in mind, i.e. wood stock, blued metal, and a nice-looking scope with the innards to take care of business.

I understand now that metal finishing is what sets a truly great bluing job apart from a good bluing job. A few questions though.

Hot rust bluing versus cold rust bluing... which is most likely to yield a deeper than deep blue finish?

Has anyone here had this kind of work done? If so, by who?

I'm always interested to hear from LRH sponsors/smiths who make their living doing this sort of thing.

Thanks in advance for some feedback!

Matt

 

[shortgrass]

Any blue job is dependent on the metal prep and degree of polishing, how fine of grit, no 'ripples', no 'rounded' corners from polishing. Hot bluing is how the Colt was colored. I don't understand your "hot rust bluing/cold rust bluing". ALL black oxide finishing is "a controlled rust process". Hot 'caustic' blue is what we see on most factory firearms, because it is economical. It is not only thermally hot (270-295 deg.) it is chemically 'hot'. It has been around for along time but really "came into its' own" just before/during WW2, advances in chemical processing. Slow Rust is an ancient process, a 'time consumer'. I've spent 4-8 hours coloring one gun, polishing not included. Slow Rust is the finish used on soft soldered doubles and some traditional, wood stocked custom rifles. I guess technically, slow rust is 'cold' but it does involve heat and some processes use boiling water, or a 'fume' process. Slow rust is kin to "plum brown". Most all "hot bluing" these days is "black" in color. I'm not sure whether the chemical mix has changed or maybe the steels have. Cold blue, the stuff bought in a bottle at K-Mart/WalMart/ some gunshops is worthless for bluing a whole firearm, best used for 'touching-up' a screw head.

 

[hnts4fun]

I went back to a site I had visited and saw I messed up my terms. Hot bluing and slow rust bluing were two of the services offered.

Thank you for the information.

 

[Nimrodmar10]

If you want the best bluing job contact Charles Danner in Fayetteville TN. You can see his sight at:
DannerGunsmithing - Customer Comments

 

[hnts4fun]

Thanks, I'll ckeck it out!

 

[Pureblood]

I will never forget the bluing jobs that came on factory Colt Pythons back in the 60s. They looked like you could just step into the finish and disappear. I have a classic shooter project in mind, i.e. wood stock, blued metal, and a nice-looking scope with the innards to take care of business.

I understand now that metal finishing is what sets a truly great bluing job apart from a good bluing job. A few questions though.

Hot rust bluing versus cold rust bluing... which is most likely to yield a deeper than deep blue finish?

Has anyone here had this kind of work done? If so, by who?

I'm always interested to hear from LRH sponsors/smiths who make their living doing this sort of thing.

Thanks in advance for some feedback!

Matt

Hot rust bluing is the way to go. It needs no boiling tanks and a prepared gun can be completed in a single day. I heat my water with a kitchen kettle, it works great even with long guns.

A while ago I came across some Webley revolvers that had been stored in a shed for many years and were rusty as good be, luckily the barrels had been greased at some time before they were stored and they were all savable . I could not exactly duplicate the original finish but I was happy with the end result non the less.

 

[sable tireur]

Yes, this thread is 13 years old and revitalized by a new member selecting from the 'similar threads' list at the bottom of the pages. But it's still important to differentiate between the types of metal finishing still available to us as shooters.

Hot blue is still the most used generally due to more reasonable costs but it's being rapidly replaced by Cerakote. Hot blue requires a dedicated area for production. Not only are the baths and chemicals used HOT but the caustic lye (active ingredient) will burn you as well. Metal prep is king for the best final finish, high polish as noted above as well as moderate polish and satin finishes. There is a whole science and training involved in real hot bluing. The stuff marketed for home amateurs is awful.

Nitre blue is usually reserved for smaller parts and is not as wear resistant at all. As a beautiful deep blue it can be used as a contrast to other salt blues. It does scratch easily so it gets the call for display or exhibit firearms.

Carbon blue is an altogether scientific/artistic process for which there are very few folks who endeavor to perform it.
Doug Turnbull Restorations is the best and also the most extreme high prices for restoration. He has devoted his entire life to perfecting his trade and skills. His price list and quotes are not for the faint of heart, deep pockets are. Note that those deep blues so highly associated with Colt firearms has been known to use the Royal Blue Carbon process. Due to cost Colt quit using this finish many, many years ago.

