Looking for tips on bedding a Mauser 98 into a Hogue stock with an aluminum block. How would one go about this? Just bed the bottom of the action where it's flat or bed up the sides also like you would do on a round action? I did my Remington 700 and I also bedded my Savage 17 HMR with good results, but both of those were round actions and it seemed more straightforward.
Bedding a Mauser
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sable tireur
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There are probably a dozen or more books which cover this process in detail. Check your local library.
I know, you want the information now and you want free.
So...
Bedding a Mauser M98 is no different from a round action really, you just have to pay attention the voids which will catch and hold the epoxy bedding compound. These all get filled with clay then coat the entire bottom, sides and screws with a clear paste was. Once the paste wax dries, buff it very lightly with a folded paper towel. The same process applied to the bottom metal as well. I use the action screws to assemble but there are folks who use bedding screws or rubber tubing instead.
Here is a video which covers most of the ideas:
Enjoy!
I know, you want the information now and you want free.
So...Bedding a Mauser M98 is no different from a round action really, you just have to pay attention the voids which will catch and hold the epoxy bedding compound. These all get filled with clay then coat the entire bottom, sides and screws with a clear paste was. Once the paste wax dries, buff it very lightly with a folded paper towel. The same process applied to the bottom metal as well. I use the action screws to assemble but there are folks who use bedding screws or rubber tubing instead.
Here is a video which covers most of the ideas:
Enjoy!
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
I will add that I make my own 45 degree tapered cone washers to keep the stock bolt holes centred while bedding sets.
I use all thread of the correct thread/pitch, the cone washers and a nut lightly snugged by fingers, no tools. I use these for pillar bedding too.
The only action type I use tubing on are Rugers, either M77's or MKII's. The reason is the angled front screw is supporting the entire action when the bedding sets up if you use screws, this can impart undue and unwanted stress in the action when it is finally tightened after bedding is done. I do these WITHOUT any clearance around the recoil lug, they are firm bedded. I bed the recoil lug first, then the middle and finally the tang.
If it's a wooden stocked model, I always add pillars at the same time as doing the recoil lug. The tang is left last as it acts as the datum that the action stays squarely in the stock. Have seen Rugers and Mausers that ran uphill in the stock from tang to recoil lug because there was no support left when the recoil lug and barrel channel were altered.
It doesn't affect function, but it is butt ugly.
Cheers.
I use all thread of the correct thread/pitch, the cone washers and a nut lightly snugged by fingers, no tools. I use these for pillar bedding too.
The only action type I use tubing on are Rugers, either M77's or MKII's. The reason is the angled front screw is supporting the entire action when the bedding sets up if you use screws, this can impart undue and unwanted stress in the action when it is finally tightened after bedding is done. I do these WITHOUT any clearance around the recoil lug, they are firm bedded. I bed the recoil lug first, then the middle and finally the tang.
If it's a wooden stocked model, I always add pillars at the same time as doing the recoil lug. The tang is left last as it acts as the datum that the action stays squarely in the stock. Have seen Rugers and Mausers that ran uphill in the stock from tang to recoil lug because there was no support left when the recoil lug and barrel channel were altered.
It doesn't affect function, but it is butt ugly.
Cheers.
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