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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding Fierce Rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 2935950" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>Probably just the angle of the shot and lighting, but it looks like the area to right/bottom of the rear pillar might be proud of the pillar? The rear pillar needs to be flush or slightly proud of the glass around it.</p><p></p><p>Bedding is dramatically simplified when you already have factory installed pillars- this establishes the elevation of the receiver in the stock. It's as simple as removing adequate material (glass) everywhere else to allow for the thickness of the epoxy bedding.</p><p></p><p>Plenty of info online- this one (not sure if this is the one referenced above) is a good one, a bit different in that pillars are set at the same time as the receiver bedding. </p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html[/URL]</p><p></p><p>He uses electrical tape stretched around the stock/action, I use surgical tubing- but the idea is the same. You want to avoid point loads and compress the receiver into the stock evenly. As I stated, the pillars will establish how your action lies in the stock (no need to wrap the barrel with tape due to this), but you want to make sure you've got the action bottomed out on both front and rear pillars.</p><p></p><p>A properly done bedding job can only help. Done incorrectly, will stress (warp) the action when the action screws are torqued.</p><p></p><p>At this point, Fierce has accuracy tested the rifle and it's met their requirement. I would recommend you first, grab a box of the factory ammo used for their testing and see if you can duplicate the results at the target. I'll add one more very important point, because we know nothing about you or your shooting skills... do you have the experience/ skills to shoot a lightweight magnum like this accurately? Not a dig by any means, but it's a fact that some shooters are recoil sensitive- and shooting cloverleafs with a 6 lb., .300 WM is a tall order. If this is your first lightweight magnum, might have someone else with that experience drive it to see if their results differ. </p><p></p><p>Not trying to dissuade you (well, as a smith- maybe a bit)- but unless this is your only rifle, get your first experience bedding something else before tackling a $4K rifle. If it were a rifle of unknown accuracy (unfired by the builder), it would merit a lot more investigation, beginning with borescoping the barrel/chambering. But, you've got a well known builder that's accuracy tested the rifle- and unless you think they're faking the targets- believe the target you're looking at. It's most likely <em>not </em>a problem with the rifle, more likely your handloads and trying to find the sweet spot...JMO</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 2935950, member: 68758"] Probably just the angle of the shot and lighting, but it looks like the area to right/bottom of the rear pillar might be proud of the pillar? The rear pillar needs to be flush or slightly proud of the glass around it. Bedding is dramatically simplified when you already have factory installed pillars- this establishes the elevation of the receiver in the stock. It's as simple as removing adequate material (glass) everywhere else to allow for the thickness of the epoxy bedding. Plenty of info online- this one (not sure if this is the one referenced above) is a good one, a bit different in that pillars are set at the same time as the receiver bedding. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html[/URL] He uses electrical tape stretched around the stock/action, I use surgical tubing- but the idea is the same. You want to avoid point loads and compress the receiver into the stock evenly. As I stated, the pillars will establish how your action lies in the stock (no need to wrap the barrel with tape due to this), but you want to make sure you've got the action bottomed out on both front and rear pillars. A properly done bedding job can only help. Done incorrectly, will stress (warp) the action when the action screws are torqued. At this point, Fierce has accuracy tested the rifle and it's met their requirement. I would recommend you first, grab a box of the factory ammo used for their testing and see if you can duplicate the results at the target. I'll add one more very important point, because we know nothing about you or your shooting skills... do you have the experience/ skills to shoot a lightweight magnum like this accurately? Not a dig by any means, but it's a fact that some shooters are recoil sensitive- and shooting cloverleafs with a 6 lb., .300 WM is a tall order. If this is your first lightweight magnum, might have someone else with that experience drive it to see if their results differ. Not trying to dissuade you (well, as a smith- maybe a bit)- but unless this is your only rifle, get your first experience bedding something else before tackling a $4K rifle. If it were a rifle of unknown accuracy (unfired by the builder), it would merit a lot more investigation, beginning with borescoping the barrel/chambering. But, you've got a well known builder that's accuracy tested the rifle- and unless you think they're faking the targets- believe the target you're looking at. It's most likely [I]not [/I]a problem with the rifle, more likely your handloads and trying to find the sweet spot...JMO [/QUOTE]
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