geo4061
Well-Known Member
Elktaker go to this post Taming Muzzle Jump and click on Barrelnut's link to shooting light weight rifles. Great article and it should give you something else to try next time you go to the range.
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Bipod with sling prone
- Thread starter elktaker
- Start date
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thanks, good article. I have tried the hand over the scope first and I cannot seem to get stable with hand on scope with out muscling it there. The sling pulls slightly left on me too but I have the best horizontal groups I have shot (so it must be somewhat consistent for me).
I know my problem is related to hop and not having consistent pressure at my shoulder. I have another barrel for this gun a heavy 22 or 24" 6mmx45 that I have shot of a bipod to 400 yards and held 1 MOA and a few nice groups at .5 MOA with no wind. But recoil is minimal.
I am hoping to get to the range the next couple of days for some more testing and trying it on concrete and in a kneeling position of a barracade. I hunt with this gun so putting my bipod on a down tree is normally available in the areas I hunt, so I am interested in affects. I plan to shot a group with my hand on the scope to compare.
When shooting off of a bench the recoil direction is in a greatly straight back into your shoulder. When you switch to shoot from a bipod thru recoil will raise the barrel a little more than when you shoot from the bench. It is best to attempt to get the rifle to replicate the same recoil movement when switching to a bipod. This can be nearly accomplished by loading the bipod. This means that you put enough downward force on the rifle that when pull back on the grip the bipod leg will angle slightly forward towards the muzzle. With this method the recoil will more like when shooting on the bench. It is common for impact to be higher when shooting from bipods, preloading will help with this.
I am a big advocate of minimizing the effect my shooting position has on the rifle. I try to align my body with the rifle and avoid any pressure that would push or pull the rifle in any direction. I be live that masking has an undesired effect on recoil movement and I only use a sling when shooting free hand,
I am a big advocate of minimizing the effect my shooting position has on the rifle. I try to align my body with the rifle and avoid any pressure that would push or pull the rifle in any direction. I be live that masking has an undesired effect on recoil movement and I only use a sling when shooting free hand,
I do load bipod, problem is I can not get consistent pressure when loading my bipod so I either have to little and bipod hop one direction or too much and gun hops the other way. I got less of an affect when I switched to spiked feed. I tried using off hand to work bag and push buttstock in too shoulder but that seemed to make it worst.
Looks like tomorrow afternoon I should be able to make it to the range. I will shoot a group with and without sling at around 200 yards. I have moved my cheek rest down so that I have a relatively light cheek weld and if I put to much pressure I am too low. Hoping this will help a little. I have 21 rounds to play with tomorrow.
I would like a new muzzle brake but finding one I want in 9/16x28 thread has been a challenge. I do not think the pacnor one I have is doing anything. I want a Fat B but not response to an inquiry of that threading from them yet.
No expert here but if you're loading your bipod forward and pulling your sling towards you, you're dealing with opposing forces, however, sometimes it might just be a minute adjustment or refinement on your technique as noted in this video ...
[ame]https://youtu.be/udn8dVSiVvc?t=14[/ame]
Not familiar with Pac-nor's MB but Nathan (IdahoCTD) has a very nice 2 Piece Self Timed Brakes but not sure if he can or will thread it for your requirement due to machining recommended thread pitch/safety/material integrity issue, etc ... but might be worth a try.
Not self-timed but another option is using http://www.hollandguns.com/ brakes, he makes them with your thread requirement. I have his QD brake on one of my .300 Win Mag and is very effective.
Good luck!
Ed
Thanks I have watched this several times. Any knowledge on the JP recoil eliminator, looks like they have them in 9/16 x 28. I know they will be loud definitely for bystanders.
What else have you shot prone? When I started 2 1/2 years ago I got a 223 to practice and learn, and it jumped all over the place. I finally figured out what worked for me and now have little movement shooting an unbraked 300 WM prone. It's more about finding the proper spot in your shoulder pocket, and setting up with a natural point of aim (NPA); the bipod and rear rest must hold the rifle on target without you muscleing it into position. I use quite heavy cheek pressure after the NPA is established and do not load the bipod. If possible, experiment with a lighter recoiling rifle to figure out your best positioning.
I shot my friend's .300 RUM with that MB and it works. He really likes it but it would not be my first choice though.
I have shot off a bipod: 6mmX45 (223 necked up), Ar15's several different ones for work (all iron sights), 597 rem out to 150 YD. borrowed a 7mm rem mag a few years ago and had similar issues so use a tripod for the hunt.
