Bedding a Choate Stock???

[CaptnC]

I am working on a Savage LA build that I'm going to put in a Choate stock. It has the aluminum block in it, but it's just a "V" shaped channel where the action sits.

I was wondering if my accuracy would benefit from Accu-glassing the action?

Also...do you bed the entire recoil lug...front as well as back...I ask because I've bedded one of the cheap plastic Savage stocks trying to stiffen the stock. I did bed front and back. I read recently that you only bed the recoil lug to the rear only.

 

[TwoMore]

Captn, I am shooting a big 7 in a choate UV and I full bedded it. I was having some group shifting with it where they would shift about 3/4 minute , it would shoot one hole 3 or 4 shots then one hole left or right 3 or 4 shots, bedding fixed it. this rifle has two different barrels that I shoot on that action-ed stock so I didnt bed past the lug just the lug to the rear but I love they way it shoots
Good Luck

 

[CaptnC]

Thanks for the info. I also plan to use mine for different calibers so I was not going to bed the barrel nut anyway.

IIRC...they stood the rifle on the butt plate to make sure the recoil lug was making firm contact before tight ing the action screws.

Speaking of action screws...do you tighten the front screw to a different spec than the rear? Or do you tighten them the same amount?

 

[TwoMore]

I tighten the same on both

 

[Outlaw6.0]

You can bed it for sure. The question is: why? The main purpose of a chassis or "mini" chassis in this case was a way around costly and time consuming bedding. Before you do that try this simple test.

With your action screws properly torqued, loosen the rear action screw and look/measure to see if the action lifted from the v-block; it shouldn't. Repeat for other side of action.

If it lifts, bed it. If it doesn't you still can of course but I don't see any gain at that point.

Just my .002.


t

 

[CaptnC]

I know what your saying Outlaw6.0 that was my #1 reason for buying one, but I did a mock up of my current parts. I didn't feel it was going to have repeatability from one install to the next.

I plan to run at two maybe three calibers off this one set up. If I can figure out how to do it without removing the action from the stock it might not be an issue.

I looks like it could rotate some from one removal to the next install...just not a real positive positioning of the action. It might actual be fine but it seems like there is a lot of room for it to rotate slightly.

 

[CaptnC]

It looks nice...but it sure wasn't as solid of a connection I thought it would be.

Here is my "mock up" of parts that I have so far...it has the original barrel in the photo...I've already spun that on off...waiting for my ER Shaw to get here...it should be here next Wednesday

 

[Outlaw6.0]

Are the action screw holes in the stock big enough to allow lateral rotation? Yikes, I hope not. Even if they did, you're still going to have to re-zero your optic after the bbl swap anyway.

Honestly, my goal isn't to talk you out of bedding your stock, I promise. Perhaps I'm just playing devil's advocate.... I just can't see the point is all.


t

 

[CaptnC]

Trust me OL6.0 I wouldn't mess with it if I felt I didn't need to.

Here is my thoughts...you put a level on the scope to make sure everything is plumb...if you set the action and it is fully rotated clock wise...then the next time you're counter clock wise you will have a lot to play with to get everything back to where it needs to be.

Is it enough to really matter...I'm not sure but the action moves a lot in the channel before I tighten the screws. I was very disappointed when I did my "mock up".

I will play with it a little more when the barrel gets here next week.

 

[blinderthanascope]

bedding done proper will decrease stress points, watch Alex Wheelers Video on a bedding job done correct. it won't hurt to skim bed and do not bed the nut whatever u do, if you change barrels again you will have to hog out around the nut on account of different headspace maybe I could be rong I is rong lota times

 

[blinderthanascope]

I leave my rear action screw less than the front because it can bind the bolt, but that's what I done my bedding job could be the culprit lol not a pro at it

 

[CaptnC]

btp, That is what I've heard...tighten the rear less than the front. That will be tough for me to do, been turning wrenches for 42 years...tighter is better!

My plan is to wrap the barrel nut in tape and not bed past it. I want to full float the entire barrel. It seems all the chassis are set up that way. My 300wm is done that way even though it is in a wood stock. My bedding ends at the barrel.

I've done a bunch of bedding jobs but I'm still learning little things as I go

 

[Lefty38-55]

That is what I've heard...tighten the rear less than the front. That will be tough for me to do, been turning wrenches for 42 years ... tighter is better!

I beg to differ ... tighter is not better ... the PROPER or CORRECT torque for the assembly - either by design or verified testing - is better!

Yeah, I'd rather have something 'too snug' than 'too loose', but in this case with action screws, actually testing will give you a superior outcome IMHO.

 

[CaptnC]

Lefty,
If you re-read the words before the ones you high lighted...

Been turning wrenches on school buses (diesel engines) in that business a torque wrench is used to prove your not strong enough to get it tight! Tighter is better!

But I think I quaified my comment by acknowledging in a previous post I know Savage actions need the rear screward looser than the front. So yeah I get that you don't crank it tight plus a quarter turn.

When I put my Savage together I'm going to have an inch pounds torque wrench at hand.

Thanks for your post...you never know when someone might miss the things you pointed out!