Rust Blue (Belgian Blue, etc.) is my favorite for rifles, shotguns and the classic double guns. Metal prep is still the most important step for the best finish. The end result is typically a satin-type look. There is an mild acid involved but rubber or Latex gloves prevent and problems. Hot water bath and some sort of cabinet to provide a moist, humid environment to encourage the rust to form. I started out using an older decommissioned refrigerator with a light bulb for a little heat. Specific wire wheels are necessary for the carding step.

Rust Blue

https://lohmangunsmith.com/pages/slow-rust-bluing

Enjoy!

 

[Pureblood]

Yes, this thread is 13 years old and revitalized by a new member selecting from the 'similar threads' list at the bottom of the pages. But it's still important to differentiate between the types of metal finishing still available to us as shooters.

Hot blue is still the most used generally due to more reasonable costs but it's being rapidly replaced by Cerakote. Hot blue requires a dedicated area for production. Not only are the baths and chemicals used HOT but the caustic lye (active ingredient) will burn you as well. Metal prep is king for the best final finish, high polish as noted above as well as moderate polish and satin finishes. There is a whole science and training involved in real hot bluing. The stuff marketed for home amateurs is awful.

Nitre blue is usually reserved for smaller parts and is not as wear resistant at all. As a beautiful deep blue it can be used as a contrast to other salt blues. It does scratch easily so it gets the call for display or exhibit firearms.

Carbon blue is an altogether scientific/artistic process for which there are very few folks who endeavor to perform it.
Doug Turnbull Restorations is the best and also the most extreme high prices for restoration. He has devoted his entire life to perfecting his trade and skills. His price list and quotes are not for the faint of heart, deep pockets are. Note that those deep blues so highly associated with Colt firearms has been known to use the Royal Blue Carbon process. Due to cost Colt quit using this finish many, many years ago.

Rust Blue (Belgian Blue, etc.) is my favorite for rifles, shotguns and the classic double guns. Metal prep is still the most important step for the best finish. The end result is typically a satin-type look. There is an mild acid involved but rubber or Latex gloves prevent and problems. Hot water bath and some sort of cabinet to provide a moist, humid environment to encourage the rust to form. I started out using an older decommissioned refrigerator with a light bulb for a little heat. Specific wire wheels are necessary for the carding step.

Rust Blue
View attachment 547781
https://lohmangunsmith.com/pages/slow-rust-bluing

Enjoy!

Very nice.

What would you charge to do a Webley revolver ?

 

[3chester]

Pre- WWII, just a simple working Man's gun, be it a Savage 99, Winchester Model 12, or a Colt Service pistol, each company had their own unique finish and bluing for their parts. Guns that sold for less than $200, pre-war, can be 10 times that money, just to restore the finish today.

 

[Pureblood]

Pre- WWII, just a simple working Man's gun, be it a Savage 99, Winchester Model 12, or a Colt Service pistol, each company had their own unique finish and bluing for their parts. Guns that sold for less than $200, pre-war, can be 10 times that money, just to restore the finish today.

That's why I am interested in what sable tireur would charge.

It took five days in total to blue just one of the Webley's pictured above. Four days preparation and one day rust bluing.

 

[sable tireur]

Very nice.

What would you charge to do a Webley revolver ?

Actually, I wouldn't have a charge for your revolvers because I have no intention of soliciting on this forum. And I don't handle revolvers at all. As I stated above, when I was doing Rust Blue, I did bolt action rifles, shotguns and double guns. Soldered ribs and barrels were especially suited to this process.

You can use the link I supplied to contact that gunsmith for a quote from them.

Best.

 

[Pureblood]

Actually, I wouldn't have a charge for your revolvers because I have no intention of soliciting on this forum. And I don't handle revolvers at all. As I stated above, when I was doing Rust Blue, I did bolt action rifles, shotguns and double guns. Soldered ribs and barrels were especially suited to this process.

You can use the link I supplied to contact that gunsmith for a quote from them.

Best.

Oh right . I thought you had posted a link to your business.

I don't have any revolvers that need bluing, and if I did I would do them myself, I was just interested in what it would cost to have a revolver done professionally.

What was wrong with my duplicolor job on the barrel bluing thread ?

 

[sable tireur]

What was wrong with my duplicolor job on the barrel bluing thread ?

I would need to hold it in my hands for examination before making any statement.

I'm not a rattle can kind of guy.

Besides, if you're satisfied with your results it really doesn't matter what my opinion is.

 

[Pureblood]

I would need to hold it in my hands for examination before making any statement.

I'm not a rattle can kind of guy.

Besides, if you're satisfied with your results it really doesn't matter what my opinion is.

You gave an angry response, that's the reason I asked what was wrong.

I think it's a perfect finish for a military firearm.

Can you tell me what it is ? I doubt it