Anyone making 6.5 Lap brass from .22-250?

[Jon2]

Dear all

I have heard it is possible to make 6.5 x 47 Lap brass from .22-250 brass.

Is anyone out there doing it? If so what is involved and also any up or downsides to using the converted cases?

I know the Lap has a small primer and the 250 has a large one but I believe it is doable?

Any info greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Kevin Thomas]

Jon2,

Yes, it's most certainly possible, but I'd have to as "why"? Unless you have a massive supply of free 22-250 grass available to you, it's something of a waste of time. That, and the fact that in using the Large Primers, you'll need to rework the loads from the ground up. For the most part, case reforming is something that ocassionally must be done, but usually out of some reason of necessity. Done a lot of it over the years, and if there's the availability of a given factory case out there, that's the route I'll choose. Just built a 300 Blackout, and have a ton of 5.56mm brass that I could use to reform, but in the end, I'm sure I'll just be buying straight 300 AAC Blackout brass and going from there.

 

[Jon2]

Many thanks for the reply Kevin.

Yes it is because I have a fair amount of .22-250 brass lying around and so seemed sensible (potentially) to try and use it.

What would you need equipement wise in order to convert the brass?

Thanks

Jon

 

[Kevin Thomas]

As reforming ops go, this one's actually pretty straight-forward. I'd recomend a tapered expander, or better yet, a tapered mandral to open them up to 6.5mm, and then a full length resizing die to set the shoulder. I'd have to look at the specifics here, but you'll want to set the headspace in such a way to prevent the case from stretching too far upon firing. That may involve the shoulder, or headspacing off the ogive of the bullet, but you need to keep the case from moving too far forward for firing. Beyond that, this is a pretty simple fireforming operation. Just remember to keep your loads down a bit from the published (small primer) data, and work them up slowly. Watch your pressure signs, and adjust accordingly.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

As reforming ops go, this one's actually pretty straight-forward. I'd recomend a tapered expander, or better yet, a tapered mandral to open them up to 6.5mm, and then a full length resizing die to set the shoulder. I'd have to look at the specifics here, but you'll want to set the headspace in such a way to prevent the case from stretching too far upon firing. That may involve the shoulder, or headspacing off the ogive of the bullet, but you need to keep the case from moving too far forward for firing. Beyond that, this is a pretty simple fireforming operation. Just remember to keep your loads down a bit from the published (small primer) data, and work them up slowly. Watch your pressure signs, and adjust accordingly.

+1
Exactly what I do for the 375h&h to 7mm stw conversion or my 7mag to 338 win conversion. An intermediate step at 6mm( half way to the final diameter) should work if you have either 6mm rem or 243 die.
Keven is correct on the tapered expander or mandrel also. Either will help a lot.

 

[Jon2]

Many thanks both.

 

[CliffM]

I have been looking into doing the opposite- reforming 6.5x47 brass to 250 AI to get better quality brass and less change in the brass when fireforming.

Moving the brass that much (from 22-250 to 6.4x47) to be on the safe side I would anneal the brass first to avoid splitting it.
Cliff