Blueprinting, Does it realy help

[J E Custom]

This question has come up before and the consensus is yes. But not all are believers and I
though this might help.

A few weeks ago a friend came by and ask if I could make his 30/06 shoot better without
re barreling. I told him it was a gamble with the factory barrel but I would try.

Using all the same stuff I decided to break it down and rebuild from scratch.

Using the factory barrel I set back the shoulder.015,chased the threads. leveled the recoil lug(
it was .003 to .000 depending on where I measured it),squared the tenon end, squared the
bolt recess in the tenon and re-cut the chamber until it cleaned up. Then I cut a new crown.

Next came the receiver. the bolt fit very well so I squared the receiver face and the recoil bosses
Then squared the bolt face and the recoil lugs. then after lapping the lugs I re assembled the
barreled action and installed it in the stock with a pillar bedding job to finish it off.

This rifle responded very well to say the least. It from a 2.5 MOA rifle to a 3/4 MOA rifle using
factory ammo.

If you had this done by a smith it would be expensive and not practical but on a custom rifle
where you already have a lot invested it only makes sense to true everything to ring out the
best potential of the rifle.

I did not test between each operation to see what made the most difference but It tells me
that each exercise was/is worth the effort.

Most custom rifle smiths do this in order to meet an accuracy standard but some don't.
so it you are contemplating a custom build talk to your smith and know what he intends
to do.

So with a reasonable good factory barrel and some work you "CAN" make a silk purse out
of a sows ear.

J E CUSTOM

 

[joe0121]

I thinks it's worth it, that said, I wouldn't do it without a new barrel. I have a buddy who had an old bone stock m1903. Had the barrel cryo treated and the action trued. He also hand lapped the barrel. When he was done he had a solid 1 moa rifle with hand loads. Why? I think the same reason take old honda civics and dump 30 grand into them to make then a 10 second car. That or to cheat at service rifle competition.


So yes in rifle a turd can be polished.

 

[J E Custom]

I thinks it's worth it, that said, I wouldn't do it without a new barrel. I have a buddy who had an old bone stock m1903. Had the barrel cryo treated and the action trued. He also hand lapped the barrel. When he was done he had a solid 1 moa rifle with hand loads. Why? I think the same reason take old honda civics and dump 30 grand into them to make then a 10 second car. That or to cheat at service rifle competition.


So yes in rifle a turd can be polished.

That was the reason for the post.

All rifles can benefit from truing and lots of time I am ask to just re barrel what they have. And as you said it will add to the expense but if you want the most accuracy it is nessary.

Also on a factory rifle you don't have to do a full blown Blue Print to improve the performance,
anything can help.

J E CUSTOM

 

[joe0121]

The smith putting the barrel on my .300 wm was telling me a story about a rifle he got that "just wouldn't shoot" turns out one of the lugs on the bolt wast even in contact with the receiver!

I was doing some math on a future build I want to do. A .338 LM. It would be cheaper to just buy a defiance action than it would be to massage a Remington action so you point is very well taken and a valid one.

In your opinion what is the most cost effective way to get a factory rifle to shoot well other than hand loading?

 

[J E Custom]

The smith putting the barrel on my .300 wm was telling me a story about a rifle he got that "just wouldn't shoot" turns out one of the lugs on the bolt wast even in contact with the receiver!

I was doing some math on a future build I want to do. A .338 LM. It would be cheaper to just buy a defiance action than it would be to massage a Remington action so you point is very well taken and a valid one.

In your opinion what is the most cost effective way to get a factory rifle to shoot well other than hand loading?

Probably a good pillar bed and float, Plus re crowning.

Also custom actions need to be checked for true and square, Most of the time they are good
but sometimes they are not. Basically they are machined just like the factory actions. The
difference is in the quality control and the acceptance criteria (Normally better).

Blueprinting an action correctly should not take a smith over 2 or 3 hours so the cost should not
be that high.

To me the very best action to build off of is one that doesent shoot well and lives in your safe.

J E CUSTOM

 

[joe0121]

Probably a good pillar bed and float, Plus re crowning.

Also custom actions need to be checked for true and square, Most of the time they are good
but sometimes they are not. Basically they are machined just like the factory actions. The
difference is in the quality control and the acceptance criteria (Normally better).

Blueprinting an action correctly should not take a smith over 2 or 3 hours so the cost should not
be that high.

To me the very best action to build off of is one that doesent shoot well and lives in your safe.

J E CUSTOM

Agreed. I am young-ish (just turned 26) so I don't have very many rifle and the ones I have are purpose built tack drivers.

However my father and law and step dad have some oldy but goodies I am looking forward to. Like an rem 700 circa 1976 with a hand made walnut stock, and a Winchester model 70 in .270. Once I finish college I'll see if I can apprentice with the local gunsmith on weekends. I learn more about guns during my 45 minute talks with the old time smiths then I ever did on the internet or in the Marine Corps.