No problems with point of aim changing on any 6x45 or 22lr. I have shot some of my best group of a harris. Ar15 with irons hard to tell. I know my cheek pressure is one issue and I am a skinny 6'2" have a hard time finding a pocket to put the butt stock against.
I have tilted the buttstock clockwise and is more comfortable so when if I get behind with my eyes closed it is level. With adding claw feet, I half ed my groups, but still over 1 MOA. Sling brought it under 1 moa.
To switch back to my 6mmx45 which would be great to practice on because I would be using same platform, I have to pull barrel off current rifle and find some powder to load (i have been looking for for 6 months).
I do not now anyone that knows what they are looking for to have watch me shot which is probably what I need (sling is just band-aiding my problem with the recoil). I live in Cedar City, UT.
Range report
I went to the range today and shot were I normally do (last time it was closed so I went to BLM).
I shot 5 shot group no sling 1.5 MOA
I shot 5 shot group with sling 1.5 MOA
(both at 100)
That's weird no more improvement with sling. So I investigated causes. When I shot with the sling for the first time I was in a different area in soft dirt and sunk the bipod legs in about 1 into fine gravel/dirt. The range dirt is dry hard and rocky. After anger subside with more poor groups (18 rounds worth) I decide to take my last 4 rounds off of the concrete.
group measured 1". 3 were touch and 1 I call high and believe I pushed with my cheek.
Looks like sling was giving me a false impression of accuracy.
Stilling looking for a new brake and need to reload some ammo up to work on my cheek pressure. Might try a firm cheek weld next.
Brakes I have contacted about 9/16x28
JP
precision armament m4-72 (think this is the one I would like)
Fat B (no response from email in a week and not sure I want it over the others)
I went to the range today and shot were I normally do (last time it was closed so I went to BLM).
I shot 5 shot group no sling 1.5 MOA
I shot 5 shot group with sling 1.5 MOA
(both at 100)
That's weird no more improvement with sling. So I investigated causes. When I shot with the sling for the first time I was in a different area in soft dirt and sunk the bipod legs in about 1 into fine gravel/dirt. The range dirt is dry hard and rocky. After anger subside with more poor groups (18 rounds worth) I decide to take my last 4 rounds off of the concrete.
group measured 1". 3 were touch and 1 I call high and believe I pushed with my cheek.
Looks like sling was giving me a false impression of accuracy.
Stilling looking for a new brake and need to reload some ammo up to work on my cheek pressure. Might try a firm cheek weld next.
Brakes I have contacted about 9/16x28
JP
precision armament m4-72 (think this is the one I would like)
Fat B (no response from email in a week and not sure I want it over the others)
WildRose
Well-Known Member
It's an extremely effective brake but absolutely brutal on the ears. You would never want to fire one in an enclosed blind or shooting lane or with anyone else around close to you.
Know anything about Terminator T3 or T2. They are a little pricey $200 to 220 but guy has then ready to ship and in 9/16x28. Only thing is I would have to find/pay a gunsmith in Southern Utah to open it up for 7mm. They all come .25 and ream to size.
Looks like $100 to 150 to ream it out locally (being an hour drive to a shop) so may not be option for me making the brake over $300
Anyone now how aligned the muzzlebrake hole needs to be to the threads/bore? My dad is a machinist and he can open it up for me, but i want to make sure he has it precise enough. He will make it true to the threads is the plan since he is in Ohio and I am in Utah. Assuming my pacnor threads so be very close to true to the bore?
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
Don't know anything about them. After fooling round for several yers trying out several makes of brake I settled on the North West Precision slotted muzzle brake.
Muzzle Brake Compensator Rifle or Pistol | eBay
You can't beat the price and they'll drill it to order for your caliber. All you need then really is to take it to a gunsmith to have it timed and turned down to match your barrel diameter.
Very effective brake and not hard on the ears should you have to take a shot with it and forget to put in/on your ear protection.
You'd have to ask one of our gunsmiths about just how much over caliber it needs to be drilled. You need a few thousandths over to ensure good clearance but if you go too far over it reduces the brake's effectiveness.
I just tell them when I order them what the caliber of the rifle is that it's going on and they've all been fine.
Did you contact IdahoCTD about his 2 Piece Self Timed Brakes as previously recommended?
Another option is Threaded Muzzle Brake Threaded Muzzle Brake [MB3] - $89.00 : Witt Machine
