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Guest
Guest
Has anyone used wipe out by SharpShoot-R. This is a copper removing solvent that is used without having to pull a brush through your bore. If this stuff works, I'm buying a case!
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It does work... and I did buy a case, lol.
Passed a couple cans around to my buddies... guess that makes me the de-facto Maryland Wipe-Out distributor.
It's not any faster than traditional methods, but it is a lot less work.
I usually hit it once, and let it sit for 30 min to 1 hour, then punch it out. This removes the bulk of powder fouling, carbon, and some of the copper. Then I reapply, let sit 24 hours, punch it out again, and it is usually squeaky clean. (literally)
When I went to the Chandler Precision Rifle I course, we would clean at least twice per day, only had about an hour or so... so I would dry-brush some of the crud out, apply Wipe-out, wait 15 mins, punch it out, apply hoppes #9, hit it with JB, apply Wipe-out again, leave it for as long as I had time, then punch it again, and remove the Wipe-out with alcohol.
This would give me a good "field" cleaning, not 100%, but good enough to shoot some great groups. Some folks don't like to get their stuff that clean, but I don't like to let it build up.
Went to Bulletfest V last weekend (full-auto shoot), ran about 600 rounds thru my AK, didn't clean till I got home. Two applications of Wipe-out, and she's as clean as a whistle
Be sure to hit the bore with oil, if you're not going to shoot it right away, as Wipe-out strips the metal bare.
Good Shooting,
Marc
Passed a couple cans around to my buddies... guess that makes me the de-facto Maryland Wipe-Out distributor.
It's not any faster than traditional methods, but it is a lot less work.
I usually hit it once, and let it sit for 30 min to 1 hour, then punch it out. This removes the bulk of powder fouling, carbon, and some of the copper. Then I reapply, let sit 24 hours, punch it out again, and it is usually squeaky clean. (literally)
When I went to the Chandler Precision Rifle I course, we would clean at least twice per day, only had about an hour or so... so I would dry-brush some of the crud out, apply Wipe-out, wait 15 mins, punch it out, apply hoppes #9, hit it with JB, apply Wipe-out again, leave it for as long as I had time, then punch it again, and remove the Wipe-out with alcohol.
This would give me a good "field" cleaning, not 100%, but good enough to shoot some great groups. Some folks don't like to get their stuff that clean, but I don't like to let it build up.
Went to Bulletfest V last weekend (full-auto shoot), ran about 600 rounds thru my AK, didn't clean till I got home. Two applications of Wipe-out, and she's as clean as a whistle
Be sure to hit the bore with oil, if you're not going to shoot it right away, as Wipe-out strips the metal bare.
Good Shooting,
Marc
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I'm also interested to hear about the effectiveness of Wipe-Out. Particularely interested to know if this stuff is SAFE for use in custom barrels.
Wipe-out link
VH
[ 07-02-2004: Message edited by: Varmint Hunter ]
[ 07-02-2004: Message edited by: Varmint Hunter ]
Wipe-out link
VH
[ 07-02-2004: Message edited by: Varmint Hunter ]
[ 07-02-2004: Message edited by: Varmint Hunter ]
jb1000br
Official LRH Sponsor
VH--good stuff !! i let it for 24hrs-48hrs in custom barrels with no prob.
the best is probably overnight, or morning to eveniong. after 1 day it starts to sry out a little.
I have been using it since 2000 and i know the hoovers have been using it since i turned john onto it a couple years ago. Bruce Baer also has been using it for awhile.
JB
the best is probably overnight, or morning to eveniong. after 1 day it starts to sry out a little.
I have been using it since 2000 and i know the hoovers have been using it since i turned john onto it a couple years ago. Bruce Baer also has been using it for awhile.
JB
Skinny Shooter
Well-Known Member
I liked their product so much I asked to re-do all of their product shots. Here's a link to a proof photo I did for them. http://sharpshootrprecision.homestead.com/index.html
It will get a barrel so clean you may need a couple of foulers to get back to minute of prairie dog. It should be safe in a factory or custom barrel.
Doing blacksmithing as a hobby and then being told to put an abrasive in my barrel to clean it just bothers me. Some folks swear by JB and Flitz but it removes metal each time it's used. WIth Wipe-out, I only need a nylon brush for stubborn powder fouling in my 22-250 once in awhile.
Good stuff
It will get a barrel so clean you may need a couple of foulers to get back to minute of prairie dog. It should be safe in a factory or custom barrel.
Doing blacksmithing as a hobby and then being told to put an abrasive in my barrel to clean it just bothers me. Some folks swear by JB and Flitz but it removes metal each time it's used. WIth Wipe-out, I only need a nylon brush for stubborn powder fouling in my 22-250 once in awhile.
