Barrel diameter/length vs ballance and accuracy

[dwm]

I am considering purchasing a semi-long, heavy barrel.

How do you figure out the best taper and whether to flute a long, heavy barrel, before you buy it?

The reason I ask is because one of the guys at the range thinks he has lost accuracy or the ability to shoot well because the barrel was long and heavy which resulted in the rifle balancing too far forward when he was shooting.

Does this make any sense? If it does, how do you avoid this when purchasing a new barrel?

I am not quite sure how to figure out how long and heavy is too much. (short of a lot of boring math ...)

 

[britz]

I can understand the ballance thing. I have a cheap savage 12flv with the plastic stock, 26" varmint varrel. It felt like the thing's ballence point was not much behind the bipod. Simple solution... add weight to the stock and it helped. Took off the recoil pad, bored a hole in the styrafoam and added lead shots until I felt better.

As far as the accuracy thing goes... I've heard that too and believe it has some merit but I can tell you that I wouldn't build a varmint rifle with less than a 24" barrel and I doubt if I would go with less than 26".

Just my humble uninformed opinion

 

[BountyHunter]

Generally, the barrel length has zero to do with accuracy. Rather it is a matter of tuning the load to the barrel, no matter what the length.

Just look at the most accurate rifles around, the PPC guns with 20-22" barrels.

However, the overall gun balance will effect the ability to shoot the gun.

The decision for taper and fluting depends on weight limits, desired MV, etc, whether the barrel is cut or buttoned (ie cut can be fluted at anytime, while button must be fluted before final lapping).

what is your target weight, what do certain profiles weigh, (fluting removes only 6-8 oz normally). Anything needed over that, better change the length or dimensions.

BH

 

[J E Custom]

I am considering purchasing a semi-long, heavy barrel.

How do you figure out the best taper and whether to flute a long, heavy barrel, before you buy it?

The reason I ask is because one of the guys at the range thinks he has lost accuracy or the ability to shoot well because the barrel was long and heavy which resulted in the rifle balancing too far forward when he was shooting.

Does this make any sense? If it does, how do you avoid this when purchasing a new barrel?

I am not quite sure how to figure out how long and heavy is too much. (short of a lot of boring math ...)

The first issue would be if overall weight is a problem then any heavy barrel contour you decide
on will not make you happy.

A lot of people buy a heavy barrel and then place a composite stock on it and the ballance
point will be near the forend.

Take the same barrel and replace it with laminated stock and the balance point moves back
to the magazine area.

If you want a light weight rifle a #2 or 3 contour barrel with a muzzel break and a composite
stock with a 1 1/2 to 2 lb scope would be the way to go.

If you don't mind the weight and the advantages it brings then I would use something like
a Lilja hunter bench rest taper (Has a fast taper) 26" long and a laminate stock
with any scope around 2lbs and it should weigh between 8 and 10 lbs.

For a full blown long range rifle I would go with a # 7 or #8 taper 30" or more and a laminate
stock with one of the big scopes 3 to 4 lbs. this rifle will weigh 12 to 18lbs .

Fluting does not save that much weight but it looks good and adds cost to the biuld.

As to the issue of a heavy barrel not shooting as well as a light one it is just the opposite.

The main advantage to a heavy barrel is they are less finicky to what load you place in them
and they are steader because of the weight . also they don't need a muzzle break.

Just something to think about
J E CUSTOM