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<blockquote data-quote="jon.henry755" data-source="post: 682652" data-attributes="member: 29115"><p>Hi Riflehunter,</p><p>Below is a reprint of a thread that was written by Dorge Huang, the owner of Firenock. Dorge is not only brilliant, but also has degrees in Electrical Engineering and many years of experience with archery, hunting and numerous other related skills. </p><p></p><p>I would doubt that anybody would find any type of disagreement with his step-by-steps unless they have no idea what is the absolute best way of properly preparing and fletching Carbon Shaft Arrows. Dorge has made some minor updates to this list recently, but they are not very important unless one is trying to perfect the process by eliminating contaminants from playing a roll in the process. I would suggest reading and retaining these steps until they become second nature, since this is the only fully correct way to fletch arrows.</p><p></p><p>As a chemist, and spent a good time in labs I can tell you the real key points about the gluing applications. Surface treatment/cleaning, glue age, cure environment, EVEN pressure, and the glue's actual spec will guarantee results. Any glue IF used correctly will give you good results. That is why I publish arrow prep and glue procedures. Case in point, if you put a tiny bit of WD 40 on your shaft just before you glue the vane on, how good you think it will work. Or use super glue in new Orleans in June in an open garage, the moisture and heat in the air would make CA less effective. Or use so call powder based cleaners before using glue. It is all less ideal for glueing. Henkels publish the most extensive guides for glueing any surface; if followed you can technically glue anything together. I have even successfully glue milk jugs successfully. FYI, most super glue will drop strength by 50% after 12 months from the time it is made! That is why I have manufacturing date on every package of glue I sell,</p><p></p><p>Below is what I publish for using AG0600 with Aerovane jig. FYI, each vane will hold 650lbs after 11-15 seconds.</p><p></p><p><strong><em>Aerovane Fletching procedure</em></strong></p><p><strong>To Fletch Aerovane, the following material are needed;</strong></p><p><strong>a) Aerovane(s)</strong></p><p><strong>b)Arrow shaft(s)</strong></p><p><strong>c) A precision index vane jig</strong></p><p><strong>d) A bottle of 500 centipoises (cP) or higher viscosity superglue (e.g. </strong></p><p><strong> Firenock Aerovane glue AG0600, Goat-tough, G5 G-LOC BLU GLUE)</strong></p><p><strong>e) A bottle of 100% pure Acetone (generally available at WallMart cosmetic </strong></p><p><strong> section or any Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint department)</strong>.</p><p><strong>f) Q-tips that do not have plastic or synthetic material in them</strong></p><p><strong>g) Tiny glass cup for the Q-tip to dip into</strong></p><p><strong>h) A roll of paper towels</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Procedure</strong></p><p><strong>1) Thoroughly clean the surface of the shaft(s) by dipping the shaft(s) into a </strong></p><p><strong> bottle of 100% pure acetone</strong>.</p><p><strong>2) Swirl the shaft inside the acetone bottle for a few minutes to loosen all </strong></p><p><strong> particles and dissolve all possible contaminate on the shaft(s).</strong></p><p><strong>3) Wipe dry with clean paper towel</strong>.</p><p><strong>4) Let air dry, then the surface of the shaft(s) is ready for fletching</strong>.</p><p><strong>5) Insert the Aerovane in a vane clamp</strong>.</p><p><strong>6) Dip one end of the Q-Tip into the acetone and wipe down the base of the </strong></p><p><strong> vane from one end to the other</strong>.</p><p><strong>7) Take the dry end of the Q-Tip and wipe dry the vane in the same direction </strong></p><p><strong> as above</strong>.</p><p><strong>8) Apply a small bead of glue down the length of the vane base</strong>. <strong>This should </strong></p><p><strong> be approximately 1/3 as wide as the base of the vane.</strong></p><p><strong>9) Place the back end of the clamp against the inner wall of the jig just </strong></p><p><strong> above the arrow.</strong></p><p><strong>10) Slowly lower the clamp until the magnets grab hold of the clamp</strong>.</p><p><strong>11) Firmly push the clamp all the way to the arrow, and wait the allotted </strong></p><p><strong> time depending on the type of glue you are using. (Firenock Aerovane </strong></p><p><strong> Glue setting time is 11-15 seconds)</strong>.</p><p><strong>12) Open the clamp to free the vane from the clamp and rotate the vane </strong></p><p><strong> away from the clamp while the clamp is still on the magnet</strong>.</p><p><strong>13) With the vane away, slide the clamp away from the jig and away from </strong></p><p><strong> the magnet at no less than 45 degree from the magnet</strong>.</p><p><strong>14) Take the Q-Tip swabbed with Acetone and wipe down the blade part of </strong></p><p><strong> the clamp</strong> <strong>to remove any residue and clean the blade surface and </strong></p><p><strong> edges. </strong></p><p><strong>15) Wait a few seconds to allow the clamp to dry</strong>.