Best scope mounting option?

fishrmann

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Jul 13, 2012
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Hi all, first post here - great site!

I currently have a Tikka T3 Lite, in 7mm Rem Mag. Planning on upgrading optics on top of it to perhaps the Vortex PST 4-16x50, and hope to start shooting beyond the standard 200 yard range I'm used too :D

Will not longer be able to utilize current 1" DNZ base/rings...... do I replace with another similar DNZ mount in 30mm, or get a rail like this:

Tikka T3 Picatinny Rail Scope Mount: Evolution Gun Works Inc.

and use a set of rings like these?

Weaver - Tactical Scope Mounts - 6-Hole Picatinny Rings
 
Nice LR rig. For best optical performance, keep the scope elevation adjustment below 30 MOA. I would opt for the 20 MOA EGW base. That will give you more options in scopes and scope placement.

The Weaver 6-hole rings are extruded. Lap them and you'll be fine.
 
Lap the crap out of the rings.....:)

I was quite taken back by the retail price of the Wheeler lapping bars so I took an appropriate length of bar stock, turned it to 30mm plus, sent it out for a case harden and ground it to 30mm - 0.001 I knurled the end (post hardening) for a better grip. Not parkerized but does the job.
 
you might see how much headroom you have with the current base/rings... it won't take a lot to get the 7mag to 1000... 28 to 30 moa or so...
 
Thanks everyone!!!! Are there any different rings you'd reccomend using? I'll be going with he Viper PST 4-14x50, can I get by with medium rings or have to go high?
 
That will depend entirely on the height the base sits above the receiver and the barrel shape at the receiver end. I just mounted the same optic on my Savage 11 LWH (308) with Talley one piece medium height rings, lapped of course... The Talley's eliminate the rail, mount direct to the receiver but aren't available in a MOA cant from Talley. I went that route for weight savings. So long as you have adequate elevation adjustment in the optic you use, you can still get out a considerable distance before running out of vertical (elevation) travel, in this case, I'm only looking for a 400 yard maximum target trajectory.

For optimum functionality you want the objective (large end) of the optic as close to the barrel as possible without touching but still have enough clearance at the ocular end (eyepiece) to work the bolt comfortably and still maintain proper cheek weld on your stock.... probably why I always keep several heights and makes of rings on hand.

Ring selection is also predicated on recoil. A heavy recoiling firearm requires an agressive clamping ring to insure the optic don't move when the gun cycles, an example would be a 338 Lapua. In particular, mine has the EGW cant rail with Warne Maxima steel, vertically split rings because they offer increased grip but then they weigh considerably more and are markedly more difficult to lap because of the vertical split.
 
I have two Remington 700 Senderos chambered in 7mm STW with Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP EBR-1 MOA Reticle scopes on each of them. The set-up I use on each of them is a 20 MOA EGW for the Picatinny rail and low Burris 30mm Tactical Rings. They seem to hold pretty well with the recoil and with the 20 MOA rail I can dial it out to over 1,400 yards if I want.

I also have a Remington 700 LSS chambered in a .257 Weatherby Magnum also with a Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP EBR-1 MOA Reticle scope on it too. The set-up I use on that rifle is Talley Lightweight 2-Piece Scope Mounts with Integral 30mm Rings (Matte Medium). I really like that set-up on that rifle too. With the set-up on this rifle I can dial it out to about 1,000 yards if I want.

Below are a few pictures of my twin Remington 700 Sendero 7mm STW rifles with the set-up I mentioned above.
 

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You need a set of 6 hole rings like you need 4 rumps! They wont do a thing for you the same brand thats 4 hole wont do.

I know a few gals with the 6 hole syndrome in the rump department...lol

The 6 hole rings 'look macho' but do nothing except asthetically and have an extra set of screws and cost more over 4 hole flavor.

Grip so far as resistance to recoil forces has more to do with contact area between the ring and the scope barrel, the concentricity of the ring (which is why lapping rings is accepted practice)(and not only improves grip but eliminates the dreaded ring mark which devalues the scope should you want to sell it....) and the grip of the ring base itself on the rail or receiver.

One reason I like the one piece ring/base combination. More parts equals more chance for movement.

Ocasionally, I see owners who utilize 4 ring sets instead of the usual 2, 2 in fromt and 2 in back. It looks neat but IMO, it's overkill, extra weight and added expense...for little if any gain. That might be of value if the rifle kicked (recoiled) so hard that it knocked you on your butt everytime you touched it off but that don't sound like fun at all.
 
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