Good stuff
All you need is wipeout and a mix of shooters choice/kroil. Wet the barrel with the mix of SC/Kroil and let sit for 10 min, take 8 or 10 strokes with a wet bronze brush, patch out & squirt some wipeout in and let sit overnight. Brush again, patch dry, oil & you're done. Easy.
Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2001
- Messages
- 1,459
Sorry, didn't work for me. Too slow, didn't get all the fouling out, doesn't work with muzzle brakes.
You can't seal the end of the muzzle and you get stuff flying everywhere. foam also didn't get all the way to the chamber. Then it ran all over the place when it stopped foaming.
Personally, I just go with solvent on a patch and have at it. I did not find any problems with match barrels though.
Anyone want a partially used can???
Jerry
You can't seal the end of the muzzle and you get stuff flying everywhere. foam also didn't get all the way to the chamber. Then it ran all over the place when it stopped foaming.
Personally, I just go with solvent on a patch and have at it. I did not find any problems with match barrels though.
Anyone want a partially used can???
Jerry
G
Guest
Guest
Sure, I'll take the spare can! If you read the directions and see the attachments, you'll find that you can apply from the breech as well as the muzzle; usning the applicator tip. The whole idea is to coat the bore, and I can't think of a better way than with this foam.... Thanks to everyone for your input. Will order a case for myself.
G
Guest
Guest
marc357,
How many cans are in a case and if you don't mind me asking how much was it? Curious if you get a discount for buying a case.
TIA,
Wayne
How many cans are in a case and if you don't mind me asking how much was it? Curious if you get a discount for buying a case.
TIA,
Wayne
Another positive vote--absolutely wonderful stuff. The less my cleaning rod goes down the barrel the happier I am. My procedure is to patch out the loose crud with kroil on a patch. Put in a o-ring bore guide and shoot the wipeout from the muzzle. (the 0-ring bore guide is in case I overdo it and it keeps excess from going from the barrel to the chamber). Let sit overnite, Patch out wipout. Patch in kroil for storage.
Almost always one application is all that's necessary. Total time for 1 gun---approx 5 minutes.---IT DOESN'T GET BETTER THAN THIS GUYS!!!
Almost always one application is all that's necessary. Total time for 1 gun---approx 5 minutes.---IT DOESN'T GET BETTER THAN THIS GUYS!!!
Hi Guys,
I currently use Sweets No. 9 and Barnes copper solvent. This is pretty aggressive amonia that really takes coppoer out of the barrel. However, Barnes warnes not to leave in for more than 5 minutes before removing.
I am curious to know what the main ingredient in this new product is?
I currently use Sweets No. 9 and Barnes copper solvent. This is pretty aggressive amonia that really takes coppoer out of the barrel. However, Barnes warnes not to leave in for more than 5 minutes before removing.
I am curious to know what the main ingredient in this new product is?
Hi Guys,
I currently use Sweets No. 9 and Barnes copper solvent. This is pretty aggressive amonia that really takes coppoer out of the barrel. However, Barnes warnes not to leave in for more than 5 minutes before removing.
I am curious to know what the main ingredient in this new product is?
I currently use Sweets No. 9 and Barnes copper solvent. This is pretty aggressive amonia that really takes coppoer out of the barrel. However, Barnes warnes not to leave in for more than 5 minutes before removing.
I am curious to know what the main ingredient in this new product is?
Wayne,
There are 12 cans in a case, retail price is 12.99 per can, I believe.
I paid 120.00 for the case, but S&H was 17 bucks or something.
So I saved a couple bucks, sold 3 or 4 to some buddies, and I am still set for awhile.
I burned up a can right away, cleaned the heck out of every firearm I own.... My Taurus Raging Bull in .454 Casull? You know how the front of the cylinder on a revolver always gets that "flash burn" on the front, that never comes off all the way? Even got THAT off, looks brand new.
marc
There are 12 cans in a case, retail price is 12.99 per can, I believe.
I paid 120.00 for the case, but S&H was 17 bucks or something.
So I saved a couple bucks, sold 3 or 4 to some buddies, and I am still set for awhile.
I burned up a can right away, cleaned the heck out of every firearm I own.... My Taurus Raging Bull in .454 Casull? You know how the front of the cylinder on a revolver always gets that "flash burn" on the front, that never comes off all the way? Even got THAT off, looks brand new.
marc
G
Guest
Guest
marc357,
Thanks for the info.
Wayne
Thanks for the info.
Wayne