</p><p><strong>16) Repeat step 5 - 15 for the next vane</strong> <strong>until all vanes are finished.</strong></p><p><strong>17) Once all vanes are finished, add a small drop of glue to the front edge </strong></p><p><strong> and rear edge of each vane where it meets the arrow shaft. This </strong></p><p><strong> provides both a slight ramp and also adds a more secure attachment </strong></p><p><strong> point for anchoring vanes to the shaft during deep penetrations.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong>Regards,</p><p></p><p>Jon Henry</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jon.henry755, post: 682652, member: 29115"] Hi Riflehunter, Below is a reprint of a thread that was written by Dorge Huang, the owner of Firenock. Dorge is not only brilliant, but also has degrees in Electrical Engineering and many years of experience with archery, hunting and numerous other related skills. I would doubt that anybody would find any type of disagreement with his step-by-steps unless they have no idea what is the absolute best way of properly preparing and fletching Carbon Shaft Arrows. Dorge has made some minor updates to this list recently, but they are not very important unless one is trying to perfect the process by eliminating contaminants from playing a roll in the process. I would suggest reading and retaining these steps until they become second nature, since this is the only fully correct way to fletch arrows. As a chemist, and spent a good time in labs I can tell you the real key points about the gluing applications. Surface treatment/cleaning, glue age, cure environment, EVEN pressure, and the glue's actual spec will guarantee results. Any glue IF used correctly will give you good results. That is why I publish arrow prep and glue procedures. Case in point, if you put a tiny bit of WD 40 on your shaft just before you glue the vane on, how good you think it will work. Or use super glue in new Orleans in June in an open garage, the moisture and heat in the air would make CA less effective. Or use so call powder based cleaners before using glue. It is all less ideal for glueing. Henkels publish the most extensive guides for glueing any surface; if followed you can technically glue anything together. I have even successfully glue milk jugs successfully. FYI, most super glue will drop strength by 50% after 12 months from the time it is made! That is why I have manufacturing date on every package of glue I sell, Below is what I publish for using AG0600 with Aerovane jig. FYI, each vane will hold 650lbs after 11-15 seconds. [B][I]Aerovane Fletching procedure[/I][/B] [B]To Fletch Aerovane, the following material are needed;[/B] [B]a) Aerovane(s)[/B] [B]b)Arrow shaft(s)[/B] [B]c) A precision index vane jig[/B] [B]d) A bottle of 500 centipoises (cP) or higher viscosity superglue (e.g. Firenock Aerovane glue AG0600, Goat-tough, G5 G-LOC BLU GLUE)[/B] [B]e) A bottle of 100% pure Acetone (generally available at WallMart cosmetic section or any Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint department)[/B]. [B]f) Q-tips that do not have plastic or synthetic material in them[/B] [B]g) Tiny glass cup for the Q-tip to dip into[/B] [B]h) A roll of paper towels[/B] [B]Procedure[/B] [B]1) Thoroughly clean the surface of the shaft(s) by dipping the shaft(s) into a bottle of 100% pure acetone[/B]. [B]2) Swirl the shaft inside the acetone bottle for a few minutes to loosen all particles and dissolve all possible contaminate on the shaft(s).[/B] [B]3) Wipe dry with clean paper towel[/B]. [B]4) Let air dry, then the surface of the shaft(s) is ready for fletching[/B]. [B]5) Insert the Aerovane in a vane clamp[/B]. [B]6) Dip one end of the Q-Tip into the acetone and wipe down the base of the vane from one end to the other[/B]. [B]7) Take the dry end of the Q-Tip and wipe dry the vane in the same direction as above[/B]. [B]8) Apply a small bead of glue down the length of the vane base[/B]. [B]This should be approximately 1/3 as wide as the base of the vane.[/B] [B]9) Place the back end of the clamp against the inner wall of the jig just above the arrow.[/B] [B]10) Slowly lower the clamp until the magnets grab hold of the clamp[/B]. [B]11) Firmly push the clamp all the way to the arrow, and wait the allotted time depending on the type of glue you are using. (Firenock Aerovane Glue setting time is 11-15 seconds)[/B]. [B]12) Open the clamp to free the vane from the clamp and rotate the vane away from the clamp while the clamp is still on the magnet[/B]. [B]13) With the vane away, slide the clamp away from the jig and away from the magnet at no less than 45 degree from the magnet[/B]. [B]14) Take the Q-Tip swabbed with Acetone and wipe down the blade part of the clamp[/B] [B]to remove any residue and clean the blade surface and edges. [/B] [B]15) Wait a few seconds to allow the clamp to dry[/B]. [B]16) Repeat step 5 - 15 for the next vane[/B] [B]until all vanes are finished.[/B] [B]17) Once all vanes are finished, add a small drop of glue to the front edge and rear edge of each vane where it meets the arrow shaft. This provides both a slight ramp and also adds a more secure attachment point for anchoring vanes to the shaft during deep penetrations. [/B]Regards, Jon Henry [/QUOTE]
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