Hunter700
Member
I have never annealed any of my brass. I have several hundered 22-250 cases that I have loaded 4-5 times I am thinking it is time to anneal them. I was wondering what the best way to do this is?
Best way to anneal brass?
- Thread starter Hunter700
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Winchester 69
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 430
The Hornady kit is probably the simplest way to get started and have good immediate results.
Here's some more info:
June, 96 Cases
The heat sensitive crayons suggested don't work well on brass according to those who have used them.
Here's some more info:
June, 96 Cases
The heat sensitive crayons suggested don't work well on brass according to those who have used them.
ss7mm
Well-Known Member
The best way, to me, is to use Ken Light's BC 1000 annealer. You can see it here--> Ken Light BC 1000 annealer web page
It's one of those things like quality optics or a custom rifle. You moan and groan when you pay the purchase price but every time you use it you grin and think how great it is to have it.
I've tried a lot of different ways but the Light annealer makes it fun.
It's one of those things like quality optics or a custom rifle. You moan and groan when you pay the purchase price but every time you use it you grin and think how great it is to have it.
I've tried a lot of different ways but the Light annealer makes it fun.
Last edited:
geargrinder
Well-Known Member
Midway is coming out with one similar to the Ken Light.
Nowhere near the bling of Ken's but very similar in design.
Saw it in the new Frankfort Armory Catalog. Midway said it would be mid-year before it would be available.
Nowhere near the bling of Ken's but very similar in design.
Saw it in the new Frankfort Armory Catalog. Midway said it would be mid-year before it would be available.
Joel Russo
Well-Known Member
The best way, to me, is to use Ken Light's BC 1000 annealer. You can see it here--> Ken Light BC 1000 annealer web page
It's one of those things like quality optics or a custom rifle. You moan and groan when you pay the purchase price but every time you use it you grin and think how great it is to have it.
I've tried a lot of different ways but the Light annealer makes it fun.
I agree 100%.
I use the Light annealer exclusively and often with excellent results.
esshup
Well-Known Member
I found this: Cartridge case annealing. Properties of cartridge cases & factors affecting the annealing process, how & why of brass annealing Interesting! I was wondering how to use the annealer after looking at it.
The only cases that I anneal are 6 mm Remington.
I was taught a simple process over 25 years ago from a man that knew more about firearms than any one I have ever met. He had his own reloading business along with manufacturing lead bullets.
His simple way was to take an old ice cube tray, metal, and fill the tray to ¾ to 1 inch of warm water.
With the fired primers still in, set the cases in the water, case mouth up, you do not want them to fill with water. This is important that they do not have water in them or they will turn into steam engines.
Next take a normal hardware store canister blow torch, like one used for removing paint and heat the top of each case until they have a soft glow. Not bright, just a soft red glow. For a 6mm REM the top ½ inch of the case should be heated.
Then you let them cool slowly on there own and you're done.
The tops of the cases have a darkened slightly cloudy aria.
The water keeps the high pressure bottom aria of the case from annealing.
It's worked for me for over 25 years and although I don't push my 6mm to earth shaking velocities, I do get a good number of reloads this way.
One note I want to add, you need to practice with the blow torch so that it will heat the case but not knock it over.
I also use junk cases when I start to get the temperature and the torch just right.
It works.
I was taught a simple process over 25 years ago from a man that knew more about firearms than any one I have ever met. He had his own reloading business along with manufacturing lead bullets.
His simple way was to take an old ice cube tray, metal, and fill the tray to ¾ to 1 inch of warm water.
With the fired primers still in, set the cases in the water, case mouth up, you do not want them to fill with water. This is important that they do not have water in them or they will turn into steam engines.
Next take a normal hardware store canister blow torch, like one used for removing paint and heat the top of each case until they have a soft glow. Not bright, just a soft red glow. For a 6mm REM the top ½ inch of the case should be heated.
Then you let them cool slowly on there own and you're done.
The tops of the cases have a darkened slightly cloudy aria.
The water keeps the high pressure bottom aria of the case from annealing.
It's worked for me for over 25 years and although I don't push my 6mm to earth shaking velocities, I do get a good number of reloads this way.
One note I want to add, you need to practice with the blow torch so that it will heat the case but not knock it over.
I also use junk cases when I start to get the temperature and the torch just right.
It works.
Last edited:
