barrel and action ?

[bubba36x]

ok im taking my factory barrel out of my rem 700 sps to thread the end of the barrel for a muzzle brake and am wundering if i need to do anything to the headspace when i put the barrel back in the action

 

[J E Custom]

ok im taking my factory barrel out of my rem 700 sps to thread the end of the barrel for a muzzle brake and am wundering if i need to do anything to the headspace when i put the barrel back in the action

Check the headspace before tearing it down and then when you re assemble it check it
again.

It will probable be arround .001 or .002 tighter so if you start with a head space of less
than .001 you may have to kiss the chamber with a reamer to return it to .001 or .002
headspace.

A lot of lathes will take the barreled reciever with out breaking the barrel to reciever fit.
Just strip everything off the reciever and it will work if you have a centering device for
the head stock(Some call it a spider) that will fit over the reciever and true it up.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Kevin Cram]

I agree with JE Custom. Check it before hand, but you should be fine just unscrewing the barrel and putting it back together. I'd clean all the factory gunk out of the threads before you put it back together though. Like JE Custom stated if your spindle through hole is big enough I'd leave the action attached if you can and just slip it back inside. I wrap a rag around the action and some masking tape to keep the rag in place. With my barrel fixture I just indicate the barrel bore in and cut the thread for the brake. If you do it this way some sort of support should be used to keep the barrel from whipping inside the spindle.

 

[Fitch]

I agree with JE Custom, I've crowned and installed muzzle brakes with the receiver still on the barrel. If you can stick it thorugh the headstock in your lathe, like this:

And have either added a spider to the back end, as shown in the picture, or have cross drilled the spindle for support spider bolts, then just do as JE suggests, strip the receiver, indicate it in carefully, and have at it with out unscrewing the receiver from the barrel.

The barrel in the picture is 24" long. It's the re-chambered barrel from my .22-250 LRPV that is set up for crowning. With the spider chuck in place of the 4J the spindle is short enough that I can chamber 19" barrels which is handy. The micrometer carriage stop was borrowed from my 9" South Bend.

Fitch

 

[Fergal White]

Ive threaded literally thousands of rifles and never once have I had to remove a barrel from an action. I rod the muzzle with the appropriate rod and bushing and using a four jaw and a rear spider I go ahead and thread the barrel. Dont take the barrel off if you can avoid it.